Rear hatch electric lock not working.

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E

Ement

10 Year
Joined
Jun 18, 2012
Threads
2
Messages
6
Location
Mesa AZ
I have seen the other threads on this subject but none seem to answer my question completely. My rear hatch actuator makes a noise when I activate it but does not lock or unlock the door. Everything seems in good order when I opened it up to take a look. Manual lock and linkage looks and operates smooth. The linkage for the actuator looks complete and operates when I use the manual lock. I opened up the actuator and the motor seems to be spinning with no signs of being slow. Before I order the motor was wondering if there is something I am missing?
1997 Lx450
Eric
 
I have the same problem with My 97 LC. Pulled it apart and everything looked like it worked until closer inspection. The center of the big white plastic gear had cracked jsust enough that it would not hold onto the threads of the metal spindle that actually turns the lock (in center). Could not find any of that specific part so just manually doing it for now. Open the case and inspect the large white plastc gear.
 
Thanks for the info. I looked but could not find any definite crack in the wheel. Granted the sun was out. The black lever inside that wheel and motor operates moves side to side by hand no movement. When I use the manual lock knob the black lever also springs from one side to the other. Can't see what's retaining the actuator to the linkage. Guess I'll have to take it out. In summary everything works including interal actuator in using the lock knob but does not work when I move the actuator itself. Not sure how to upload my photo on iPad sorry.
 
Can someone please verify the correct part number for the actuator only... is it Aisin DLT-089?
 
I had the same issue, the plastic had cracked. I degreased the plastic actuator and splined shaft then mixed up some accuraglass (two part epoxy) and stuck it back together using small clamp to hold it in position until it cured. This was a few months back and its still working great, maybe 100-200 cycles.
 
Here's a pic of the actuator, sorry dont have the part number.

tmp_21196-20170425_1928151354416651.webp
 
Here is where mine had failed. Please note the ty-rap failed soon after and I had to take it apart, clean it all up, and epoxy it. It has been working for several years now.

If you look real close at yours, you may see where the plastic is cracked. When gluing it, you need to be very sure you have the "timing" right, i.e., the arm to shaft relationship is very important. I believe I cycled the actuator a couple times to make sure it was lined up right, then let the epoxy cure.

DSC_6546 (Medium).webp
 
blkprj80 said:
Here is where mine had failed. Please note the ty-rap failed soon after and I had to take it apart, clean it all up, and epoxy it. It has been working for several years now.

If you look real close at yours, you may see where the plastic is cracked. When gluing it, you need to be very sure you have the "timing" right, i.e., the arm to shaft relationship is very important. I believe I cycled the actuator a couple times to make sure it was lined up right, then let the epoxy cure.

View attachment 1471977
Click to expand...
My rear hatch power unlock isn't working either. I have a completely clean vertical separation of the black plastic sleeve around the metal cylinder (the area in your photo zip tied by a greenish zip tie). So this is where yours failed too? I know it seems like a dumb question given you have a zip tie around it but on mine the gap is so clean it looks like that's the way it came from the factory. Sounds like you epoxy'd it while it was still encircling the metal cylinder. I've got that arm off right now and as going to clamp & epoxy it to holy hell while off.
 
Can anyone confirm the Aisin party number for the actuator is Aisin DLT-089?
If yes, that actuator is readily available online for about $45 on eBay, Amazon, etc.
 
Well there was a clean split in my armiture (pointed at with orange arrow on the pics below). I carefully took off the armiture, degreased it, scuffed up the outside (with a cheese grater of all things, which worked great on plastic), and then applied two layers of JB Weld around the entire outside of the armiture andused vice grips on a pretty weak setting to close the gap while the JB Weld cured. Just reinstalled it and the rear hatch door lock is working for the first time under my ownership.

I'll definitely keep an eye out at the salvage yard for a clean rear hatch actuator but for now I'm back in business. $5 (temp?) fix vs $300 or so for the replacement part (Toyota Part # 69040-60041 ... can't tell which Aisin part number corresponds to it, but @bicycleagent003 from the pics of Aisin DLT-089 on Amazon & eBay it doesn't look the same as what's in my vehicle). If it fails again I'll just epoxy it to the metal cylinder like blkprj80

full


Closer view of the split in the armiture
full
 
Joshau said:
(Toyota Part # 69040-60041
Click to expand...

This part number is for the entire rear hatch lock assembly... the actuator and the mechanical lock itself. Has anyone been able to figure out the Aisin part number (DLT-xxx)?

I have the same crack everyone is talking about. I also zip-tied it, but it didn't work. For those of you that used epoxy/JB weld, is there any way to remove that splined shaft from the housing to properly clean it and epoxy it?
 
Ya, that's for the entire assembly. I looked all over the the Aisin dlt-___ but couldnt find it either. Seems like it'd be the same as the one for the front driver door lock actuator.

Also, I didn't remove the metal shaft to clean it, just used an unzipped zip tie to get around the black plastic armature so that I could wiggle it off. Then epoxy'd the armature as discussed. It took a bit of effort to get back on so I don't think spinning on itself is going to be an issue.

You could probably decently degrease the metal shaft without taking it off just using a bunch of q-tips dipped in acetone / paint thinner. Or take off the whole assembly and see what your options are then. Sorry can't be of more help.
 
Mine misbehaves only if I park with the tailgate facing the sun. It's reproducible and consistent. Weird.
 
Dissent said:
Mine misbehaves only if I park with the tailgate facing the sun. It's reproducible and consistent. Weird.
Click to expand...

The plastic part is probably getting warm enough to expand slightly and slip on the shaft.
 
blkprj80 said:
The plastic part is probably getting warm enough to expand slightly and slip on the shaft.
Click to expand...
I have a spare latch I'm going to see if I can swap in then fix the old one until the replacement breaks! :P
 
Lankan said:
This part number is for the entire rear hatch lock assembly... the actuator and the mechanical lock itself. Has anyone been able to figure out the Aisin part number (DLT-xxx)?
...
Click to expand...

IIRC, it's the same as one of the rear doors, left? If so, Aisin DLT-088. At ~$40 for a new one, not worth messing with repairing?
 
Tools R Us said:
IIRC, it's the same as one of the rear doors, left? If so, Aisin DLT-088. At ~$40 for a new one, not worth messing with repairing?
Click to expand...
If that's the case, I'll replace it. Thanks Kevin!
 
Can confirm Aisin DLT-088. Rear hatch actuator and the rear left door are the same. I just replaced mine 2 weeks ago. For some reason the rear hatch only locks with the rest of the doors like 75% of the time, but it unlocks 100% of the time. Probably some unwanted friction causing it to not lock sometimes.
 
wrxFTWdey said:
Can confirm Aisin DLT-088. Rear hatch actuator and the rear left door are the same. I just replaced mine 2 weeks ago. For some reason the rear hatch only locks with the rest of the doors like 75% of the time, but it unlocks 100% of the time. Probably some unwanted friction causing it to not lock sometimes.
Click to expand...
Thanks for confirming.
 
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