ROTW: Brokenparts FJ-60

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hmmm sorry I assumed it may be the torque sequence on the rock rings but if it has an o-ring and you are not getting a seal then I would look there first. (well duh for me)

also I have never dealt with these wheels before but do they need the same rapid volume initial hit with the air to "seat" or not so much because of the seal/ o-ring design?

clint
 
have you trimmed the run flats?

your new tires probably have thicker side wall then what the run flat was made to deal with.

just a guess?

mcmastercarr has an o ring to replacement
 
the two halves of the wheels... they bolt together with an o-ring. the only thing I can think of is that the o-ring didnt seat properly when I bolted the two halves together?

Did you use a sealant or silicone on the o-ring? From my experience, lube or silicone can actually cause a leak. Did you clean the 2 mating surfaces as well as the o-ring? Any cuts in the o-ring?

My guess is the o-ring slid out of it's seat and caused the leak.
 
Wheel bearing grease on the orings
 
After torquing the nuts, what was your gap where the front half meets the back half? On mine, I never used a torque wrench. Theres a spec floating around that says you are supposed to tighten until there is a few thousandths gap but I always just run them down tight.

Also just a tip, when tightening and removing the nuts, take your time and do it in a criss-cross pattern as long as the nut is in contact with the outer half. I killed a ton of studs on my first set of H1s because I just ran them out 1 at a time. It seems to put excessive strain on the rest of the studs and causes them to strip or even round out the splines on the press fit. I always put them together with a ratchet and socket as the impact goes too quick on each nut.
 
After torquing the nuts, what was your gap where the front half meets the back half? On mine, I never used a torque wrench. Theres a spec floating around that says you are supposed to tighten until there is a few thousandths gap but I always just run them down tight.

Also just a tip, when tightening and removing the nuts, take your time and do it in a criss-cross pattern as long as the nut is in contact with the outer half. I killed a ton of studs on my first set of H1s because I just ran them out 1 at a time. It seems to put excessive strain on the rest of the studs and causes them to strip or even round out the splines on the press fit. I always put them together with a ratchet and socket as the impact goes too quick on each nut.

yep... I learned that stud lesson my first time cranking down on one of the studs (didnt use an impact). I ended up just using a grade 8 bolt while I wait for a new stud. I was pretty good about following the tightening sequence except for the beginning where is was necessary to tighten one side enough to get the studs to poke through on the other side wheel studs... more than likely that is what is causing this. I ddint use a feeler gauge but I did run the two halves together until they met which was right about 65 pounds. I used the bucket trick but I still could only get one side of the wheel to get the studs to poke through.

I'll try again tonight and use a little more patience, follow the tighten sequence to a "t", torque them dowm to more like 80ilbs, use something different for the 0-rings like lithum grease, and clean the wheels properly.
 
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ok... I need to pull the trigger on the coilovers. Here's what I am figure. 1200 total weight on each of the two front corners (taken from "how much does your 60 weigh thread') minus the tire/wheel (175ish) minus half of the d60 (250ish) which leaves me with about 800 pounds of sprung weight on the corners... here's what I put into the FOA calculator:

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Does 250/400 seem reasonable for my spring rates with medium valving?
 
Sat. progress:

Got the th-400 buttoned up... lining up the clutches to get the different clutch assemblies to seat properly was probably the most difficult thing of the whole process:

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Got the shift kit installed. I went for the "street" shift which is supposed to be the most firm. I hope that it doesnt end up breaking my teeth when it shifts:

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Primed:

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Painted:

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My little girl approves...

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I got two more wheels/tires together too. Still waiting on the new o-ring for the 4th wheel.

I'm hoping to start digging into the 203/205 tomorrow.
 
Since you already have the range box split, the cases should go pretty easily.

Lookin good.

Hope so... I have to replace the input on the the 205 to the short one and I ugraded the front ouput to the 32 spline too. I'll have to pull it apart too. Didn have a whole lot of time today like I hoped but...

Carnage:

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little more progress with swapping some of the 205 stuff.

Case:

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Tear down:

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front output out:

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old vs new 32 spline:

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Rear tailshaft assembly

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this needed to come out

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off:

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I remembered to account for the fatty needle bearings (15)

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apart:

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Removed the shift rail pins:

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then frustration set in... I could not get the shift rail out. Before I knew it and had the BFH out and started pounding on it. Still nothing. I decided to take a break and quit pounding on it and see if there was a better solution to getting it out.
 
who thats alot of work ... lookin good keep the pics comin
 
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