Relocating negative battery ground (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 5, 2022
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Orange Ca
Any issues with moving the ground from the large bolt under the AC bracket. To one of the bolts that hold the AC bracket to the engine?
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If the (any) alternative bolt has the same diameter and the thread for it is in the engine block I can't see a issue with it.
In theory it would be the best solution if you would attach the ground directly to the block , not on a bracket - but that bracket is bolted with multiple bolts to the block...and that should give you heaps contact area.
 
No issue at all.

Mark...
 
Any issues with moving the ground from the large bolt under the AC bracket. To one of the bolts that hold the AC bracket to the engine?
View attachment 3494062



NO ,

in fact .....

it has always stiked me as dam odd TOYOTA bolted a major sytem NEG- cable promary to 2 pieces of carbon steel 100% completely isolatated and insulated from ANY electrical curent flow via vulcanized rubber 2 inched thick ?



when i approached a better and moreover updated design badly needed update to BOTH the 60 and 62 B+ POS and NEG- ground cables .....

- i examined in great details a 2005 land Cruiser and a 1FZ-FE 80 series too...

- i found a few unique update features like serviceable NON-LED LUG TIN plated YAZAKI japan terminals and both have a m* stud and nut to simple STACK ring terminals on the , like for our fusible links and a electric warn winch for example

- a super TOUGH AS NAILS B+ battery cable rubber boot at both the main battery terminal and the starter LUG also , needed long term safety protective covers


SCREW Hard Molded Plastic , the global trend to a cheaper tommorow fall of and break when you change out your starter too !

once again OEM YAZAKI was the best possible JAPAN spec solution hands down and both are in-fact RED UV rated molded soft and nice rubber too


- the later 62's and ALL Cold Spec, TOYOTA's / SNOW VERSION package option equipped TOYOTA cars and trucks , have a beefy applied layer of corrugated black split loom on the B+ end to end ,

- the original FJ62 , HJ61 and FZJ80 all have a 4AWG primary cables , CABLE BOND #1 at the starter is AWG #6 and #8 too ....


- i concluded bumping up all cables 1 size spec. was not only paratactical , but did not create a single install issue , yet its NOT a MIL SPEC. monster cable you pay for that big B/S name ~ ! mil spec blows it SAE and , also THICK bare copper too strands , this = sh#tty Elec current flow


- i did my R+D and infect ANCHOR MARINE brand battery cable the TOP SHELF globally , there super super fine strands tin plated strands hence a light years ahead of junbop welding cables u buy by the foot at home depot ,.,,,

- the :

us mulita

us coast guard

all use ANCHOR MARINE at sea ,,,that says alot to me


so : 100% japan spec realted battery cable parts , and ANCHOR MARINE 2 AWG cable across the board , including the required cable bond #1 simply the way and my way

- i personally hand assemble and build each cable based on good original FJ60/62 original cables end to end


i address the whole stupid motor mount location under the A/C compressor , by adding the rewired inches and installing the correct end of run via the motor mount dog legs 3 14mmhex bolts to side of block , i include a fresh #8 mark head double SEMS washers equipped OEM japan spec bolt the and a new one for the passenger side along the run attachment location as well

cable bond #1 kit all new oem required mounting hardware too ....of course ...

The rocket science is real and so are the results i have experienced installing what i create on my own personal TOYOTA vehicle fleet

matt



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