Rear Heater bypass pics.

[Benjaman]

Got around to doing the bypass of the rear heater today. Needed 3 hoses and a plug.

I should of saved the part #'s but tossed them on Saturday. What you need is easy to find. The dealer will show you a pic of the optional hose and plug, for use without the the rear heater. You'll need two of those hoses, one plug and one -L- shaped hose.

 

[Heartworm]

I appreciate you showing us this. I have considered doing this for several years because (1) I almost always run with my rear seat folded, (2) I do not have a clue if the rear heater even works, and (3) those 2 rubber hoses under the floor look very vulnerable to a stray limb, etc. Good work!
If you can figure out part numbers, that would be a plus. By dealer I am assuming a Toyota dealer?

 

[Benjaman]

I appreciate you showing us this. I have considered doing this for several years because (1) I almost always run with my rear seat folded, (2) I do not have a clue if the rear heater even works, and (3) those 2 rubber hoses under the floor look very vulnerable to a stray limb, etc. Good work!
If you can figure out part numbers, that would be a plus. By dealer I am assuming a Toyota dealer?

Found them on SOR.

 

[swamp60]

This info Benjaman posted up is for a 62.

If you have a 60, it is different. I know because I just took the whole unit out of my 1982 FJ60 yesterday.

The 60 has a pipe that runs behind the engine from the passenger side into the fire wall and connects to a T coming off of the heater pipe coming out of the head on the driver side (lhd). That connection need sto be cut and the pipe (off the head) is capped with a 2 dollar pipe fittin and some pipe dope (I have also seen this location used to fit an aftermarket water temp sensor). Then over on the other side I think you only have to replace one hose with a longer one - lower heater hose coming out of the firewall straight to the metal return pipe attached to the engine. You can do it in under 30 mins and under 10 bucks easy.

I'll take some pics and post up the info for a 60 series this week.

swamp60

 

[swamp60]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/290221-radiator-leak-build.html

This thread has some good pics and then a discuussion of part sizes at post 25.

swamp60

 

[shaggyFJ]

Nice Post

I have to do this to mine. While I was under there looking into my leaky Trans cooler lines I noticed the rear heat hard lines are very rusty. probably won't be long before they leak too. I'm amazed how little rust there is on my frame and most of the undercarrige but these lines are very rusty!

 

[Spook50]

I couldn't see getting rid of my rear heater. I need to clean out the core (dust and crap built up in the fins, should clean the front core too) and replace both fan motors, but when it works it works outstanding. Plus with my sister being diabetic, if her and her husband go anywhere with me driving, she opts to sit in the back because of the heater for her feet. That rear heater is a big benefit in my 62

 

[gfoz]

they are also perfect for putting your ski boots in front of on the drive up the mountain!

 

[swamp60]

no body is telling you to take the bloody thing out, just how to do it correctly if you want to, or its broken, or you live in the swamp and you don't need it.

I pulled mine to put something else under the passenger seat that is a little "hotter" than that heater. Plus those two hoses and pipes are jsut begging to get poked/ripped out with a big stick where i wheel so i viewed it as a liability and removed it and put a small safe in its place. I removed the entire system and will be posting it in the classifides soon for someone who wants to have a rear heater.

Its all about what you want in your ride, i wanted hot lead not hot air.

swamp60

 

[Spook50]

they are also perfect for putting your ski boots in front of on the drive up the mountain!

I sometimes call it the Sorel warmer

 

[gfoz]

I ordered a couple of those plugs just to have in my emergency repair kit......thanks for pointing them out

 

[Rigger]

Here's a question, but it requires a lengthy preface.

My front heater blows warm air. I think the core is partially plugged. My rear heater blows hot air. It develops more heat than the front heater. I understand that the path for coolant to flow is less retrictive to the rear core, so it may be that the rear core gets hot coolant more easily. IIRC, if I close off my rear heater, the front heater will get warmer.

Are those of you that are removing the rear heater noticing that the front heater blows hotter?

(Yeesh, what a long-winded post. I hope it makes sense.)

 

[swamp60]

Rigger

there was no noticible temp difference between mine before I took out the rear one....they were both really really hot...so i really cant say it made a difference in my front heat temp...sorry

swamp

 

[gfoz]

I'd check the heater valve first. Mine was doing that and it turned out the cable had slipped so it wasn't opening completely. When it is on full hot the lever should be hitting on the cable clamp, you can see it on the picture above. Sort of. Also where the hose enters the valve is a good spot for crud to build up.

 

[srogers]

Rigger, mine's doing the same, I can crank the heat out of the rear but the front is only moderate...gfoz, good tip on checking the heater valve.

 

[Emeeks]

This info Benjaman posted up is for a 62.

If you have a 60, it is different. I know because I just took the whole unit out of my 1982 FJ60 yesterday.

The 60 has a pipe that runs behind the engine from the passenger side into the fire wall and connects to a T coming off of the heater pipe coming out of the head on the driver side (lhd). That connection need sto be cut and the pipe (off the head) is capped with a 2 dollar pipe fittin and some pipe dope (I have also seen this location used to fit an aftermarket water temp sensor). Then over on the other side I think you only have to replace one hose with a longer one - lower heater hose coming out of the firewall straight to the metal return pipe attached to the engine. You can do it in under 30 mins and under 10 bucks easy.

I'll take some pics and post up the info for a 60 series this week.

swamp60

I need to bypass both of my heater cores on my 60, do you have pic's of the bypass?

 

[swamp60]

dont have pics handy, but you would need to block off the T that branches out of the pipe coming out of the back of the cylinder head on the DS. that is the input to the rear core. Pipe plug from the hardware store adn some yellow pipe dope.

Then, instead of a hose running from the top that pipe into the main heater core, just run heater hose to the metal return line that runs along the passanger side of the head. currently this shuld be conncted to the hard line coming out of the firewall.

I will try to post up some pics later.

hope this makes sense.

swamp60

 

[Emeeks]

dont have pics handy, but you would need to block off the T that branches out of the pipe coming out of the back of the cylinder head on the DS. that is the input to the rear core. Pipe plug from the hardware store adn some yellow pipe dope.

Then, instead of a hose running from the top that pipe into the main heater core, just run heater hose to the metal return line that runs along the passanger side of the head. currently this shuld be conncted to the hard line coming out of the firewall.

I will try to post up some pics later.

hope this makes sense.

swamp60

Nice thanks I think I can do that!
Thanks again!

 

[TEXASYETI]

dont have pics handy, but you would need to block off the T that branches out of the pipe coming out of the back of the cylinder head on the DS. that is the input to the rear core. Pipe plug from the hardware store adn some yellow pipe dope.

Then, instead of a hose running from the top that pipe into the main heater core, just run heater hose to the metal return line that runs along the passanger side of the head. currently this shuld be conncted to the hard line coming out of the firewall.

I will try to post up some pics later.

hope this makes sense.

swamp60

I think it makes sense too - I am wanting to block of all auxiliary heat for now - but pics would still be cool. Thanks!

 

[Emeeks]

dont have pics handy, but you would need to block off the T that branches out of the pipe coming out of the back of the cylinder head on the DS. that is the input to the rear core. Pipe plug from the hardware store adn some yellow pipe dope.

Then, instead of a hose running from the top that pipe into the main heater core, just run heater hose to the metal return line that runs along the passanger side of the head. currently this shuld be conncted to the hard line coming out of the firewall.

I will try to post up some pics later.

hope this makes sense.

swamp60

I thought I knew what you were talking about but I'm still a little confused. I bought a plug for the head(couldn't find a metric so I got a 1/2 npt plug will that work?) to block the rear H/C. I also want to block of the front heater core too. I need to run a hose from the pipe on the P/S to the hard line ??? I will be bypassing the heater valve too right?
I'm making this harder than it should be I'm sure.