Repair Stihl Chainsaw Oil Pump (3 Viewers)

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It means I cannot access the fuel tank. I need to change the fuel line but cannot get to the other end of the line/lines to change them. Like I said, I did remove the starter side cover but see no hint of a way to get to the inside of the saw where it seems the fuel tank must be.


I consider myself somewhat mechanically inclined, but I am lost on this saw.

Thanks for any help you can provide. on this Stihl 028 WB.
 
You reach into the tank and grab the fuel line at the filter with a pair of needle nose pliers. You pull the end of the hose out past the cap and remove the filter.

For the other end, you remove the air filter and grab the fuel line where it comes out of the tank below the carburetor. Gently pull it up towards the carburetor. Remove the end from the carburetor.

Unless you have a small pair of needle nose pliers with a slight bend at the tip, it may be easier to remove the carburetor.

Once you have the new fuel line, it is fed through the fuel tank hole from the carburetor side into the fuel tank. Apply some slick stuff at the formed gromment before you try to get it seated in the hole. WD 40, press fluid, 3-1 oil or simple 2 cycle mix will work. Once the fuel line is in the tank, ressit the temptation to push the grommet into the hole. Instead, grab the hose from inside the fuel tank as close to the grommet area as you can and give a constant tug on it with low steady pressure until the grommet is seated in the tank housing. Plug the other end into the carburetor and put the air filter back on.

Allow 5 - 7 minutes time to replace the line.
 
039?

I'm a new troll, out from under the bridge... It seems I'm the only guy here with a 039 model. I've had this thing for over ten years of reliable service, and I've worked it hard if not every day (3rd bar, lost count of chains). The chain oiling has quit. I've taken it apart and looked at the nylon drive gear-that looks good with no damage. Even after cleaning the metal gear on the pump seems to bind a lot when I try to turn it with my finger or the nylon gear. Isn't it supposed to rotate freely both directions? After all was reassembled I cranked it with the blade off and some oil came out but not any kind of regular flow, just intermittant surges. Everything in the tank looks clean. Some oil does seem to be coming from the bottom of the saw case and clutch area. Any ideas? I even tried adding clean motor oil to see if the detergent would held clean out the lines/passages.
 
...also, when I had the pump out to clean/check found it already was adjusted for max oiling.

Talked to the only dealer in the area (re: parts & prices)...not sure of their abilities. He said to use an impact driver to remove the clutch. He also said to use the cord in the park plug hole when I asked about a piston stop tool. "Our guys do that all the time and never have any problems..."

I did use the cord method, but pulled the muffler off first to ensure the cord was clear of the exhaust port.
 
The 029 and 039 use the same oil pump and the same design.

If you use impact driver, you better plan on buying a new flywheel and/or a clutch spider. The risk is yours to take.

It sounds like you have a bur on the threads of the oiler gear or your pump is bad. The gear should roll smoothly through the entire revolution. If it is getting hung up, the inner bore of the pump has a groove in it from a piece of debris being wedged between the pump piston and the pump housing.
 
Stihl 028 saw oil problem

I also have a 028. Evidently the chain brake grabbed the drum and made enough heat to melt the plastic gears and cover.
Would this hurt the bearing and oil seal on the crank shaft?
I have the replacement brake band, clutch, drum, gears and cover. Are the bearing and oil seal difficult to replace?
Is there a website with the manual showing the replacement process?:)
 
is this from my Stihl 029 chain oiler?

I removed my chain oiler on my Stihl 029, and managed to get it working now. However, once it was all back together, I was cleaning up tools and saw this washer on the bench. I don't recall seeing it during the disassembly, but I'm not sure where else it could have come from. Anyone recognize this? It's 3/8ths in OD
washer.jpg
 
Stihl 028 WB issues

I have an older 028 Wb that runs great and idles down fine until it gets hot. Once hot it does not like to run at idle speed. It will die if it gets below a certain RPM and will not idle at all. I can get it running again by choking it. Then once running, it will stay running if high RPMs are maintained, but if it slows to idle it dies and is very difficult to restart. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.
 
Sounds like your fuel filter may be plugged or your tank vent is going bad.

Here is the tank vent part number and what it should look like. If yours is yellow or brown, it is going bad.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

image-246394143.jpg
 
DAnimal,

I appreciate you weighing in. I have done a lot of reading on this blog and your advice is great! Thanks again.

How do I get to the tank vent?

Also, I have the 028WB that did not come with a chain brake. I found the band on ebay and bought it thinking that a previous owner removed the brake and band. Now I believe my saw was the option sold without the brake. Can I retrofit my current saw - or will in need a new clutch drum and work sprocket? It also looks like I would need the hand guard that has the 2 holes cut in it - mine is the solid hand guard. Please let me know your thoughts.
 
Your 028WB was built before 1983. Some of them can be fitted with chain brakes but the real early one cannot. The early crankcase is not machined for the components.
I will see if I can dig up a serial number split.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Hi D'Animal. I am new here so I hope I am doing this right!

I have a STIHL MS028 AVEQ SUPER. I've just recently bought it. I tuned the carby and now runs great. (Best saw ive had). I have noticed that its not putting out as much oil on the bar as it did? It USED to give about 3/4 of a tank of oil to a tank of fuel. Now its probably under half a tank of oil to one of fuel?

There is a screw in the white / opaque plastic cover of the oil box, BELOW the oil filler cap, that appears to be some sort of adjuster. Can you advise please if this is and, if so, which way do I turn the screw to increase the oil flow to the bar?

If not. then this screw is just loose and I would like to know if there is an adjuster fitted.?

Thanks in advance for ANY help you can give...
 
That is an adjustment screw for the oiler.

It only turns 1/4 turn so don't go crazy with it.

One thing you may want to consider is the oil temp. If it is cold, it will thicken and will be harder for the pump to move through the system.

If you are ripping a lot of wood, your fuel consumption will go up but your oil consumption will remain the same. Ripping Oak with a 20" bar on my 036 I will go through 3 tanks if fuel to 1 tank of oil.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
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