Quick help need - Gturbo Overboosting
- Thread starter Neil826
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Call Graham at Gturbo dude, get it from the source. My new Grunter Extreme pushes the needle out to 28psi real quick so I'll be dialing mine back to 20 to get my AFR down into the readable range. My question is around whether by reducing the preload on the waste gate you will start to experience boost creep.
I hope you have small hands
Where the waste gate actuator attaches to the gate, there is a circlip, remove that and slip the arm off the pin, unlock the locking nut on the threaded part of the actuator arm and unwind it a few threads (count them) lock it back up and refit the arm and circlip. You have just increased the distance between the diaphragm in the waste gate actuator and the waste gate it is actuating by 2mm or so. This will reduce the pre load against the waste gate, allowing it to release at a lower pressure.
I'm sure there are vehicles out there that require the turbo to be taken off the car as there is not much room under there, you'll have to call that one for yourself. I'm interstate at the moment so can't see it from here, but I'm pretty sure mine is doable on the car (1HZ)
Where the waste gate actuator attaches to the gate, there is a circlip, remove that and slip the arm off the pin, unlock the locking nut on the threaded part of the actuator arm and unwind it a few threads (count them) lock it back up and refit the arm and circlip. You have just increased the distance between the diaphragm in the waste gate actuator and the waste gate it is actuating by 2mm or so. This will reduce the pre load against the waste gate, allowing it to release at a lower pressure.
I'm sure there are vehicles out there that require the turbo to be taken off the car as there is not much room under there, you'll have to call that one for yourself. I'm interstate at the moment so can't see it from here, but I'm pretty sure mine is doable on the car (1HZ)
Put a simple bleed valve into the waste gate line..or do as dadinabarrel suggested .
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Manual-B...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item339580ecad
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Manual-B...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item339580ecad
Hey Boosted
Even if you took the boost line completely off, the pre load would determine the lift point. I though that the manual boost controllers acted the other way around. That they were designed to restrict the air to the actuator so it requires more boost to open the gate. The pre load is still the limiting factor.
Even if you took the boost line completely off, the pre load would determine the lift point. I though that the manual boost controllers acted the other way around. That they were designed to restrict the air to the actuator so it requires more boost to open the gate. The pre load is still the limiting factor.
maybe?
Yes correct..I read it too quickly. He wanted less boost than the actuator..I usually want more boost than the actuator, hence the bleed valve.
But yes your minimum boost pressure is going to be based of your actuator pressure.
- Thread starter
- #9
I think I have sovled the problem but its difficult to tell (shining a torch at the gauge lol)
I had changed the waste gate hose to run my controller but I've used the wrong hose. Its much smaller an I'm guessing its collapsing or not allowing enough air though.
Thanks for the info I'll try that tomorrow if its still boosting so high.
I had changed the waste gate hose to run my controller but I've used the wrong hose. Its much smaller an I'm guessing its collapsing or not allowing enough air though.
Thanks for the info I'll try that tomorrow if its still boosting so high.
The same applies going the other way though, if you add more pre load it will lift at a much higher pressure. This is a good way to get more boost from your turbo. Yes, the manual boost controller does the same thing, but my understanding (from Zoltan and others) is that if you up the pre load first you'll get a better result as most turbos are set too low and will tend to leak at the gate (boost creep) as you spool up, affecting the boost response. There are sweet spots and boundaries to a turbo's efficiency so it's all about the correct boost/AFR/EGT combination that can be generated with what you have. It's not the size of the boost, but how you use it hahahaha, I'll have to tell my wife that one
I bought a Banks Big Head Actuator from the States recently that allowed so much pre load, you had to push the actuator out with compressed air to get it over the arm. That's not going to creep!! $250 and I didn't even use it as I ended up buying a Grunter Extreme kit in the end.
Which I'm very happy with.
I bought a Banks Big Head Actuator from the States recently that allowed so much pre load, you had to push the actuator out with compressed air to get it over the arm. That's not going to creep!! $250 and I didn't even use it as I ended up buying a Grunter Extreme kit in the end.
Which I'm very happy with.
Correct. I usually preload the the actuator arm so the diameter of the hole on the actuator arm is the distance from fitting onto the pin on the wastegate flapper.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=Info_wastegate
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I also depends on how strongly the actuator is built (diaphragm and spring strength) One from 5 years ago probably wouldn't hold the same as one of the new high bar ones out there now. That's why one hole out is a good baseline but there still may be more room to move.
My first gturbo had a the wastegate set at 22psi. This was a non adjustable actuator. This would still peak at 24psi before settling down. The only way to decrease the pressure is to put a weaker spring in the actuartor AFAIK.
But why turn the boost down. This will bring down afr's and increase peak egt's. If you can, increase fuel to match and enjoy
But why turn the boost down. This will bring down afr's and increase peak egt's. If you can, increase fuel to match and enjoy
- Thread starter
- #14
Today I found out that it was still over boosting, went home and decided to test the wastegate actuator. Pressurized it with a pump and it barely moved even with 25psi in it. Uh Oh
After a fair bit of looking I discovered this.
The actuator is jammed up hard against the heater hard line.
Gave it a tweak towards the block and now have some clearance. Will report back tomorrow with results.
After a fair bit of looking I discovered this.
The actuator is jammed up hard against the heater hard line.
Gave it a tweak towards the block and now have some clearance. Will report back tomorrow with results.
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Easy enough to change the gauge to a 30psi one, that's what I did, quite costly to change the pump though :-(
Good pickup on the heater tube contact, who installed it?
Good pickup on the heater tube contact, who installed it?
I'm reaching out for Tuning advice!! Something is Sapping the power in the 92 HDJ81, 1HDT
After an engine compartment strip down and cleanup, Installed the new parts:
GTurbo Grunter Extreme 2
3" Exhaust
Timing belt(all new belts and hoses)
rebuilt injectors & timed Injector pump,
Modified Anerod Pin last year-good
Boost Compensator dialed to 18 PSI
Checked Valve clearances- all good
Intercooler installed, but bypassed with stock crosstube till I figure this all out.
The throttle response, in park, is dialed in to decent. Not as snappy as I like, but has very smooth ramp up.
Here is where I may have messed up: I took the WasteGate actuator off the Gturbo for paint(Okinawa rusts anything not painted). I reassembled and there was still preload pressure on the actuator.
The engine has no balls. turbo doesn't ramp up till @ 2000rpm. - it was at 1200(i think). I prefer lower end, as my foot is fuel conscious.
Anyone help is greatly appreciated.
I also ripped out the failing ABS system and have lots of other goodies- but only relevant stuff was listed for now.
After an engine compartment strip down and cleanup, Installed the new parts:
GTurbo Grunter Extreme 2
3" Exhaust
Timing belt(all new belts and hoses)
rebuilt injectors & timed Injector pump,
Modified Anerod Pin last year-good
Boost Compensator dialed to 18 PSI
Checked Valve clearances- all good
Intercooler installed, but bypassed with stock crosstube till I figure this all out.
The throttle response, in park, is dialed in to decent. Not as snappy as I like, but has very smooth ramp up.
Here is where I may have messed up: I took the WasteGate actuator off the Gturbo for paint(Okinawa rusts anything not painted). I reassembled and there was still preload pressure on the actuator.
The engine has no balls. turbo doesn't ramp up till @ 2000rpm. - it was at 1200(i think). I prefer lower end, as my foot is fuel conscious.
Anyone help is greatly appreciated.
I also ripped out the failing ABS system and have lots of other goodies- but only relevant stuff was listed for now.
What did you "tweak"? The Hard line or the actuator?Today I found out that it was still over boosting, went home and decided to test the wastegate actuator. Pressurized it with a pump and it barely moved even with 25psi in it. Uh Oh
After a fair bit of looking I discovered this.
The actuator is jammed up hard against the heater hard line.
Gave it a tweak towards the block and now have some clearance. Will report back tomorrow with results.
@Munchichi
Maybe you should start your own thread or post in the 1hd-t fuel pump tuning thread for a better chance of help. This thread is three years old.
Maybe you should start your own thread or post in the 1hd-t fuel pump tuning thread for a better chance of help. This thread is three years old.