Those are the BBS forged wheels sold in black on Tundras and in bronze on the Heritage. They are the black ones powder coated silver with Heritage center caps painted silver. Thank you.
Removing Side Molding (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter TH171
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OEM front leveling spacers?
That's right. You can find the part numbers on ih8mud if you do a quick search
Toyota PN 43136-60020
it's official name is Shock Absorber Sleeve, but it is in fact a OEM 10mm spacer for the front strut assembly. It's used in other markets but not in the US - probably because we like to tow our toys more than anyone else. It reduces the front rake from roughly 2" to 1" and makes your LC200 look way more level and "right"
Hi guys,
Just dropping in some info to hopefully help someone in my same situation someday. This thread comes up when I was searching for side molding removal guides for the LX570 so this seems like a good spot to leave tips.
I have a 2010 LX. The side molding on mine had no clips or anything holding it on, only 3M style double sided tape. Floss it off with a little heat or pull gently and cut around it carefully with a razor blade. Then at autozone you can get a 3M adhesive wheel remover—super useful for removing any labels or old clear bras from your car fast without doing damage. It’s like a little wax wheel that you mount on a drill, wouldn’t think you’d want to take to your paint but it actually does no damage so long as you don’t let it get too hot. Fantastic tool, can’t stress enough how much faster it makes the removal of the old tape. My moldings left little rings on the paint where they had been sitting so over the next few days I’ll be wet sanding a little and polishing to correct the problem spots. I’ll come back with completed pictures when all’s said and done.
Peace.
Just dropping in some info to hopefully help someone in my same situation someday. This thread comes up when I was searching for side molding removal guides for the LX570 so this seems like a good spot to leave tips.
I have a 2010 LX. The side molding on mine had no clips or anything holding it on, only 3M style double sided tape. Floss it off with a little heat or pull gently and cut around it carefully with a razor blade. Then at autozone you can get a 3M adhesive wheel remover—super useful for removing any labels or old clear bras from your car fast without doing damage. It’s like a little wax wheel that you mount on a drill, wouldn’t think you’d want to take to your paint but it actually does no damage so long as you don’t let it get too hot. Fantastic tool, can’t stress enough how much faster it makes the removal of the old tape. My moldings left little rings on the paint where they had been sitting so over the next few days I’ll be wet sanding a little and polishing to correct the problem spots. I’ll come back with completed pictures when all’s said and done.
Peace.
Just had this done at local body shop for 2019 LC200. The shop owner initially turned me down bc they have a certain reputation for quality but changed his mind when I sent him dnh1 video from Ed Martin.
It was pricey but they did it in a way to maximize the chances of no corrosion or issues in the future. They welded the holes with metal, put in body filler, and painted over. Looks much slicker now.
It was pricey but they did it in a way to maximize the chances of no corrosion or issues in the future. They welded the holes with metal, put in body filler, and painted over. Looks much slicker now.
Looks awesome! I don't know why I hated the chrome molding so much. I think it just reminded me too much of an LX with all the bling. I realize the current LX doesn't even have chrome molding on the doors but previous ones did and is in general more blinged out.
Thanks appreciate your help via DM in the process. Yes I used to own a GX460 and the chrome molding way so bling-y especially on black where it contrasts the most.
Anyone have a pic of the 2016 LC and newer with molding off ....I am curious to see the tabs and holes remaining before the paint/ppf is applied.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
How difficult were they to remove? I’m thinking about taking mine off to wrap them as they are getting a little dinged up.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
@MikeVpdx503 they weren't hard to remove at all. I just used a plastic trim tool to pop them off. They're only held on by those reusable plastic trim clips (like the ones that hold the interior trim panels on) and a tiny bit of double sided tape at the leading edge of the back door trim strips.
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I am considering replacing mine...the winter road treatment in CO has caused pitting...for now replacing is the cheaper fix. If this was an old truck I would feel much differently.
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For those of you who have gone the full bodyshop treatment (weld/ fill/ prep/ repaint) - how much did the job run you? I just got quoted $2100 per side ($4200) or ~$600 to do just the chrome molds to match body color. While I really love the look, I would also like to do some suspension fiddling.
I wonder how the vinyl would look on a black LC? I guess if I try it and it doesnt look great I can always put the chrome back on.
Lots of good information in this thread - many thanks.
In my case (2018 stock LC, Blizzard Pearl Tricoat White over Black), I'm looking to keep the side moldings - they are 100% necessary in this parking environment unfortunately. So, I am potentially looking to do a chrome delete there and on the chrome "belt" that runs along the bottom of the windows. I'll look at what to do with the chrome on the rear and the front as I make my way there, but the sides are the most pressing issue now, as I'm in the midst of debating whether to go with matte black TRD BBS + HE center caps, or to get the TRDs painted or plastidipped bronze first.
Whether black or bronze wheels, I'm thinking white paint + dark windows + black "belt" trim under the windows + OEM faux chrome side moldings will look...stupid. I think changing the moldings to black (paint, vinyl or plastidip) will make the overall look too "Stormtrooper-ish", so that probably leaves trying to get a white color for the side moldings.
Has anyone already figured out (1) what brand & color of vinyl would match closest to our Toyota Pearl White, (2) same question for Plastidip, and/or (3) is there a rattle-can alternative for painting the moldings off the car, or is that a dumb idea?
In my case (2018 stock LC, Blizzard Pearl Tricoat White over Black), I'm looking to keep the side moldings - they are 100% necessary in this parking environment unfortunately. So, I am potentially looking to do a chrome delete there and on the chrome "belt" that runs along the bottom of the windows. I'll look at what to do with the chrome on the rear and the front as I make my way there, but the sides are the most pressing issue now, as I'm in the midst of debating whether to go with matte black TRD BBS + HE center caps, or to get the TRDs painted or plastidipped bronze first.
Whether black or bronze wheels, I'm thinking white paint + dark windows + black "belt" trim under the windows + OEM faux chrome side moldings will look...stupid. I think changing the moldings to black (paint, vinyl or plastidip) will make the overall look too "Stormtrooper-ish", so that probably leaves trying to get a white color for the side moldings.
Has anyone already figured out (1) what brand & color of vinyl would match closest to our Toyota Pearl White, (2) same question for Plastidip, and/or (3) is there a rattle-can alternative for painting the moldings off the car, or is that a dumb idea?
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Avery SW900-109-S is a very close match. *VERY* slight difference in the pearl effect, but minor. I have it on my rear quarter windows as an experiment, and I kinda like it so it's staying for now. The black trim that separates them is enough that you can really see the change.
That being said, I want to cover the chrome on those door strips with matte black, so they match the BudBuilt sliders.
Amazon product ASIN B00DMEFUKG
Thanks (once again) @KLF. I was already looking at the 3M 1080 (or 2080) vinyl in their Satin Pearl White, or maybe something equivalent from Vvivid...Amazon has a sample size of the 3M for $2.19 and the Avery you used for $2.49, so I'll add those to my next order to check them out in real sunlight.
I know that vinyl is OK to pretty good as a solution, but it's not perfect...but I'm not ready to spend the coin to have these pieces professionally repainted, so I'm leaning towards vinyl. I've seen the Plastidip implementations on the rear on various posts here, but I'm thinking that vinyl may be "better" for the side moldings. I have zero experience with Plastidip, so I'm hoping to learn more about it here, both with respect to body parts and wheels.
I had a new BMW sedan (lease) chrome-deleted using vinyl back in January - it was too tough for me to do with all of the complicated shapes and corners, but maybe these four moldings off the car will be something I can do myself.
Back on the subject of color: I have a Dr. ColorChip touch up kit sitting in the garage, ready to deal with the few scrapes I've found on my exterior when I've got some free time (read: never). For that process, when you click on the 070 Blizzard Pearl Tricoat option, you get this warning message:
Sounds like getting it close enough in vinyl or Plastidip is about as good as it's going to get.
Through search I found this thread in the GX section : OEM color matched vinyl wrap? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oem-color-matched-vinyl-wrap.1186424/ No real / definitive answer there, either.
I know that vinyl is OK to pretty good as a solution, but it's not perfect...but I'm not ready to spend the coin to have these pieces professionally repainted, so I'm leaning towards vinyl. I've seen the Plastidip implementations on the rear on various posts here, but I'm thinking that vinyl may be "better" for the side moldings. I have zero experience with Plastidip, so I'm hoping to learn more about it here, both with respect to body parts and wheels.
I had a new BMW sedan (lease) chrome-deleted using vinyl back in January - it was too tough for me to do with all of the complicated shapes and corners, but maybe these four moldings off the car will be something I can do myself.
Back on the subject of color: I have a Dr. ColorChip touch up kit sitting in the garage, ready to deal with the few scrapes I've found on my exterior when I've got some free time (read: never). For that process, when you click on the 070 Blizzard Pearl Tricoat option, you get this warning message:
Sounds like getting it close enough in vinyl or Plastidip is about as good as it's going to get.
Through search I found this thread in the GX section : OEM color matched vinyl wrap? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oem-color-matched-vinyl-wrap.1186424/ No real / definitive answer there, either.
