Questions on restore

[Scott R]

First off I can't tell you all how elated I am to have found this message board! For starters on a whim I purchased two FJ40's at once a few weeks back, one 74 with a bent frame, and one 72 with cancer, however both a complete in the parts department. (Sorry this is gonna be a long post.)

First I have dismantled the 74 and boxed all of it up, with exception of the larger parts like the tranny and axel housing. Imagine my surprise when I found that the 72 had a Chevy 292 in it! Anyway the 292 will not work for what I want to do, it needs a car, manifold and header to be any good, and even then I don't want it. So I pulled it and then pulled the tub off of the 72 to start sand blasting the frame. That’s now done and the frame is coated with POR15 and all shiny and new again. Here is where I hope you guys can help me out:

1. I have a 87 Chevy 350 TBI that I am going to drop in place of the 292, will I need to cut the advanced adapters mounts out and weld them in a new location? So far it does not appear that they will need to be moved, but I understand that placement of the V8 is crucial for cooling.

2. Drum brakes? YIKES! What’s the best way to convert the FJ40 to front disc? I looked around for a later from axel, and everyone I asked laughed at me!

3. Looked around and I can't find a good supplier for the OEM paint, I have a delightful forest green color (in places,) and I found the paint codes, but I want OEM, know where to get it?

4. Undercoating - What should I use? I have already cut a good portion of the tub out and replaced it with new sheet metal, I know how to prime the new sheet I installed, however how I keep the rest of the rig from rusting away?

Sorry for posting such a large message, and I could probably go one for a while longer, but I need help! Also I have tons of parts available, I may post a lengthy inventory if I have time in the classified section.

 

[Bennett]

Where are you .. I know someone looking for a 292

 

[Pinion]

Check the Tech Link at the top of the page.

 

[TJDIV]

Check the Tech Link at the top of the page.

Agreed,


Research here: http://www.ih8mud.com/cruisertech.php


and post pics. we like pics.

 

[JohnL]

Welcome, glad to have another join!

As commented, check the Tech links and search function.

My $0.02 on the undercoating is POR-15 silver, followed by black, followed by Chassis black.

Use a local paint shop for supplies. You can find the original colors at www.autocolorlibrary.com Colors are shown in the first year available, so for a 74, you might have to go back a few years before 74 to find the color.

I've had very good results with PPG's line and Strong Blue looks great, but don't paint it that color 'cause I don't like seeing others like mine!

 

[Scott R]

Yea, I have been crusing though that link all morning, guess I need to look some more. Also I am in and around Denver Coloroado for anyone wanting parts.

BTW, The 292 I have has excellent compression across the board, it comes complete with alternator , fuel pump MSD ignition, everything thats bolted to it now sans the bellhousing and flywheel that I need.

Will get some pics up tonight, have to go pick up a 4 speed tranny then I shoot some film.

 

[nspctr1]

congrats on your find. On the paint there are a couple of other boards that have the oem info, www.jtoutfitters.com and www.ccot.com I am not sure which has it but you can check the sites anyway. On the motor mount location you will want to make sure you have distributor clearance from the firewall and work from there.. then you will need to decided if your going with PS and which setup because that will help you decide what header/exhaust manifold option you need to go with. On the disc brakes, find a toyota mini truck , check the tech section, I got one from a 84, pull it apart, the parts you will want to keep are listed in the tech section. hope this helps. Not sure how fast you are looking for these parts but, I have the mini conversion with a complete rebuild kit I may sell, probably gonna part my 71 with a v8 setup.

 

[Steve C]

"OEM paint"?

No offence intended, but I would suggest that OEM paint is exactly what you don't want. Paint's come a long way in the last 30 years, and there's no reason not to take advantage of a modern paint. I used ppg dp40lf epoxy primer and ppg dcc( I think) acrylic urethane. The epoxy primer goes on to the bare metal, then filler (if needed) on top of the primer, then reprime then topcoat. The topcoat can be wet sanded and buffed to get rid of any insects that landed. Be careful though, most good paints have isocyanates, and need a supplied air respirator to be safe.

 

[Scott R]

"OEM paint"?

No offence intended, but I would suggest that OEM paint is exactly what you don't want. Paint's come a long way in the last 30 years, and there's no reason not to take advantage of a modern paint. I used ppg dp40lf epoxy primer and ppg dcc( I think) acrylic urethane. The epoxy primer goes on to the bare metal, then filler (if needed) on top of the primer, then reprime then topcoat. The topcoat can be wet sanded and buffed to get rid of any insects that landed. Be careful though, most good paints have isocyanates, and need a supplied air respirator to be safe.

With the exception of the PPG Ultra line I am not a big fan of their products. I do shoot a few cars a year and therefore I have a dustfree paint booth set up at home. I like the look of the OEM finishes, older urethayne paint still has a classic look to it IMHO. However if it's really not all that good of paint quality then I may go after Glasurit instead. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Scott R]

congrats on your find. On the paint there are a couple of other boards that have the oem info, www.jtoutfitters.com and www.ccot.com I am not sure which has it but you can check the sites anyway. On the motor mount location you will want to make sure you have distributor clearance from the firewall and work from there.. then you will need to decided if your going with PS and which setup because that will help you decide what header/exhaust manifold option you need to go with. On the disc brakes, find a toyota mini truck , check the tech section, I got one from a 84, pull it apart, the parts you will want to keep are listed in the tech section. hope this helps. Not sure how fast you are looking for these parts but, I have the mini conversion with a complete rebuild kit I may sell, probably gonna part my 71 with a v8 setup.

I have a mini-truck front end as of this morning, I found a breaker yard that had one sitting around. The conversion looks difficult, however not entirely impossible. I come from the world of restoring old Porsche's mainly and I had never even seen a birfield joint until a few weeks ago. It's quite a daunting looking abject in its complexity. I would be interested in your already assembeled axel, I would be looking to drop it in in a few weeks once I get the tub painted and assembeled.

 

[DocB]

In Amarillo, Tx: 7 hrs southeast of Denver: I have cruiser axles from a 77, front and rear, sitting in my backyard under snow right now. The front is sans calipers and needs complete rebuilt, but is usable and would be a good swap ; sounds like you are involved in a long term rebuild anyway. I would let these be rescued cheap if you want to make a suicide run to Texas; just wait for the snow to melt. Also have a 4 speed tranny from an 82 FJ60 which might work for you.

 

[CruisinGA]

I have a mini-truck front end as of this morning, I found a breaker yard that had one sitting around. The conversion looks difficult, however not entirely impossible. I come from the world of restoring old Porsche's mainly and I had never even seen a birfield joint until a few weeks ago. It's quite a daunting looking abject in its complexity. I would be interested in your already assembeled axel, I would be looking to drop it in in a few weeks once I get the tub painted and assembeled.

The conversion is not difficult, just a matter of having a torque wrench and following the manual.

i would recommend purchasing at least a Haynes manual, Toyota FSM is much better. Follow the writeups in the tech link for converting to minitruck disks and you will not have a problem.

the minitruck birfield and lockouts are stronger than those of the '77 cruiser. The different steering arm bolt pattern is also better supported in the aftermarket.

Both of those points are null if you truck is mainly for street.

 

[Scott R]

Well I purchased a 4 speed this afternoon, specifically a 4 speed converted to work with my three speed early T-case, lucky find for me. Bad news is I can't find decent mini truck parts anywhere near Denver, looked at a mini truck front end and the guy had it torn down to nothng, then he didin't want to part out the already torn apart pieces. Maybe I am just cheap!

 

[CruisinGA]

84-85 4runners will work, as will 79-83 FJ40's-actually your best choice, as those will bolt up to your current tie rod-(the minitruck arms require an adaptor shim), and have vented rotors which minitrucks do not.

 

[Scott R]

What about the kit that JT Outfitters sells? I have a two excellent drum fron ends, no play and no slop. Bolting caliper brackerts on would seem like an ideal way to go, only downside seems to be the cost.

 

[CruisinGA]

What about the kit that JT Outfitters sells? I have a two excellent drum fron ends, no play and no slop. Bolting caliper brackerts on would seem like an ideal way to go, only downside seems to be the cost.

Regardless of how tight they are, if your drum front ends have not been serviced, (likely), then the grease lubricating the birfield is probably deteriorated, and/or mixed with gear oil. Drain the oil in the front diff to get an idea, the more grease thats in the diff oil, the less grease thats in the knuckles.

I am not a fan of the bolt on disk kits, you do not reap any of the benefits of a minitruck/late cruiser disk swap such as larger/stronger birfields (which are fine spline), the associated stronger lockouts, and general better aftermarket support. (steering arms and treated birfields). They are also much more expensive.

For a streeted cruiser, they're ok, IMO you are better off to perform a full knuckle rebuild substituting minitruck/late cruiser knuckle parts for the equivalent drum brake part.