Trust me, you don't want to use an EZ out on this. It will just break off inside and then you are really screwed. Either weld a nut on it which will get it out or just drill a new hole in the same spot the best you can and tap it.
Replacing EGR Pipe Gasket
- Thread starter Racer65
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Trust me, you don't want to use an EZ out on this. It will just break off inside and then you are really screwed. Either weld a nut on it which will get it out or just drill a new hole in the same spot the best you can and tap it.
Copy thanks I'll just drill it and tap
I can't get a drill or tap up in it
That is why my original advice was to just remove the whole manifold. You can always use a new manifold gasket too and it isn't much more work considering that you can remove the broken stud and replace with new on the bench.
The bolts that hold the cooler on are the two larger bolts on the side?
- Thread starter
- #26
Yes. Use a good 12 point socket. You don't want to strip the bolts.
- Thread starter
- #27
I looked into that route, but taking the manifold off of a California emission controlled 1980 truck would have been too time consuming. You need to take out the air cleaner assembly, the carburetor and document where all the vacuum lines go before you can even turn the first nut on the manifold. Some the nuts on the rear side of the manifold are difficult to access . I decided it would be another project for another day.
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- #28
Just thread the stud in as far as it goes. Then I put 2 lock washers + 1 more flat washer, and then the bolt goes on against the flat washer. As you turn the bolt in, eventually the first washer will press against the bottom of the pipe flange to seal the joint. Mission accomplished.
Ah now I understand. I put it on with one bolt for the time being. I can see some smoke coming out the side not tightened down. I don't want to or have time to replace the manifold gasket, to lazy this weekend. I only drive the car on the weekend no more than 10 miles there and back so it should survive for a bit
What you have now is what you started with, an exhaust leak, so you could have saved a lot of time and effort by not bothering with it. It is not a slam on you, but rather a caution for others who want a quick fix for this problem.
it leaked prior, just not as bad, so not a big deal. I'm going to pull the manifold tomorrow and change that gasket while I'm at it. I'm sure it needs it as well. Thanks for all the pointers, the experience is worth it.
i don't think mine will go in at all. the bolt snapped right at the line where it enters the manifold. I tried to do some research and throw some Red gasket or something like that on it. I heard it was much to hot but not sure. What do you think? The one side sealed up nice, obviously because of the nut still working, the other side is what it is. I've got a Cali warrior as well, looks like a hornets nest of vacuum lines.
- Thread starter
- #33
No, mine doesn't leak at all. I suppose I was lucky in that the stud snapped quite deep into the hole. The new stud went 80% of the way in. As long as both nuts tighten against the flange (one side via the washers), the same result is achieved.
Oh well, glad yours worked out, I'm up for the challenge and I'm sure the engine needs some work
just busted three of the lines from the air injection manifold! dang it! that's going to cost me no less than $200. All the rusted bolts came out clean, the ones that looked fine broke like peanut brittle. The wife is not happy. Land Bruiser is going to be down for a while now, dang it.
- Thread starter
- #36
What do you mean by busted the lines? Can you show a photo?
You know that's why I try not to expand the scope of work if I can get away with it...
You know that's why I try not to expand the scope of work if I can get away with it...
Those air injection nuts can be a doozy. If they had never been off since the car was new, they were likely not going to come off in one piece now.
Rusty bolts or nuts should not be wrenched until PB Blaster, Kroil or WD-40 Specialist Rust Release Penentrant Spray has soaked on it.. sometimes over night. Lightly tapping the stuck part after it's been sprayed with a hammer helps break free the rust too.
As for the air injection manifold fittings.. they should have been soaked for 2 days... and tapped periodically with a hammer during that time. Spending 30 minutes to slowly finesse a single rusty bolt or nut out is not unheard of.
After the penetrant has soaked in well, very carefully turn the bolt (or nut) until it just barely perceptibly loosens. Then screw it back in the same amount, then back out a tiny turn, then back in.... etc. etc. Slowly work it back and forth, a tiny bit at a time to loosen the rust binding the threads. This allows the penetrant to migrate farther down the threads into the rust. Keep it wet with the stuff. Be patient. Don't let it get hot from the friction. Stop for a while after getting it to budge a bit for the penetrant to do it's thing. Most rusty bolts can be backed out if care and patience is used. Some guys use heat too.
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