Re-Powering my 40?!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Bill McC said:
Another observation: Huge gaps between the pistons and the cylinders. Maybe .5 mm all the way around.
Click to expand...



:hhmm: I wonder if sometime in the past someone had the cylinders bored but didn't get the over size pistons. Did you stick a feeler gauge between the pistons and cylinder wall. I'don't know do they make special rings to handle this or maybe the rings popped out and caused the damage.

This is one area Jim and I don't see eye to eye. I think the stock six hold it's value compared to the V8s. One of the main reason so many were done badly. Here in AZ the over heating problems of the V8s show up real fast. You have to use electric fans make custom shrouds
 
I found the problem or at least the signs of the problem. No oil to the bearings from 2nd cylinder to the 3rd. Pics shortly.
P1010761.webp
P1010762.webp
P1010763.webp
 
Last edited:
Upon further review it looks like #3's connecting rod bearing is the failure point. That heat sure did clean things up however. I checked the free space between the piston and cylinder wall, a business card thickness at least on either side.

The oil pump screen seems clean but there is sludge with metal (old) at the bottom of the pan.

Clutch looks kinda newish.

My does the cruiser look naked without the drive train.
P1010769.webp
P1010765.webp
P1010760.webp
 
Dang, I'd still look at fixing it. :frown:

Not that it has anything to do with it but that head shot is an excellent example of the wrong plugs (lon reach) installed in a F135. Head doesn't look all that bad. If you're going to scrap it you can throw it in my pickup.............no I'm not volunteering to help carry it up anywhere.:D
 
Sparkplugs

Well, all I can say about the plugs are that they were installed by cruiserparts.net. There, I said it. I thought they were long too, but then I thought what do I know? This is my first overhead valve engine. Prior to this I rebuilt a flat head Ford 4 cylinder. Those plugs had only the electrodes sticking out into the combustion chamber. Oh well, no harm done by the plugs. If that extra length was on the flat head it would be bad news indeed.

I will say they are spiffy plugs.:p
Plug close up.webp
 
Last edited:
Cruiser_Nerd said:
From the Part Number Thread Sticky ;) :

Plugs (Short Reach!!) Champion J8C, NGK B6S, ND W14-U
Click to expand...

I just want to make sure the plugs that the shop swapped out are not the wrong kind...

Do most plugs come in short reach?
Would a shop put in the wrong ones by accident?
If so what happens with the longer ones? Mess up the motor?

Sorry this might sound dumb but this is the first time I heard of 135's needing special plugs.

Want to make sure they are correct:D

Maybe I should pull one and post a pic for you all to confirm :)
 
Destin, I don't want to clutter up Bill's thread. ;)

Good Early Plug Thread that I had to search for...there's a funny one in the 40 section too.............:p

In short: Yes, all manufacturers make the proper plug, they can cross the numbers above. Yes, the long reach plugs are routinely installed because of various reasons, including manuals and aftermarket catalogs that are incorrect. Will it damage your engine? I'd rather not find out, but it sure doesn't look good for it. :hillbilly:
 
Plugging Ahead

Ordered a fuel pump and a bunch of stuff for the vacuum shift today. Cleaned up my donor drive shafts. Emptied fuel tank too. Then I said to my self, "Self, let us take a look at the bearings. I did and the pictures, when I take them, will scare the young and tender hearted. Be forewarned.:eek:
 
I am thinking of getting "amaurer" to do his gauge replacement on my dash. So here are pics of the existing set up, front and back.
Gauges1.webp
Gauges2.webp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom