Rear drive shaft Wtf is wrong??

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Joined
Dec 17, 2015
Threads
3
Messages
25
Location
Finland
Hi. Sorry my bad english...
I have toyota engine in my nissan patrol and all works perfecly except that rear drive shaft...
I have adapter plate to nissan diff and 60serie drive shaft. It have new u joints. I have measured pinion and transmission angles with angle finder and adjusted those.
It makes that grrrr sound when you let of the gas.
Its used shaft i have 2 of those machined both have little worn "slide" can it make that grrrr or what is causing it?
I tryed "balance" it with those hous clamps and no change.
Its not the t case, it didnt do that in toyota, or the diff it was quiet before engine swap... :(
Here is video
 
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Do you have lateral movement in the u joints, differential pinion, or transmission flange? There is a place on the 60 series drive shaft that needs to be greased. It's where the yolk slips into the drive shaft. Put the car in gear and try to move those joints. You should feel a little bit of play in the gears of the diff and trans but everything else should stay tight.
 
I have new u joints. No play. Minimal play in slip.
Normal play in t-case and diff.
This is mystery its like the angle is wrong but its not.
Can normal u joint be side ways? I mean nissan diff is on center of axle and toyota transmission output is right hand side. Do it have too mutch angle for normal u joint? I tried double cardan but that was really bad, because i cant get pinion angle to 0°
 
It's possible your u joints are installed incorrectly. This is how the grease fittings should be oriented.

image.webp
 
If your diff and t case are on a different lateral plane I don't see how any drive shaft would work. The t case flange and diff flange need to be in line. And the angle should be as close to zero degrees as possible. If your diff is to the left or right of the t case I don't think it will work.
 
I was wondering if the angle was off from the swap.. 60 to Patrol is a bit of a difference in size right? I see you did measure tho.
 
If your diff and t case are on a different lateral plane I don't see how any drive shaft would work. The t case flange and diff flange need to be in line. And the angle should be as close to zero degrees as possible. If your diff is to the left or right of the t case I don't think it will work.

huh? u joints are designed to make the angle, does it matter whether the angle is up and down or side to side??
63 FJ40's still had a center rear diff and a passenger side transfer output.

that noise in the video is quite loud and sounds metal to metal. I was thinking something was left in the tube when it was welded but I think centrifical force wouldn't allow it to bounce around.
 
huh? u joints are designed to make the angle, does it matter whether the angle is up and down or side to side??
63 FJ40's still had a center rear diff and a passenger side transfer output.

that noise in the video is quite loud and sounds metal to metal. I was thinking something was left in the tube when it was welded but I think centrifical force wouldn't allow it to bounce around.
They compensate to a degree (no pun intended) but if your pinion angle is off and the plane is off then you've compounded the problem at the u joint causing it to bind. At some point the u joint can't take the stress.
 
Its not out of phase i tryed 180° and 90° no change. I have 3 of those drive shaft and 2 of them have made in "driveline shop"
picture.php


picture.php
 
I think you might want to look into cv joints. Maybe I'm wrong but it looks like you're asking the u joints to compensate too much. I didn't realize that the old fj40 had a similar set up to what you're doing but I'm not sure that means it will work here with these modifications.
 
Maybe, i dont know what to do? :D
Or does it sound like t-case? Driving with only front shaft and 4wd on, there is no noise. And tryed without rear drive shaft 2wd no noise.
Want to be sure before spend any more money in to it.
 
Sounds like it's the drive shaft. Maybe the diff?
 
It may be the photos, but it looks like the pinion yoke is pointing towards the output yoke on the transfer case. I believe that this is the proper set up for a double-cardan (a.k.a. "CV") u-joint, but not for standard ones like you have. The yokes should be parallel so that they run at the same angle to the driveshaft. If you have one end pointed up and the other end pointed roughly level, then that could give you vibration with a standard u-joint.

pinion_angle_bad_angles.PNG
 
Okey yes photo is taken when it was out of specs, i tryed differend angles i have adjustable upper control arms. But still no good :(

I tried double cardan shaft it gives very bad vibrations.
picture.php
 
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i tried with home made shaft (way out of balance). Its still there, if you give little gas and let off.

 
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When you put it in neutral can you feel anything grinding in the transfer case?
 
No it feels "normal" :l no movement or slack, no leaks. But it gets pretty hot after driving is that normal? I even change t-case oil yesterday to 85w140
I do not hear clearly where the sound comes from.
But im 100% sure its not the diff.
Here is better picture of pinion angle.
picture.php



the microphone of the phone does not make the "grrr" voice clear.. between 3-8sec it is most clearly and then some whining when accelerate?
 
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Excuse me if I step on toes but the angles just don’t look like this diagram. Your 100% sure you’ve neasured correctly?

2389B358-DB3E-4D0E-88D1-B4007802B726.webp


C83DBE13-4394-46F7-9572-84D376808CAE.webp
 
I will try jeep double cv shaft if that helps
picture.php
I hope that does it for you. I'm not sure what else you could do. Let us know how it goes!
 
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