Rookie Rust Removal by a Rookie

[CoolPrius]

Hey ye old legends!

Since dipping my toe into amateur car maintenance after a successful albeit messy as hell AHC flush, I'm now itching to do something else.

Currently plan while the wife is distracted with what's going on in the world, is to try my hand at rust removal and repainting the underbody. The last time I removed any rust from my life was when I chucked out an old screw I found on the lawn. This is hopefully going to be straight forward but I figured I'd bring you all along for a ride.

Really no idea what I need for the job???

Picked up some ramps...and honestly think this is the wildest the LX has been....ever.

Currrent rough plan is to first tap with a hammer, then wire brush off everything I can see? Then prime?.....And finally flat black rattle can it?

 

[Mogwai]

Look into rust converter, you can basically paint it on, wait until it's done it's thing, and re-paint. I think you can then skip the removal of rust. If your rust was really bad you might not want to skip that part, but yours looks really good! From there you just touch up any new rust as it forms w/ the converter solution and paint as needed. COVER YOUR FACE AND EYES! it will drip... down on you.

 

[Sandroad]

Great you're getting after it before you really have any. That's very clean! I use a rust converter followed by top coat and then Fluid Film in the places I can't see or paint. Don't paint the exhaust or the propeller shafts and remove the front engine undercover to get at the rust under there. As @Mogwai wrote, protect yourself with hat, long sleeves, goggles, gloves and dust mask. It's a messy, messy operation so protect your driveway too.

 

[CoolPrius]

Great you're getting after it before you really have any. That's very clean! I use a rust converter followed by top coat and then Fluid Film in the places I can't see or paint. Don't paint the exhaust or the propeller shafts and remove the front engine undercover to get at the rust under there. As @Mogwai wrote, protect yourself with hat, long sleeves, goggles, gloves and dust mask. It's a messy, messy operation so protect your driveway too.

View attachment 2330747

Lol...was half distracted when reading your response and thought you were suggesting to wear ladies overalls...

Thanks for the quick replies guys. 3 quick questions:

- Can I use Rust converter (no follow up paint) on the Propeller shafts?

- If I was to use a wire brush tool (I kinda want to do a tip top ocd type job)...is buying a Dremel w/ wire brush attachments overkill?

- Is Fluid Film kinda like one of those bad undercoatings...that may trap moisture? Or maybe google took me down a dark road...

Current plan: Powerwash & clean, then Dremel wire brush, then rust converter, then primer, then paint.

Cheers!

 

[KLF]

Wire brush in a Dremel? You'll be under there for days, your neighbors will hate you, you'll go deaf, and you'll burn through dozens of those tiny wire brush bits. Actually, the Dremel will burn out before you get that far.

That really doesn't look very bad to me, but you are right to get on it BEFORE it is bad. I would just give it a quick once over with a wire brush, some of that Rust Converter primer, then cover it with good ol' Rustoleum Satin Black. Let it dry for a couple days, THEN go crazy with the Fluid Film (or get a better product that lasts longer).

 

[Sandroad]

I suggest nothing on the prop shafts. Balance is key for those and drippy dried paint might lead to vibration.

No to Dremel, @KLF is right on. Just a hand wire brush is fine for what I see on your truck and the rust converter will look like new on there.

Fluid film is not one of the bad coatings because it does not cure hard and trap water. The only problem is that it's very messy and will have a lanolin (not oil) smell for a few days. I use it only on places I can't see like into the holes of the gas tank skid plate, etc. I'm pretty careful to keep it on metal. Others spray more liberally, even with bulk containers and spray guns. Some complain it's messy when you want to remove parts, but it's a LOT better than dealing with rust.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

@CoolPrius If you want a non-rusted transfer case shield cage, I've got 4 or 5 of the those things around the shop

 

[creekcruiser]

I have had great luck with a wire cup brush that attaches to any drill with adjustable chuck. Tons of different brand and stiffness options to choose from but here's and example: wire cup brush at home depot

 

[CoolPrius]

@CoolPrius If you want a non-rusted transfer case shield cage, I've got 4 or 5 of the those things around the shop
[/QUOTE

Just spent the last 20 minutes trying to figure out what part that was lol. Sounds awesome, I love a good recycling! Its going to cost a pretty penny to get it though so sadly don't think it will work out but THANK you for the offer. Those things may come in handy for a post apocalypse scenario as a face shield!

 

[CoolPrius]

I have had great luck with a wire cup brush that attaches to any drill with adjustable chuck. Tons of different brand and stiffness options to choose from but here's and example: wire cup brush at home depot

Done thanks! I'll try and grab one today. Might try it on the wife's rough feet too...

 

[Mogwai]

Honestly I'd bag on the fluid film, doesn't last long enough for the mess and effort and it doesn't look like you live in an area you need it. Just touch up regularly with the process you've listed above on Amy new rust spots. I'll try and get some pics ofy 2013 later, I've done this once since I've owned it the past 5 years, but it's time to do it again me think.