Removing ABS

[PKP80]

Having installed a Slee Hi-Steer kit my ABS can be pretty much be rendered useless.

So the question is, any concerns removing the ABS unit from the DS front fender?

The additional space in the engine bay would be great. Thanks in advance.

 

[OGBeno]

Having installed a Slee Hi-Steer kit my ABS can be pretty much be rendered useless.

So the question is, any concerns removing the ABS unit from the DS front fender?

The additional space in the engine bay would be great. Thanks in advance.

Lotsa space in fact...

 

[PKP80]

Beno, is it a simple unbolt and remove or will I have to close off a few lines and pay a visit to the parts store?

 

[OGBeno]

Beno, is it a simple unbolt and remove or will I have to close off a few lines and pay a visit to the parts store?

Sam:

I pulled the actuator assy. Then I pulled the lines that seemed unncessary. And then basically used an OEM 3-way T (same one as underneath the MC) to tie back in the loose lines. You will get rid of, IIRC, 2 short pieces of brake line (good as spares) and then bent a few of the remaining ones to create redundancy.

I have some pics if you want me to post them.

-o-

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Hmmm... I should do this. I haven't had ABS in years.

 

[PKP80]

Sam:

I pulled the actuator assy. Then I pulled the lines that seemed unncessary. And then basically used an OEM 3-way T (same one as underneath the MC) to tie back in the loose lines. You will get rid of, IIRC, 2 short pieces of brake line (good as spares) and then bent a few of the remaining ones to create redundancy.

I have some pics if you want me to post them.

-o-

Pics and a step by step in order to cancel out anything need for thinking would be SO appreciated at the part of the game. As usual I've seemed to manage adding a bunch of things to my Rubithon plate.

 

[gotmud]

Beno, did you gain any on-road performance from removing the ABS?

 

[PKP80]

Beno, did you gain any on-road performance from removing the ABS?

I have heard that you increase the brake pressure behind the pedal, so a stiffer brake pedal and not having to press all the way in.

 

[PKP80]

BENO, or Creeper....any pics of this process? I still have yet to do it, but I want to soon

 

[CreeperSleeper]

I still haven't touched mine... C'mon BENO! Help us out!

 

[dafun1]

Yeah my actuator is toast and I have been waitting to see pics of this too. I understand schematically what you did beno, but I want to see it, and see if you replaced the LSPV with a simple valve in the engine bay that you could manually adjust like I think you were talking about...

 

[OGBeno]

I'm at work till late tonight. I will post up pics tomorrow.

I removed the LSPV from the rear crossmember and used an OEM 3-way T to T in the 2 lines that come in to the one line that goes to the rear axle housing.

I do have a manual LSPV that has 10mm metric fitting, but I have yet to install that. It's on my to do list but way down.

The brakes are **significantly** better without the ABS and basically having the old school 50-50 set up front and rear.

 

[96r50]

Hey Onur, I'm curious as to why you T'd the two lines together where the LSPV was. It seems to me that with this setup you have connected the front and rear systems together so now you don't have the two circuits working separately anymore. I think it would be safer and simpler to remove the second line to the rear (the one that comes off the T below the master cylinder from the front brake circuit) and plug that port, and then connect the rear line straight through to the rear brakes. This would keep the front and rear brake circuits separate, so if you have a leak in one circuit you will still have the other circuit (the same way the OEM setup functions).

Just my $0.02 (CAD eh? )

 

[OGBeno]

Hey Onur, I'm curious as to why you T'd the two lines together where the LSPV was. It seems to me that with this setup you have connected the front and rear systems together so now you don't have the two circuits working separately anymore. I think it would be safer and simpler to remove the second line to the rear (the one that comes off the T below the master cylinder from the front brake circuit) and plug that port, and then connect the rear line straight through to the rear brakes. This would keep the front and rear brake circuits separate, so if you have a leak in one circuit you will still have the other circuit (the same way the OEM setup functions).

Just my $0.02 (CAD eh? )

The T is just a temporary fitting until I install the manual LSPV where the old one used to be. As such, I was not interested in de-plumbing something I would have to eventually plumb back up.

 

[silverhorse]

I want in on this!
I have never liked ABS. Makes me feel not in control during panic braking

 

[hawaiicruz]

It's on my list. I've had the fuse pulled for 6 months, ever since I hit that pig.

 

[96r50]

The T is just a temporary fitting until I install the manual LSPV where the old one used to be. As such, I was not interested in de-plumbing something I would have to eventually plumb back up.

Which manual proportioning valve do you have? All of the ones I have seen are single input/single output, and they only modulate the output pressure to the rear brakes. They have no connection to the front brake system AFAIK. The line from the front brake circuit is used by the stock LSP&BV to monitor the front brake circuit pressure and allow full pressure (no proportioning) to the rear brakes in the event of a front brake circuit leak. Since a manual proportioning valve doesn't have that feature AFAIK, there is no need for the front line.

Also, with the T in place of the LSP&BV you have connected the front and rear brake circuits together so you no longer have two separate braking systems. Be careful that you don't get a leak anywhere, otherwise you'll only have a parking brake to slow you down!

 

[OGBeno]

Which manual proportioning valve do you have? All of the ones I have seen are single input/single output, and they only modulate the output pressure to the rear brakes. They have no connection to the front brake system AFAIK. The line from the front brake circuit is used by the stock LSP&BV to monitor the front brake circuit pressure and allow full pressure (no proportioning) to the rear brakes in the event of a front brake circuit leak. Since a manual proportioning valve doesn't have that feature AFAIK, there is no need for the front line.

Also, with the T in place of the LSP&BV you have connected the front and rear brake circuits together so you no longer have two separate braking systems. Be careful that you don't get a leak anywhere, otherwise you'll only have a parking brake to slow you down!

I'll have to find it in the shed. It actually has a 2 input and a one output set up just like stock.

What you say is correct....

Luckily, I have all new hardlines.

 

[ShawnTRD]

Adding to the To Do list.

 

[MaddBaggins]

When I smashed my ABS line wheeling years ago, I removed the ABS fuse. Thats it. Done.