Rust... (1 Viewer)

[Mile2885]

How do most handle this? It's obviously pitted but would the best way be to cut/ replace? Im assuming id have terrible oil canning. Could sandblast but it's only 18ga. Find new hood? It's currently ground down and has Ospho on it. Thoughts appreciated in advance.

 

[macdaddy59]

I would sandblast to see how much metal rust and metal loss there was. Once i determined that I would make up a plan to fix it. If it is bad welding in a new piece is best. If it is minor epoxy paint and some very light bondo.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

So where is the rust?

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Here's a small patch that I had on the rear of my 40.

 

[Mile2885]

Here's a small patch that I had on the rear of my 40.

View attachment 2639775

Yep! I have that too. Pictures are of the hood sides. I was going to be a smartass and post my OEM Toyota floor pans on the classifieds. Can ship in a standard envelope.

 

[1969FJ]

New hood if money is not a really big deal. Cut and patch if you like the challenge and the savings, maybe .

 

[Kleatus]

Just start cutting they said..

 

[Mile2885]

Just start cutting they said..
View attachment 2639878

That's deep! I find I'll sit and stare at it when in reality, getting out the grinder and cutting gets it done.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Show us your rust (lol)

My rear sill before and after;

 

[Mile2885]

Initial pictures I posted were on the hood. It may be easier to just find a different hood. I've been dealing with more pressing issues and doing floor pans. One down, one to go. Then on to sides and rear. Not sure it'll ever end.

 

[Kleatus]

@Mile2885 you can do it! Just takes time! Here is the "updated" version of my photo above.

 

[Alec condil]

What size are those BFGs? And how do you like them ?

 

[Mile2885]

What size are those BFGs? And how do you like them ?

They are 33x10.5 x15. I wanted to run 34x10.5x15 swampers but realistically, this probably won't get wheeled hard...if ever gets to the point where it can leave the garage. The ATs are the safe choice. I run them on my truck and they have been great. Winter rated too.

 

[Alec condil]

They look great. I have stock springs so I was thinking about 31s. I don’t think they make them in 9.5 anymore though. I always like the tall skinny tire look. Yeah after all this body work it would be kinda stupid to beat up the body

 

[Living in the Past]

Show us your rust (lol)

My rear sill before and after;

View attachment 2639949
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Curious how you put the rear sill together? Appears to be a 68 or early 69. Have a 68 which luckily has a solid rear sill. When someone asked about the original rear sill a few years back. It was the first time I actually took a serious look at how the back was put together. The floor continued all the way back and half down the the sill. Then a U shaped channel sandwiched the floor with the rear sill on the front side. The OEM rear sill is offset half way down to allow space floor. This offset is why you see a rust line across the middle where water/salt/dirt collected then rusted thru to the back. The 90° turn at the back of the floor helped make the floor rigid. But because the sill and floor only have a few tack welds where they mean it allowed moisture get thru and collect half way down the sill. Just glad I'm Arizona where solid sill can still be found.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Curious how you put the rear sill together? Appears to be a 68 or early 69. Have a 68 which luckily has a solid rear sill. When someone asked about the original rear sill a few years back. It was the first time I actually took a serious look at how the back was put together. The floor continued all the way back and half down the the sill. Then a U shaped channel sandwiched the floor with the rear sill on the front side. The OEM rear sill is offset half way down to allow space floor. This offset is why you see a rust line across the middle where water/salt/dirt collected then rusted thru to the back. The 90° turn at the back of the floor helped make the floor rigid. But because the sill and floor only have a few tack welds where they mean it allowed moisture get thru and collect half way down the sill. Just glad I'm Arizona where solid sill can still be found.

This is an early 68 from SW (Hobbs) New Mexico, I bought it there in 1992. The sill rust started to bubble through in about 1996 and got progressively worse when It sat for almost 2 decades because of a blown engine. I had actually bought the ‘U’ channel and the rear sill sheet metal from a Toyota Overstock ad I had seen in a off-road magazine in like 1998 (way before internet). When we cleaned it out in 2017 to start the restoration, those pieces were in the original box in the back of the rig....so the replacement sheet metal is very much OEM.

Being an original New Mexico rig, dry like Arizona....the rear sill was the only rust....and I had assumed the corrosion was based more on the high sulfur fuels used back in the 60’s and early 70’s....not so much road salt. Anyway, the finished sill came out very well with the only detail missed .... the seam line(s) at each end of the sill...we butt welded to the original body and ground smooth.

 

[Living in the Past]

This is an early 68 from SW (Hobbs) New Mexico, I bought it there in 1992. The sill rust started to bubble through in about 1996 and got progressively worse when It sat for almost 2 decades because of a blown engine. I had actually bought the ‘U’ channel and the rear sill sheet metal from a Toyota Overstock ad I had seen in a off-road magazine in like 1998 (way before internet). When we cleaned it out in 2017 to start the restoration, those pieces were in the original box in the back of the rig....so the replacement sheet metal is very much OEM.

Being an original New Mexico rig, dry like Arizona....the rear sill was the only rust....and I had assumed the corrosion was based more on the high sulfur fuels used back in the 60’s and early 70’s....not so much road salt. Anyway, the finished sill came out very well with the only detail missed .... the seam line(s) at each end of the sill...we butt welded to the original body and ground smooth.

Sounds like you lucked out getting an OEM rear sill. Have three early FJ40s sitting in a row with badly rusted rear sill. One has the best floor I have ever seen. Next it a 82 that has rust in multiple areas including the rear sill. 82 is probably the only one I might tackle repairing. But I do have others besides my 68 with an intact rear sill. One thing I have noticed is an auxiliary fuel tank actually help protect the seam for the front edge of the rear sill. Three of my intact rear sill had auxiliary fuel tanks. Another thing is while people complain about the light gauge 79+ tub it did do away with the box section behind the front seats. That is another complicated section to try and reproduce how Toyota put the tub together. Redesigned rear sill is a superior design than previous years which what allowed the use of lighter metal. Being the Southwest I prefer the better design as rust is not much of a issue if you maintain the underneath.

 

[Mile2885]

Yep! I have that too. Pictures are of the hood sides. I was going to be a smartass and post my OEM Toyota floor pans on the classifieds. Can ship in a standard envelope. View attachment 2639832

View attachment 2640098Initial pictures I posted were on the hood. It may be easier to just find a different hood. I've been dealing with more pressing issues and doing floor pans. One down, one to go. Then on to sides and rear. Not sure it'll ever end.

View attachment 2640099

View attachment 2640100

 

[Mile2885]

View attachment 2645132

Amazing how much faster repairs go when the part fits correctly. the driver side floor pan was night and day easier than the passenger side as far as fit. Who knows why.

 

[Mile2885]

Well, still a piece of crap but slowly becoming less rusty. The little "ears" on the 79 panels were a treat. Also fun having panels 1/4" off. I've read other's have had the same issue.