Hey guys be forewarned for the guys who have the Rival Skid Plate system on their LC200, the oil drain hole is NOT big enough for oil to flow naturally out! Learned this the hard way today. Whole role of shop towels and 4 cans of brakleen later it’s cleaned up!!
!Rival Skid Plate Warning!
- Thread starter zeebrax
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You need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNBWGG14?tag=ihco-20
lots of different versions of this.
- Thread starter
- #4
Yeaaaaa already thought about that for next time! That one’s cool! I like that better then those little petcock valve ones.
- Thread starter
- #6
Yeaaaa I usually do but ran out. I’m trash at doing a clean oil change. Haha
@kcjaz This is awesome, never thought of this. This link you shared is specifically for the M12 x 1.25 size. Is that the size I would need to order? Thanks!
Yes. Fits pretty much all Toyotas. Installing another on my Taco today.
@TheIcemanCometh is this the specific model you use?
Yes, I have that size on my LC and Tacoma. I have different size on the Jowett filter housing.@TheIcemanCometh is this the specific model you use?
Sorry, I am not familiar with the Jowett filter housing. Do I need that as well? Or can I just get by with ordering the Stahlbus M12 x 1.25 x 12mm option that I linked above? Do you have to replace seals with this Stahlbus option as well? Thanks!
We are dealing with two drain points:
1) the main drain plug, the topic of discussion in this thread. A few products mentioned here could help
2) the filter housing drain, Jowett filter housing included a fumoto valve to make it easier. But you can forget it as I've yet to see any sign of availability for "Jowett filter housing". The filter housing drain is also more controllable (you can still make a mess). Either using the supplied plastic part, or something like Amazon.com: Motivx Tools Oil Filter Drain Tool Compatible with Toyota, Lexus and Scion Vehicles with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087QQW3S8?ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_KYXZHCC60D8F9YVHQ1FH&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_KYXZHCC60D8F9YVHQ1FH&social_share=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_KYXZHCC60D8F9YVHQ1FH (note there is a kit including the filter wrench Amazon.com: Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench, Drain Tool, and Advanced Engine Oil Funnel Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines With Cartridge Style Systems : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791MWXDC?ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_FQ3FZNVB4H7QE9V84V0H&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_FQ3FZNVB4H7QE9V84V0H&social_share=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_FQ3FZNVB4H7QE9V84V0H)
When changing the oil one needs to drain the oil from both the oil pan and oil filter housing. Some of us have replaced the oil filter housing with the Jowett version which is all aluminum. But as noted not being made. When draining it one gets about a 1/2 - 3/4 quart of oil. I have a drain kit there as well as for the oil pan. As noted above for the oil filter housing one can use the mfg part or a thirdparty. The mfg is a PITA.
Any flexible funnel will let you control where the oil goes. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D12JMTGS?tag=ihco-20
@TheIcemanCometh So I did my first oil change on my 2016 Cruiser (133k miles) and installed the Stahlbus using the provided washer and torqued to the recommended 18 ft/lbs. however, it looks like I’m getting a minor oil leak from where I installed the Stahlbus. I’m wondering if the washer they provided wasn’t the correct one? As it looked different than the OEM one. It was a little difficult removing the OEM drain plug (some minor cross threading it seems like) but I’m not sure what is causing this minor leak. Any suggestions? I was thinking worse case scenario replacing the Stahlbus with the OEM bolt and getting a new OEM washer again
Hmmm, the OEM plug probably had a rubber washer. Not uncommon. The Stahlbus comes with a copper crush washer. Which is common as it deforms when torqued.
The mention of some possible cross threading is disconcerting. If not for that I would say torque slightly more. I say that because the Stahlbus recommended max torque is 18 ft-lbs. Whereas for the normal drain plug is 30 ft-lbs. I would double check the initial torquing to make sure it correct. And if you feel comfortable bump the torque to 20 ft-lbs.
The mention of some possible cross threading is disconcerting. If not for that I would say torque slightly more. I say that because the Stahlbus recommended max torque is 18 ft-lbs. Whereas for the normal drain plug is 30 ft-lbs. I would double check the initial torquing to make sure it correct. And if you feel comfortable bump the torque to 20 ft-lbs.