Rear drum removal-help (1 Viewer)

[Bluzer]

I'm trying to remove the rear brake drum and cannot get the wheel cylinder to back off. I'm just using a screwdriver, like I would on my GM's, but not having any luck.

What am I doing wrong........or what do I need to do right?

And yeah..........I'm a nubie to working on LC's!

Thanks..........

 

[F-junker]

There are many threads here on this topic. Most all specify a BFH. (Big F#$%in' Hammer).
If you can;t get the wheel cylinder loose try and unbolt it from the rear then wack the s*** out of it with a big hammer. they can be tough to get loose but this is really the only way to get them free. I was lucky and only had one sticky drum... BFH and it was done.

 

[75PIG]

I'm new with brakes too. I just got back from Less Schwab (tires and brakes, chain on West Coast) to inspect my FJ-55. He adjusted with a screwdriver.

The LC has two (2) wheel cylinders in each wheel. So, maybe if you didn't know that you have to "adjust" the star adjuster for each wheel to back it off or push them out -- I guess it is quite the "buggar" if you are a newbie like me to do.

I was lucky --- found that I had new cylinders (8 of them, 2/wheel), shoes, and master cylinder done 9 years ago, but the PO had not driven it so only had 800 miles on the brake job (done by Less Schwab -- they remembered the rig).

Hope this helps -- Also, Schwab does not charge for an inspection, and if they are not too busy, they will just do the adjustment for free. I had to pay $54 for the first adjustment, then it "braked" to the right. Took it back today (week later), they pulled the front drums, machined them, adjusted them and it is braking nicely with no pull. They have to spend some time to do it right --- didn't think $54 was too bad -- and I learned something by watching them.

 

[Bluzer]

Thanks.........a combination of loosening the cylinders and the BFH worked!

 

[F-junker]

Bluzer, glad to hear you go them off! check you axle seals while your in there making sure there are no traces of gear oil in there!!! I learned this brake adjustment and bleeding sequence from trial and error.

If your gonna keep the brake drums and not go discs. shoot me a pm, or post up a thread (although there are many threads previously posted. Good Luck Ken

 

[Gundy]

Do yourself a big favor and get the little SST adjusting tool.
MUCH easier than a screwdriver. It doesn't cost very much.
SOR sells them. They don't self adjust and you'll be skinning
a lot of knuckles and buggering the adjusters before too long.
Search this site on adjusting tips before you re-install the new
shoes etc.
It will help a lot.

 

[John McVicker]

Do yourself a big favor and get the little SST adjusting tool.
MUCH easier than a screwdriver. It doesn't cost very much.
SOR sells them. They don't self adjust and you'll be skinning
a lot of knuckles and buggering the adjusters before too long.
Search this site on adjusting tips before you re-install the new
shoes etc.
It will help a lot.

I have that tool from SOR..never liked it & have found a much better substitute, perfect size, perfect tip angle and with a good screw driver size handle.

It is a pry bar from Harbor Freight. To get the correct one it comes in a set of 3 different sizes for like $7.99 for the set. A set pf 3 in a blister pak, black in color, one about 18'', one about 12'', & the correct size one is about 6-7 ''. I found it much eaiser to work with than the SST. I think it's the angle of the tip & it's heft that makes the differencec.

John

 

[grant5127]

I have that tool from SOR..never liked it & have found a much better substitute,

ditto!

 

[Gundy]

I've always been pleased with using the SST adjuster.
I've done the screwdriver thing and even found a nice size I bent
in about a 70 degree angle to help, but, with the tight
areas I found the SST was just the ticket.
Guess that's why they make chocolate and vanilla.
To each his own.