Rear air how many use it? How do you set yours

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Rear heat only comes out of the center console, rear AC only comes out of the overhead vents. Check rear HVAC controls for air distribution (upper/mix/lower/auto) and temp settings.

Let me rephrase that. It blows really hot air. So hot I think it could melt the rubber mats in the second row if left on for an extended period of time.
 
My rear air blows really cold air so I figure I'll leave it on for a few weeks because it's getting warmer out, this will let The rear air get a little exercise. I haven't run my rear air conditioning forever but I figured letting it work for a few months might be a good thing
 
I HATE how the rear ac controls work and that they are not operable from the front navi screen. It defaults to auto and blasts the rear fan which is really loud and annoying. Anyone relocate the rear control board closer to the front? I've pulled it apart and working on a few different options to bring it to more readily accessible location.
 
I HATE how the rear ac controls work and that they are not operable from the front navi screen. It defaults to auto and blasts the rear fan which is really loud and annoying. Anyone relocate the rear control board closer to the front? I've pulled it apart and working on a few different options to bring it to more readily accessible location.

I have been spending time in the AC section of the FSM and did see the section on testing those controls. Based on the signaling I saw it all looks like basic ohm's law stuff, so relocating should be pretty straight forward - just need to re-route/extend wire harness to your preferred location.
 
Me too, me too. Any leads? Our front AC is very cold, but the rear top vents above 3rd row blows warm. I felt the refrigerant lines under the passenger side bumper and they were warm. I checked the FSM and the high pressure line (skinny one) runs to the front of the car to a manifold before it connects to the condenser. I am not sure there if there is an active switch/valve at the manifold, but the suction line (fat one) is always connected to the compressor and the front system. Since my front AC is cold and the rear is warm I am guessing that the refrigerant is just to not making it to the rear evaporator. Possibly the magnetic expansion valve at the back? Will check that with a meter as best I can. Perhaps my rear cabin temp sensor is not working, but in rear auto the blower is working hard and does adjust speed as the front cools the rest of the car - I surmise.

Does rear A/C (cold air) come out of the third row and second row vents, or just third row. Does second row cool come from the front? Second row vents are above the rear doors.

FSM is 2004. Our LX 470 is 2001. (and black! :))

My findings: my system was low on freon/refrigerant. Adding more did several things: AUX FAN (electric) started working, rear seat air (above 3rd and 2nd rows) started blowing cold - temp same as front.

I added a LOT. 12 oz with dye, and 30 oz regular. Its amazing the front was so cold. I am concerned about leaks now (hence the dye and the UV light I purchased)...but our truck did sit for a year with a short turn on once a month each month 2015-2016.

Between adding the 12 oz can and the 30 oz can I drove it a bit and the rear started to cool better but it took a while to get there. Now with the 30 oz added in, it gets just as cold, but not yet sure on how long it takes to get there.

In the FSM it explains the use of the sight glass. There's a nice table that explains various conditions (see below). Especially useful is the tip about the fluid being clear, then immediately foaming after AC is turned off and then returning to clear. I was able to verify this easily. I am still a little worried that I haven't put enough in...I ran out of freon (after 42 oz!!) but I think I will leave it alone and see how we do. The gauge on the can was just barely in the green...but those gauges are pretty cheap!

I am really glad the electric fan is turning itself on now, with the AC. That might be an easy tell tale sign that your freon is low - fan is supposed to turn on when the freon pressure gets to a certain level. If you have too little it wont get there and the fan wont turn on.

NOTE: when the radiator fan (the big one on the clutch connected to your belts) is really pulling air, it can make it look like the electric fan is on because the blades are turning, but that is really just the air flow inducing rotation, it may not be actually powered! Feel around the sides of the fan to see if its actually pulling air itself or just caught in the draft from the big radiator fan - carefully.

Hope that helps someone.

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Search terms: rear ac, aux fan, freon, R134a, sight glass, ac
 
its loud because it kicks into high speed on the default setting. on medium and low its fine. i plan on making either a entire new box and switches or just relocate the original control unit in the center console. It just a huge piece, and i think it can be made a lot smaller. i havent gotten into the inner workings of it yet or the slide temp mech. Im hoping its just a variable resistor.
 

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