Real Time Help Needed: Major fluid loss at steering knuckle

[e9999]

man, you were lucky, go buy that lottery ticket, quick!


aw, cr@p! I'm already checking these nuts every time I'm under, so now I have to check them twice every time to be sure....?

 

[Bear80]

Are you leaving in the old lower trunion bearing race? I don't see a problem with removing the lower arm as long as the studs are checked and the cone washers are back in and the nuts are torqued properly. Why do you leave it alone?

-B-

I agree with you B. However, the bearings can and have been changed without anything special when the steering arm is left on. The knuckle housing can come off the axle while the arm is attached. I only recommend this because of the number of posts with Brett's issue not long after a re-pack. This does not mean anyone should or that I have skiped over checking the torque during re-assembly or periodically. If I ever pull off the steering arm, new studs would be installed with PLENTLY of loctite. I recommened to Brett that he order eight new studs and we change them on both sides.

 

[BrettinSanAntonio]

So it looks like I need new studs and nuts for the knuckle in addition to the whole birf rebuild kit.

 

[BrettinSanAntonio]

I agree with you B. However, the bearings can and have been changed without anything special when the steering arm is left on. The knuckle housing can come off the axle while the arm is attached. I only recommend this because of the number of posts with Brett's issue not long after a re-pack. This does not mean anyone should or that I have skiped over checking the torque during re-assembly or periodically. If I ever pull off the steering arm, new studs would be installed with PLENTLY of loctite. I recommened to Brett that he order eight new studs and we change them on both sides.

Heck yes. I'm getting all those studs and a gallon of loctite.

 

[-Spike-]

New studs probably won't solve your whole problem. The threads are more than likely damaged on all 4 holes, and you'll be right back here again if you don't fix them.

-Spike

 

[Bear80]

That's a good point Spike. Brett, I'll look into a used housing when I go down to the salvage yards this week.

 

[BrettinSanAntonio]

That's a good point Spike. Brett, I'll look into a used housing when I go down to the salvage yards this week.

Let me know if you want some company. I'll be around the house most of the week.

 

[BrettinSanAntonio]

I assume a "new" housing is the only fix. Is there any way to correctly repair the treads first?

 

[-Spike-]

Personally, I'd Helicoil it.

-Spike

 

[reffug]

I drove mine home that way and found the problem the next morning.

You are very lucky.

So was I in retrospect.

 

[alvarorb]

Wow, you are lucky.
I've seen this before. Yesterday, when I was putting my front end together again, I checked those nuts and I was able to tighten them by 1/4 turn on each one.

When you get new studs, get the ones with torx heads that CDan sells. It makes it a lot easier to tighten the stud to the knuckle. See pic:

Rethread the knuckle. It will make a great trail spare.


Regards

Alvaro

 

[BrettinSanAntonio]

Not a bad idea. I'll purchase a new one or find a knuckle in a salvage yard and repair the old for a spare. I guess this issue isn't as rare as I thought.

 

[Cj80cruiser]

BrettinSanAntonio about how miles did you drive after the axle rebuild before this happened?
Or better yet does anybody know the mileage increments this should be checked and retorqued?

 

[BrettinSanAntonio]

There had been no previous knuckle rebuild. I now check the knuckle bolts every 15K miles.

 

[Bear80]

I'm fairly confedent that the birfs had been done prior on yours Brett. I seriously doubt that factory set studs would fail like that regardles of miles, tire size, or wheeling style. There is always the exception though.

 

[sandcruiser]

I'm in the middle of my axle rebuild and have some questions/opinions

First: Bear80, how do you change the lower trunion bearing w/o taking off the steering arm? I just attacked that beast today and can't see any way to get the race out with the arm in place (you knock it downward to where the arm would be... right?)


Second: I like the theory that doing a birf repack could be part of what leads to issues w/ the knuckle studs. Seems like all the pounding/cleaning and whatnot could help loosen them.

Third: Spare knuckle for the trail? I've never heard of a knuckle housing being the point of failure, except for perhaps the studs stripping out, in which case it would be a lot easier to carry a 4 helicoils and a drill. Especially as the knuckle housing is left/right specific and the helicoils aren't side specific.

ok, hands are tired from the birf work and my brain is tired from reading about grease differences

thanks to all for the information!