Question about my new fridge CF50

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 9, 2006
Threads
46
Messages
1,274
Location
East Texas
I am leaving on a trip in less than 2 weeks. I just received a new Dometic (same as Waeco) CF50 to use on the 10 day trip. I have never owned a 12v fridge so I am not sure how they should act.

It arrived with no evidence of damage. All the packaging looked great. I plugged it in to 110v first and set the temperature on 35*. The inside of the unit was about 75*F when I unpackaged it. Within 30 minutes of plugging it in, the temp inside was down to 31*. I left it plugged in over night and the next day and the temp evened out at a steady 35* like I had set it. All is well so far.

Sunday morning, I placed it in the rear of my 2001 LC. Years ago I did the jumper wire trick where all of my power outlets are constant on. I plugged it in to the rear outlet on the drivers side. I am pretty sure I had power because the temperature LED light lit up. When I placed it in the rear of the truck, the temp of the fridge was 35*. A few hours later it was 44*. This doesn't seem right.

I have read and understand about adding a dedicated plug back there for it and running larger wire to that location. I am not asking about that here. That is a future project. According to the manufacturer, the draw is 45w and the outlet says on it that it is rated for 120w. Surely it can run the fridge temporarily while I check out that it is actually functioning on 12v.

I am just wondering if this is normal behavior for this unit? I thought it would be better to cool it down using 110v, then thought it should easily maintain the temp with 12v. Is there any tests I can run to make sure it is actually working on the 12v system?

Any insight would be great.
 
Heavy wire, and check the switch that cuts off the fridge when the batt. gets low.
 
Is that with the engine running or engine off?

My wife's LX450 won't run the fridge (from the stock cigarette lighter outlet) unless the engine is running.

My 60 won't run the fridge from the lighter outlet period. I had to run a dedicated circuit and it works fine.
 
Assuming you have full time power (and a healthy battery) or the truck was running when the temperature went up, my guess would be either the OEM wiring can't carry the load or you have a bad fridge. You could test the fridge on 12v by wiring a short connection to the battery. I ran a single dedicated circuit to the battery and my fridge works fine.
 
I have a heavy guage jumper wire in the fuse block under the hood that causes my power outlets to stay hot even without the key on. I have a Blue Sea double USB port that I charge my phone with. It has a small green LED light that shines when there is power. I plugged that into the rear outlet and the LED lit up so I know it had power when I plugged it in.

I plugged in the CF50 and left it for several hours. During that time, the temp climbed 9*.

I am wondering out loud here. If I get out of the 100 series and leave the headlights on, they will go off after a certain number of minutes. Same with the interior lights. Do you think my power outlets might be the same way?
 
If you have the outlets jumped to stay on all the time, they should stay on full time.

I suspect your battery is getting run down and/or the OEM wiring can't handle the load. I'd start monitoring the battery voltage when the truck is sitting.
 
Back
Top Bottom