Regarding Brake Switch Ports

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Joined
Jul 16, 2025
Threads
10
Messages
79
Location
Maryland, USA
Hey guys,

I was wondering if anyone had recommendations for what plug to use for the two brake switch ports (Item #5) on a brake master cylinder? I have an older Land Cruiser so my brake light is toggled without the need for brake switches. I purchased two M10x1.0 brake line plugs (https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Compatible-Bubble-Fitting-Unwanted/dp/B0DK52MR3D?tag=ihco-20) but they seem to be leaking. Please see the image attached! Thanks.

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Are the threads for the switches the same as the brake lines? or are they BSPT?
Thats what im unsure about. Unfortunately I don’t have any switches to compare to. I wonder if they are different from the typical M10x1.0?
 
Is that just a brass plug? as in no electrical contacts!. Yes then your trying to put straight threaded plugs into tapered threaded holes and they will not seal with out help. Besides poisoning your pets or eating your paint brake juice/water combo can clean carbon out of the combustion chamber/piston rings.

Remove the reservoir caps, fill revivor to nearly the top, cover each of the reservoir opening with Saran Wrap to seal them - put caps back on.

Have a bottle of nail polish remover/acetone and a giant q-tip/swab/dabber. A tube of Aviation Permatex Type 2 B non-hardening sealant.

Take out a plug - a little fluid will leak out until vacuum will hold it more of less in. Clean the plug with the "acetone", blow dry, apply a thick full coat of the Permatex to the plug, set aside. Wet the q-tip with solvent, try and clean/dry the hole for the plug. Screw the the plug in tight - there should be a nice bead of Permatex at the junction - if not you did not put a fat enough coating on the plug to start with.

Do the other one. Remove the Saran Wrap, top off or spoon/ladle out fluid to the fuel line.


Many uses - water pump bolt(s) that require sealant, I used it to seal the threads on the slave cylinder bleed nipples so I could use my Mighty Vac on man brake bleeder, a dab or a coating on paper/cork gaskets to hold them in place for assembly or help actually form a leak free seal.[/URL]
 
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Is that just a brass plug? as in no electrical contacts!. Yes then your trying to put straight threaded plugs into tapered threaded holes and they will not seal with out help. Besides poisoning your pets or eating your paint brake juice/water combo can clean carbon out of the combustion chamber/piston rings.

Remove the reservoir caps, fill revivor to nearly the top, cover each of the reservoir opening with Saran Wrap to seal them - put caps back on.

Have a bottle of nail polish remover/acetone and a giant q-tip/swab/dabber. A tube of Aviation Permatex Type 2 B non-hardening sealant.

Take out a plug - a little fluid will leak out until vacuum with hold it more of less in. Clean the plug with the "acetone", blow dry, apply a thick full coat of the Permatex to the plug, set aside. Wet the q-tip with solvent, try and clean/dry the hole for the plug. Screw the the plug in tight - there should be a nice bead of Permatex at the junction - if not you did not put a fat enough coating on the plug to start with.

Do the other one. Remove the Saran Wrap, top off or spoon/ladle out fluid to the fuel line.


Many uses - water pump bolt(s) that require sealant, I used it to seal the threads on the slave cylinder bleed nipples so I could use my Mighty Vac on man brake bleeder, a dab or a coating on paper/cork gaskets to hold them in place for assembly or help actually form a leak free seal.[/URL]
Thank you so much for your thorough response Mr. Meyer! I will try that ASAP.
 
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