Is there any way to remove and install the 1hz injection pump without special tools? I need to get it off for a tune up with the injectors. Special tools are hard, if not impossible to come by, in this part of the world. Thanks.
Removing the 1hz Injection Pump without sst's
- Thread starter mbashier
- Start date
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When I've done it I've never used an sst. Remove power steering reservoir. Or at least get it out the way
Disconnect wiring and fuel lines
Remove injection lines
Remove timing cover
Remove belt and tensioner
Loosen bolt holding pump to timing cover. On between the pump and block is tricky
Loosen nut on pump shaft at front of pump. A few gentle taps while the nut is loose got the taper to free up between the shaft and gear
Be careful not to loose key on the shaft
Then pull the nut and bolt right off and slide the pump back
I had it down to a couple hours on an hz since we swapped pump 3-4 times.
Disconnect wiring and fuel lines
Remove injection lines
Remove timing cover
Remove belt and tensioner
Loosen bolt holding pump to timing cover. On between the pump and block is tricky
Loosen nut on pump shaft at front of pump. A few gentle taps while the nut is loose got the taper to free up between the shaft and gear
Be careful not to loose key on the shaft
Then pull the nut and bolt right off and slide the pump back
I had it down to a couple hours on an hz since we swapped pump 3-4 times.
Don't forget the big pump bracket bolt by the injection line outlets.
You must be a freaking Jedi to get that rear timing cover bolt between the pump and block. I just ended up taking the intake manifold off and replaced gaskets there while I was in there. I'll try it your way this time around.
I used a little puller very similar to this. Had a few extra holes.
You must be a freaking Jedi to get that rear timing cover bolt between the pump and block. I just ended up taking the intake manifold off and replaced gaskets there while I was in there. I'll try it your way this time around.
I used a little puller very similar to this. Had a few extra holes.
- Thread starter
- #8
"Loosen nut on pump shaft at front of pump. A few gentle taps while the nut is loose got the taper to free up between the shaft and gear"
This is the phase that I'm feeling most hesitant about. I'm a real sissy when it comes to whacking internal parts
. Do I need to hit the nut itself? Can this be pulled off without the need of a puller, especially as you guys mentioned it was tight? Or would a puller be more practical?
This is the phase that I'm feeling most hesitant about. I'm a real sissy when it comes to whacking internal parts
. Do I need to hit the nut itself? Can this be pulled off without the need of a puller, especially as you guys mentioned it was tight? Or would a puller be more practical?- Joined
- Sep 6, 2002
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Quote: "Loosen nut on pump shaft at front of pump. A few gentle taps while the nut is loose got the taper to free up between the shaft and gear"
This is the phase that I'm feeling most hesitant about. I'm a real sissy when it comes to whacking internal parts. Do I need to hit the nut itself? Can this be pulled off without the need of a puller, especially as you guys mentioned it was tight? Or would a puller be more practical?
End Quote
Do NOT do that. On the many 1HZ, HDT and HDFT pumps we pulled, not once would a 'few gentle taps' allow the pump to break loose. On the contrary, a few freaking HARD taps would not make it budge, but that is certainly not good for the threads.
Invest in a simple puller/pusher, as pictured above. I am sure you can find that in your neck of there woods.
Good Luck,
Jan
This is the phase that I'm feeling most hesitant about. I'm a real sissy when it comes to whacking internal parts
. Do I need to hit the nut itself? Can this be pulled off without the need of a puller, especially as you guys mentioned it was tight? Or would a puller be more practical? End Quote
Do NOT do that. On the many 1HZ, HDT and HDFT pumps we pulled, not once would a 'few gentle taps' allow the pump to break loose. On the contrary, a few freaking HARD taps would not make it budge, but that is certainly not good for the threads.
Invest in a simple puller/pusher, as pictured above. I am sure you can find that in your neck of there woods.
Good Luck,
Jan
Mine was so tight it took me a number of attempts using a puller. It was so tight the puller began to deform and it was a good puller.
When it finally come loose it let off an almightY CRACK. I thought the alloy timing cover had cracked,thankfully everything was ok.
I spoke to the shop that lent me the puller. The manager said that sometimes you have to get the puller as tight as you can then use gentle taps with a solid hammer. I got to admit, I would not relish using a hammer in that area , but if its not going to move you may have to look at that option, probably with a drift against the pump shaft.
When it finally come loose it let off an almightY CRACK. I thought the alloy timing cover had cracked,thankfully everything was ok.
I spoke to the shop that lent me the puller. The manager said that sometimes you have to get the puller as tight as you can then use gentle taps with a solid hammer. I got to admit, I would not relish using a hammer in that area , but if its not going to move you may have to look at that option, probably with a drift against the pump shaft.
- Thread starter
- #13
Yes ,thats why I love them. The engine has a brilliant lay out, everything (except the inner injection pump nut) is easy to get to. I like how the power steering pump and vac pump are built into the engine and lubricated with the engine oil.
Just some clean oil and filters and they will easily go to 600000klms ,although there is a few in oz that have exceeded 1000000klms mainly in buses.
- Thread starter
- #15
Amazing. I'd be more than happy if I get half the lifespan outta mine.
Well, today I finally got down to removing the injectors and injection pump. It was defiantly a breeze working on this engine, even though it's my first diesel and my first time working in this engine bay. Actually it was so easy, it was starting to get creepy.....by the time i was removing the last two bolts holding the injection pump to the timing case, the pump actually started falling off. No puller, no tapping,whacking or smacking. Oh oh, that was not supposed to happen. I was holding the pump with my other hand so it wouldn't fall to the ground..that's how bad it was. Upon further inspection I think I found the culprit
There's an indentation that can be seen in the photo above. It seems like someone messed up installing or removing it at some point of time. I hope it doesn't have an adverse effect on it. Maybe a shop can fill then grind it to spec or something. Will have to see.
- Thread starter
- #16
Got the pump over to the diesel shop and they said they'll take care of everything. I'll have to asked how they're gonna have it repaired. They seem to know what they're doing. They had the pump gasket set and injection nozzles on hand at the shop. They do a lot of army 1hz engines, so I hope they're up to the task.
- Thread starter
- #17
You must be a freaking Jedi to get that rear timing cover bolt between the pump and block.
I ended up using a ratcheting wrench like this. It made taking off the nut so much easier.
I ended up using a ratcheting wrench like this. It made taking off the nut so much easier.
Can you use an impact gun to remove shaft nut? I can't get it to budge with a breaker bar.
Thank you!