Resealing the Evaporator Cover

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When resealing, would it be a good time to foam the evaporator through the filter slot instead the drain hose under the car?
 
Bump this thread. I just finished the repair, replacing the gasket with OEM new gasket. Main, what a PITA getting the cover completely off, but worth the effort as the drip is gone.
 
Russ Mullen said:
Bump this thread. I just finished the repair, replacing the gasket with OEM new gasket. Main, what a PITA getting the cover completely off, but worth the effort as the drip is gone.
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Oh yeah, it takes some brute force to squeeze out from below. I've said it before, I do not believe the engineers gave too much mind to mechanics down the line. lol
 
Hey All, hoping for a bit of help here. Same issue with the bracket, however, even with it peeled back with some pliers, it doesn’t want to come out. What am I doing wrong?
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Cyevergreen said:
Hey All, hoping for a bit of help here. Same issue with the bracket, however, even with it peeled back with some pliers, it doesn’t want to come out. What am I doing wrong?
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All screws removed, and electrical connections? If so it’s a very tight squeeze pulling it down. You might have to pull out a bit on that lower member the glovebox screws to. What’s that foam piece in front of the cover? Anyways, pop the cover loose, and wiggle out downwards.
 
There's a screw/bolt hidden under the carpet. Another thread here on mud for the same topic has pictures of it You can search and you'll probably find it.
 
Lonegrasshopper said:
All screws removed, and electrical connections? If so it’s a very tight squeeze pulling it down. You might have to pull out a bit on that lower member the glovebox screws to. What’s that foam piece in front of the cover? Anyways, pop the cover loose, and wiggle out downwards.
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Got it yesterday. Woof, that is a tight squeeze.
 
I really love the Mud hive mind - there is almost always information on issues/things I'm facing. Just did the cabin air filter retrofit this week (removing old cover and installing new panel with door was a major PITA as others have mentioned).

Just remembered my wife complains about the AC drip sometimes and found this thread. Might need to try the "redneck fix" mentioned a few posts earlier with silicone, as I do NOT want to have to remove that panel door for a second time! :)
 
Replace the screws with slightly oversize stainless screws. The original screws are screwed into plastic. If they have been taken out before, they just won't grip well anymore. Fresh oversize screws will grab and pull the cover nice and tight.
 
Just a note to anyone reading this thread that if you are doing this fix, it is a good time to actually retrofit the Toyota Cooler Cover with a Lexus Cover with a door and add Air Filters. It appears Toyota did not include cabin air filters in the Toyota 100 series Land Cruisers but did put them into their Lexus LX470's. Order OEM PN
OEM Cooler Cover, No. 1 PN 88891-60040 (cost $45 on Amazon).
Denso filter set of 2 PN 453-1001 (cost $21 on Amazon). Note the Toyota PN is 88568-60010 but costs more. Note there are 2 filters and they stack one on top of the other so as to reduce the door size. Both filters are included in the Denso PN.
When I installed the Cooler Cover No. 1, I found I also needed a cap or door that clicks in over the rectangular filter insertion hole. Order Lexus OEM Cabin Filter AC Filter Cover 88891-30680 (cost $11.99). Chowcares link shows OEM PN 88891-60060 (cost $33.91).
Here are some links I found helpful:
•LX470 Cabin Air Filter Replacement DIY (Mar 2005) Tabraha
•LX470 Cabin Air Filter Replacement DIY - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx470-cabin-air-filter-replacement-diy.39995/
•Chowcares – Adding cabin air filter to Land Cruiser 100 series (Lexus LX470) best
•
•YotaMD Land Cruiser Cabin Air Filter Retrofit –
•
 
That 3M Strip Calk mentioned earlier in the thread works great. I did mine with it several years ago. No issues.
 
I paid for the Toyota packing and three years later it’s dripping again. I’m going to try the screen spline.
 
Argonaut54 said:
Wondering what dim/ size spline you used? Attempting to do this as well. I tried to seal with roofers caulk but it was a mess.. i'd rather try the spline approach.
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This worked great with no leaks on my long summer trip.

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Anyone have the drain gasket in the floorboard dissappear? (Mine seems to have disappeared, no sign of it on the engine bay side per pictures I have seen. Will that be a problem with condensate leaking down the floor boards on the inside instead of outside? (I have the seal leak at the “gasket” on the cover. I used some sealant to seal that up as I didn’t have a screen door gasket on hand. (May be buying the above gasket to try that.)
 
oldmxdog61u said:
Anyone have the drain gasket in the floorboard dissappear? (Mine seems to have disappeared, no sign of it on the engine bay side per pictures I have seen. Will that be a problem with condensate leaking down the floor boards on the inside instead of outside? (I have the seal leak at the “gasket” on the cover. I used some sealant to seal that up as I didn’t have a screen door gasket on hand. (May be buying the above gasket to try that.)
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Could you be talking about this floorboard hole cover?

CruiserPatch.com

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