Question on stock ride height suspension options...

[efjayatee]

I'm currently using Pedders (Aussie brand), shocks and springs at standard height. Both are stiffer than factory, and I do not get any noticeable sag in the rear. It just rides horrendously over bumps, but that may be due to the older KM2 Goodrich Mud Tyres, which have incredibly stiff sidewalls, and while mine have tonnes of tread left, they were manufactured back in 2012, so the rubber will be getting harder with age. I've had 2 back surgeries, and drive on country rodes, so would love something more complaint.

Then you need shocks with resovoirs where you can dial it in to your liking

 

[RubyCruiser]

The Tokico shocks with the dobs springs gives you the right combo of firmness on the streets and cushions impacts when bombing through "whoopies" sanddune trails. I also installed a whiteline thicker rear swaybars with landtank brackets so the ride hugs the corners with minimal body roll.
If you want stock height and to be able to tow, think about doing airbags in the rear. Otherwise you will need a puck in the rear but you will get a stink bug look when not loaded.

How’s this setup holding up for you? I have new OEM/Tokico’s but OEM springs currently bumped up with 30mm spacers all around. So thinking new Dobinsons stock height springs may give me about the same “lift” as I currently have. Although I’m due for new tires and wondering if I can bump up to 295/75r16’s in place of my current 285’s w/out it looking stuffed.

 

[efjayatee]

No complaints. It's better than the sagging suspension it came with.
The dobs stock height will net you 1". IMO...295s will look better than 285s filling out the gaps.

 

[Montana Cruiser]

The Tokico shocks with the dobs springs gives you the right combo of firmness on the streets and cushions impacts when bombing through "whoopies" sanddune trails. I also installed a whiteline thicker rear swaybars with landtank brackets so the ride hugs the corners with minimal body roll.
If you want stock height and to be able to tow, think about doing airbags in the rear. Otherwise you will need a puck in the rear but you will get a stink bug look when not loaded.

I like the idea of minimizing the body roll without moving to a stiffer spring. What is your thoughts on upgrading just the rear swaybar vs doing both? Is that more about reducing roll with a load in the back?

 

[efjayatee]

Front no need....I had LCP front sway bar disconnect kit n OEM factory front sway bar and had it disconnected for 6 months and drove alright.
I have whiteline 30mm rear sway bar with both LCP HD sway bracket and Landtank sway bracket on all my 3 fzj80.
That combo will fix you body roll. You will notice how planted on your 1st turn. I can take corners w/out worrying.

 

[Montana Cruiser]

Front no need....I had LCP front sway bar disconnect kit n OEM factory front sway bar and had it disconnected for 6 months and drove alright.
I have whiteline 30mm rear sway bar with both LCP HD sway bracket and Landtank sway bracket on all my 3 fzj80.
That combo will fix you body roll. You will notice how planted on your 1st turn. I can take corners w/out worrying.

View attachment 4086123View attachment 4086124

Added to the ever growing list

 

[efjayatee]

Added to the ever growing list

Then add a Turbo to the list from Cruisers and Company

 

[Montana Cruiser]

Then add a Turbo to the list from Cruisers and Company

That is absolutely on the list .... just a ways down it while I save the $$ for it. Living at 4500ft and going up to Tahoe often, that turbo would be nice!

 

[efjayatee]

Justdo it!