Quick gear ratio Question please

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I would rather have 4.88's with 35's, but thats just my preference :) I would rather keep the RPMs slightly lower on the highway, and use the tcase gearing on the trails. Plus the 4.88s will be stronger.
 
well if I could find 3rd with 4.88 I would be ok with it but it seems everyone runs the 5.29's on the trail in F-toys and any other good trail rig.
And I have a Jeep with 37's on it and i want 40'' or 42'' tires on it .. So I could kinda save some money if I put the the 37's from the Jeep on the Yota
I dono just some thoughts


And here is a pic of the Jeep ... This 4x4 thing is like an addiction:cheers::beer:
RiveRock.webp
 
ohhh, well... Then V6 chunk (NOW you can use 5:71's!) that bad boy and get on with it! :flipoff2: :lol:


DANG that thing looks clean! Hi steer and u-bolt flip...


Whats with the V6 chunk?? :idea: Its has a larger pinion gear?? And it fits right on the rear 94 axle and the front 81 axle??
Please do tell as far as im conserned if I gonna run with 37x13.50on17's a lil more gear can't hurt
 
Whats with the V6 chunk?? :idea: Its has a larger pinion gear?? And it fits right on the rear 94 axle and the front 81 axle??
Please do tell as far as im conserned if I gonna run with 37x13.50on17's a lil more gear can't hurt



That's it ;)

I don't have the figures in front of me but it's like they're 30% larger than a std 4cyl. diff. Larger pinion and bearings I think. And like I said I don't have the figures in front of me but the ring gear could be thicker to.

Erik's Toyota Differential info

They fit right in, no probs.


To run 37's, IMO you'll need Marfields and Longfields and unless you get stronger axle shafts, you'll be popping inners instead of the joints.


Your front axle is an 81? You need to weld on some gussets.


And just so you know, you can retrofit Tacoma E-Lockers in those diffs to, but IMO you'll be breaking them. IMO, they're not as strong as ARB's.


Here's what 5:71's look like

571 gear strength

NOTE: There are some blanket statements in that link but I've read it and it doesn't say which diff he used. This most certainly IS NOT THE CASE depending on which diff you use.


God I wish we could get Simex tires!!!
 
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That's it ;)

I don't have the figures in front of me but it's like they're 30% larger than a std 4cyl. diff. Larger pinion and bearings I think. And like I said I don't have the figures in front of me but the ring gear could be thicker to.

Erik's Toyota Differential info

They fit right in, no probs.


To run 37's, IMO you'll need Marfields and Longfields and unless you get stronger axle shafts, you'll be popping inners instead of the joints.


Your front axle is an 81? You need to weld on some gussets.


And just so you know, you can retrofit Tacoma E-Lockers in those diffs to, but IMO you'll be breaking them. IMO, they're not as strong as ARB's.


Here's what 5:71's look like

571 gear strength

NOTE: There are some blanket statements in that link but I've read it and it doesn't say which diff he used. This most certainly IS NOT THE CASE depending on which diff you use.


God I wish we could get Simex tires!!!

Nice thats really good info thanks
 
You're welcome...

Got any pics of your truck from the side?
 
I was running 4cyl 3rd's in my 4runner for years, and last year alone I blew 3 R&P's. So I decided to upgrade to the v6....I couldnt believe the difference between the two side by side on the bench. the housing is atleast 50% thicker, as is the mounting flange, it weighs alot more that the 4cyl, the bearings are bigger, the bearing supports and caps are bigger, and the carrier itself is a 2 piece so it doesnt need the spider access windows, so it is solid and closed. And since the main killer of 8" r&P's is carrier deflection all those thigs are good!!!!! IMO

Also on a side note, I yanked my trusty (seriously) 3.0 and dropped in a 3.4, and didnt need the 5.29's on the street anymore and wanted 4.88's. And since it seems like no one (except maybe motive) is making gears worth a s*** these days, I decided to find some of the factory Toyota 4.88 v6 3rds. If you dont know, 4runners 92-95 (and some PU's i believe) came with an offroad package, with the auto, 31's, 4.88's. These are, for some reason, notoriously strong!!! they seem to be stronger than normal v6's and I have not heard of anyone breaking one (though im sure it has happened). They factory setups, and properly broken in. And I picked them up for $100 a piece, and that was 2 complete rear axle housings. Ill see how long they last.

NOTE:
These 3rds cannot accept any after market gear or any other factory ratio. Because the gears are odd, the ring is very narrow, not sure why, maybe the carrier is bigger.....so if you blow a gear set, you just go to the junkyard throw down a benjamin, and get strong factory setup 4.88's.
 
The SAS was done just over a month ago and I've had to make some changes to make it work, I ordered the 3'' kit from TG and after it was in the front went up a good 6-7 inches :doh: so we took out the xtra leaf in the front spring pack that brought it down about 2'' then put 5'' of block in the rear its almost level now the back seems slightly lower still but it will work for now.
As soon as I can get the xtra funds I will do the rear suspension the right way and put the leaf back in the front .... but then the 33''s will look silly .so hopefully i'll be able to get the 37's on it at that time ,,, I just dono
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ToyotaSideView2.webp
 
I can get some better pics soon .. for some reason these pics don't look as good as the truck really looks

I can't wheel it right now the pitman arm is kinda close to the high steer rod other than that I really like how it looks and rides , I think it will look really bada** when the 37's are on it and all lifted the right way.
 
I ordered the 3'' kit from TG and after it was in the front went up a good 6-7 inches


Yeah, that's why I kinda don't like the Weld on new hangers...

Good because it keep arch out of the spring, which can go towards better droop, but I don't like them b/c that blows all I want to lift it right there. That weld on hanger lifts it 1.5" or 2", alone. They should stress that more in the marketing IMO.


Thanks for the pics. I like to think I'll get me some 33/10.50's on my truck('s?) one day. I love tall skinnies b/c I feel you don't need all that contact patch and it might keep breakage down.

I was gonna tell you also why I made that little Simex comment, and that Tacoma E-Lockers in case you're wondering are V6 diffs...

Simex makes some wickedly narrow tires. I'm sure a E-Locker would live longer if it didn't have a foot of contact patch at the end of 37" tall tires...

I might go for tall skinnies on E-Lockers but not so much if the tires are closer to a foot wide... Then I'd go to ARB's...


FFT, If you want to see what tall skinny "pizza cutters" look like on a Yota, or what your truck will look like with 37's

Hit YouTube up. I spotted a few yesterday searching.

Also try Hilux or Surf, instead of Toyota Mini or 4Runner.


toyota pickup SAS 37 bogger and check out the related vids...
 
you may need to move the steering box forward to get the pitman arm/draglink, out of the tie-rod. or a different pitman arm. are you sure they hit....they may "look close" but as the suspension compresses the axle/tie rod, swings back and out of the way. at ride height my draglink interupts the verticle plane of my tierod, but it never hits it. And i am LOW for a sas'ed 4runner, 22" frame height on 37's.
 
Yeah the 37's that I have are going to be a lil wider than I want I like the look of having a lil of the tire wider than the body so the 13.5 wide tire may go out to much then I like, but unless i keep them on the Jeep and just get some new 37/12.50on15 tires witch I have not even looked for ,, dono if that size is hard to find in a good rock/mud tire, so instead of buying new tires all I need is new 17'' steelies for the Yota and it can save me a few bucks
 
Yeah the 37's that I have are going to be a lil wider than I want I like the look of having a lil of the tire wider than the body so the 13.5 wide tire may go out to much then I like,

what kind of tires are they?
 
you may need to move the steering box forward to get the pitman arm/draglink, out of the tie-rod. or a different pitman arm. are you sure they hit....they may "look close" but as the suspension compresses the axle/tie rod, swings back and out of the way. at ride height my draglink interupts the verticle plane of my tierod, but it never hits it. And i am LOW for a sas'ed 4runner, 22" frame height on 37's.

Well the pitman arm is about 1 1/2'' above the tie rod and at a side view it looks like it could hit but it would be close .. So if your flexin you say the side that goes up, goes up and back?
If so then im good.:cheers:

WOW 22'' frame height and 37'' bada** .
Can you post some pics???:popcorn:
Im at 23'' frame height I took the measurement bottom of the frame rail at about middle of the truck
 
Been happy with them so far, but haven't gotten out on the trail with them yet. Waiting to install my 30 spline longs and lockers before I go out again. Winters been slowing the build down a bit :)

All of the reviews have been good, the KM2 tires also sound pretty good.
 
Well the pitman arm is about 1 1/2'' above the tie rod and at a side view it looks like it could hit but it would be close .. So if your flexin you say the side that goes up, goes up and back?
If so then im good.:cheers:

WOW 22'' frame height and 37'' bada** .
Can you post some pics???:popcorn:
Im at 23'' frame height I took the measurement bottom of the frame rail at about middle of the truck

Yes it swings back and yours will swing back at a faster rate than mine even will because it looks like your shackles are close to 90*, mine are less than 45*

I dont have many pics of it just sitting there unflexed, but I found a couple boring crapping pics :D

DSC04213.jpg


Picture072-1.jpg
 
:cool: Thats cool i've always been a fan of low and slow with big tires but not to big so you can't use all the flex, Nice rig:flipoff2:

How do ya like the pitbull tires? and is that exocaged beast a daily driver?
 
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