RTH - Timing Cover Install (non-FSM method…)

[mathlete]

Making a new thread to hopefully get some more people to chime in. For some background on how I got here, check this thread.

Long story short, yesterday I removed the upper oil pan in hopes that I would find the paint marker tip that fell down my timing cover. Unfortunately, it was not in there. This morning I removed the front timing cover (with the head still on) and viola, the little guy popped out.

My question now is about re-installation. I understand that this is not the FSM approved method, but I do believe the job can still be done “well”. How would you go about re-installation? In the FSM, it does specify to apply FIPG under the HG on the portion where the head meets the timing cover. I think this is my biggest issue to overcome with the situation I’m in.

I see one option where I remove all 4 studs (water pump and power steering pump) and the oil pump which is currently attached to the timing cover. That way I can apply FIPG to the top of the timing cover and push “up” slightly on reinstallation, but this would mean the FIPG elsewhere would kind of smear as well.

Looking for some advice, if you have any. In the meantime I’ll be cleaning the timing cover gasket surfaces. Thanks for reading

 

[mathlete]

Well after some more digging, I found a comment from fj80oregon describing exactly what I needed to do for the removal. Unfortunately, I skipped the steps of removing the studs /oil pump and pulled straight out along the studs. The very front portion of the head gasket took a bit of damage during removal. By damage, I mean some of the gasket material was dragged forward if that makes sense? Not bent, kinked, or anything like that.

To remedy this as best I can, I should probably do as I described above for installation, especially after roughing up the gasket a bit. Should be able to get it on tomorrow.

 

[mathlete]

Got everything ready to go for installing the timing cover. Aligning things without the studs felt impossible after a few dry runs, so I put the studs back in. With the timing cover on the studs, there was a slight gap between the block and the timing cover. This was another dry run to make sure things are in line properly. Here is the gap I'm seeing.

Is this what should be happening? There is no FIPG nor bolts tightened down in these pictures. Does the addition of FIPG and tightening down all the bolts/nuts bring the two fully together? If this is not what's supposed to be happening, what exactly could I be missing? The only thing I can think of is the underside of the head gasket - the area circled at the seam seems like FIPG and it might be creating a bump where the timing cover can't fully seat.

If anyone has gone down this path for timing cover removal/install, let me know if you have any wisdom. Thanks

 

[mathlete]

Turns out all it needed was a few taps from a rubber mallet to fully seat

When to use force vs. when not to use force…still lost on me apparently. Got everything on, FIPG, 2 orings, then proceeded to snap a timing cover bolt while torquing. Got lucky and could use vice grips on the remainder of the bolt threads to get it off. Hopefully the dealership has the bolt in stock tomorrow. I will also put a little FIPG on the top of the timing cover; feels like the right thing to do. I’ve successfully answered my initial question - I was overthinking it.