Removing Federal Emissions Package

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Joined
Mar 20, 2007
Threads
10
Messages
28
'78 FJ40

The belt to air pump has been missing for several years and she runs fine.

Can I just remove all of the "federal emissions" system, plug the resulting holes and move on?

Positives?

Negatives?

Thanks

Joe
 
No.

I would recommend a read of the Emissions FSM to understand what everything is doing, and then deciding from there.

Off the top of my head, you have to consider systems like the charcoal canister, which is controlled by the computer and connects to a vacuum source. If you do away with that system, then you'll have to consider the side effects.

I'm considering putting all my emissions stuff back on, because my tailpipe is now more stinky than when I had all that stuff installed. YMMV. I didn't notice any performance increase either, so I figure I'll throw it back on, especially since I live in an emissions-controlled area (even though I'm emissions exempt). If I ever have to sell it it'll be worth more with the emissions equipment intact.

Check this thread for more discussion:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/440852-77-fj40-federal-2f-desmog.html
 
Correct 1978 desmog diagram

It should be routed like this to minimize the negative systems (EGR, AIR) and keep the positive systems (evap, vac advance, CB...).
attachment.php
 
thanks.
Yep I checked out the older threads on this as well.
I am at the stage now where I need to either replace the vacuum hoses or just remove them.
Like I said in the OP - the air pump is not even hooked up, some hoses are cracked, some are disconnected (fallen off) and the beast still runs.

So I was wondering if I could just yank everything and keep on cruisin'....
 
I de-smogged my 1980 (11/79 build) using the de-smog threads over in the 60-series sub-forum and with Jim C.'s (FJ40Jim) help and plug kit:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/440288-my-desmog-keeping-hac-lots-pics.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/188643-my-desmog-thread.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/365215-desmog-components.html

I did a complete de-smog as in those threads, retaining only those systems that Jim mentioned above. I also by-passed my "emissions computer" when it failed. I initially took off the High Altitude Compensation system but recently re-installed it. I'm very happy with the results.

Positives?

My truck idles better, runs cooler (especially noticeable in the decrease of floorboard heat), and accelerates better. Gas mileage went up slightly. Much more room to work around the engine, more room for accessories on the fenders, easy now to heat burritos over the manifolds.

Negatives?

None that I can think of for me. I don't live anywhere that requires smog testing and I don't plan to ever sell this truck so I gave away all my removed smog stuff to someone who does live in a smog-testing area.
 
thanks.
Yep I checked out the older threads on this as well.
I am at the stage now where I need to either replace the vacuum hoses or just remove them.
Like I said in the OP - the air pump is not even hooked up, some hoses are cracked, some are disconnected (fallen off) and the beast still runs.

So I was wondering if I could just yank everything and keep on cruisin'....

See post #3 for what it should look like to run good.

Removing all rubber hoses from underhood will lead to running like poo (no PCV, no vac advance, overpressurized fuel tank, no choke breaker, inop dissy cap vent system...).
:cheers:
 
See post #3 for what it should look like to run good.

Removing all rubber hoses from underhood will lead to running like poo (no PCV, no vac advance, overpressurized fuel tank, no choke breaker, inop dissy cap vent system...).
:cheers:
Need some help identifying parts (VTV, BVSV etc.) on diagram #3
thanks
 
BVSVs screw into the thermostat housing and have two vacuum line connections. VTV is a cylindrical shape, inline with a vacuum hose. Blue VTV is actually blue and white as I recall.

BVSVs are closed when cold and open up at different temps depending on their color. Not sure what a VTV does. Check valve?
 
No.

I would recommend a read of the Emissions FSM to understand what everything is doing, and then deciding from there.

Off the top of my head, you have to consider systems like the charcoal canister, which is controlled by the computer and connects to a vacuum source. If you do away with that system, then you'll have to consider the side effects.

I'm considering putting all my emissions stuff back on, because my tailpipe is now more stinky than when I had all that stuff installed. YMMV. I didn't notice any performance increase either, so I figure I'll throw it back on, especially since I live in an emissions-controlled area (even though I'm emissions exempt). If I ever have to sell it it'll be worth more with the emissions equipment intact.

Check this thread for more discussion:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/440852-77-fj40-federal-2f-desmog.html

This is worth repeating. If you DO de-smog it, bag and tag your pieces and try not to destroy them as you remove them. Especially on a 77 the parts are rare and only getting rarer. With emissions standards just increasing you may want those in the near future. People say a HP increase but I went from a de-smogged Holley to the OEM full emissions and it runs better with the OEM IMHO. Good luck, an emissions manual is worth it's weight in gold when messing with that system.

AF
 
check out mikefj40 post from today about his fj40 passing cal smog i sent pics of my hoses let me know if pictures like that would help
 
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