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at some point a quick call to the salvage yard for a used pan may be worth the 5 minutes.
REAL TIME HELP: Stripped bolt removal
- Thread starter hfd crusher
- Start date
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Photoman, I see where you get the handle! You have more photos of obscure stuff! Who the h#*l has a shot of the inside of a tranny fluid pan? You crack me up.
Actually I picked the handle back when I used to travel in the cruiser for photography (see avatar). As far as obscure pictures my cruiser is in pieces so I just walk over, give something a kick to knock the dust off, and take a picture of it when someone needs help.
Bill
Very nice of you. So... What does your truck need to get you back on the road with it?
- Thread starter
- #26
Well I'm going to be giving Dan a call in the morning for a new pan. I pulled mine and the nutsert is intact but the bolt just spins. I'm not comfortable with tapping a bigger hole in the pan and by the time I bought all the tools to do it I'm halfway into the cost of a new pan anyway. Thanks for everyone's input and I'll just look at it as I'm doing a more thorough p.m. than I had planned. :denial:
1/2 way
.....Heck if I reach ~1% I lurch into "justify new tool(s) purchase to the 
" mode....
maybe in your case (or pan) the bolt IS the culprit...
Since the pan is out, maybe use a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel to eliminate the existing bolt from the inside? Then the threads can be inspected on the pan.
I wouldn't waste good money on a new pan. You should be able to hold the nutsert side with a pair of pliers and tighten the bolt down. Then go to Napa and buy a gasket for the tranny pan (about $3), and button her back up. Whenever you do a tranny drain and fill, you'll have to remove the pan (a lot of vehicles don't have drain plugs and have to be done this way), but by using the gasket you don't have to buy FIPG or clean it off the surfaces everytime, so removing the pan isn't that big of deal.
FYI, you don't need to fully torque the drain bolts to spec to begin with. The main objective is to be tight enough so the fluid doesn't leak. Use new washers and back off the torque spec a little. There are a lot of places this can get you a stripped thread (spark plug holes, TB bolts, oil and tranny drain pans), just trying to get that extra couple of pounds of torque. On these type things (in the 15 ft-lb range), I just go for nice and snug, and don't push it.
Rookie2
FYI, you don't need to fully torque the drain bolts to spec to begin with. The main objective is to be tight enough so the fluid doesn't leak. Use new washers and back off the torque spec a little. There are a lot of places this can get you a stripped thread (spark plug holes, TB bolts, oil and tranny drain pans), just trying to get that extra couple of pounds of torque. On these type things (in the 15 ft-lb range), I just go for nice and snug, and don't push it.
Rookie2
- Thread starter
- #30
Grench, Dan's hooking me up with a good price on a new pan so i'm gonna go that route. I'm gonna keep the old pan and play around with it (try to get it right in my spare time to have as a back-up for my rig or somebody else that might need it in the club here in Houston). Thanks for the response and recommendation. Jeff
- Thread starter
- #31
Rookie2, The nutsert on the inside is still welded in place. Me and another mud member(Buckru) tried vise grips and several methods to get this bolt out. The bolt just spins inside the nutsert. We tried drilling the bolt out and had to stop short of damaging the pan, it still doesn't want to come out. I figure I'll get it out at another time and learn how to tap a new hole and just keep it as a spare. No doubt I could save some cash but I feel better about going with the new pan at this time. Thanks for your response. Jeff
I see. When mine stripped, I was lucky it was only the plug threads that stripped. Wedged a screw driver in (as someone else previously mentioned) and was able to turn the bolt out. A pickle fork would probably even work better. Anyhoo, sounds like you've got her figured out.
Regards,
Rookie2