Pushrod Cover Gasket replaced W/pics (1 Viewer)

[Tenzig Norgay]

After replacing the valve cover gasket a few weeks ago in my 92 LC, I decided I would dig a little deeper into the 3FE and replace the pushrod cover gasket. The engine was covered with a thick layer of sludge, and after 17 years the gasket was probably leaking. The new part was only $9.15 from CDan, how hard could this be?

I started by removing the whole air intake assembly from the throttle body to the air fiter lid, disconecting the MAF electrical connector and vacumn lines. Next I pulled the oil filter and distributor cap with all plugs and breather lines still attached. After noting the position of the rotor and the dizzy housing itself, I removed the distributor and tied back any more electrical/vacumn/fuel return lines. With all this out of the way, I could see there was no way the pushrod cover would come out without first removing the PS pump and bracket, AC compressor and bracket and AC Idler pulley.

With everything out of the way, I could gently pry/cut the top half of the pushrod cover gasket, then, with lots of finger strength, a rocking motion, gentle pry bar and cats paw action, and lots of colorful language, the pushrod cover finally came off. This was by far the hardest, most hunched over PITA ordeal of the whole project. The next biggest PITA was cleaning the gasket off of the head and cover(most of it was on the cover thank goddness).

Once everything was cleaned up, the new gasket and cover went on much easier than it came off. It is held on by 10 bolts and 2 nut/studs, the gasket and cover hang from the studs while you fish the bolts in and through the gasket, working it all into place. Put the dizzy back in, cap and plugs, new oil filter, reconnected the air intake and all vacumn/electrical lines. Mounted up the PS bracket and PS pump, changed oil, reconnected the battery, and......it started like it was never apart.

Even if the gasket wasn't leaking(I'm sure it was though) I'm glad I went in there and cleaned 17 years of crude away from the 3FE. What is that down there, an oil cooler? I replaced some broken split loam, and taped up some exposed electrical lines as well. Spreading the job out over the weekend, it took about 15 hours. Noticed I have more power since I cut the AC belt and left the compressor/Idler pulley/mount out for now, which reminds me.......

Is the AC mount used as a stiffener? It mounts high on the block and back down on the frame. Should i throw it back in or is it not needed?

1st pic...Rotor and dizzy position noted. How lucky for me!
2nd pic...Dirty pushrod cover
3rd pic...All cleaned up

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

And some more pics

1st pic...cover and new gasket on
2nd pic...Halfway back together
3rd pic...Everthing back in, well, kinda. Notice the missing AC line

Next on the hit list, the oil pan gasket or that damn shakey rear view mirror, why didn't I do that first?

 

[CJF]

Nice write-up; thanks!

What is that down there, an oil cooler?

Yes, and it can be a source of oil/coolant cross contamination.

I've got a question for you: How much of what you removed, and how much more would have to be removed, to get that cooler off?

Curtis

 

[darrelwallac]

Thanks for a great write up. I wonder how much of the dirty oily gunk on the engine could be caused by this gasket leaking on mine...

 

[Russ in California]

Nice job. Just did mine too. You just don't know how much easier a job this is with the engine out. Lucky me?

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

Thanks guys, after hours of hunched over wrenching I'm glad someone noticed, and hope this can be of use to 3FE owners thinking of tackling this project. I bet a make-up tray mod with dual sippy cup holders, 4 switches and multi colored LED background lighting would have had a better turn out.

I've got a question for you: How much of what you removed, and how much more would have to be removed, to get that cooler off?

Curtis

I think you could probably get the oil cooler off without having to take anything else off. You could remove the upper and lower water lines, then it looks like you could access the mounting bolts pretty easy, you may have to move a few vacumn lines to the side to make room for a wrench. I really have no idea, but I can see it a lot better now that its cleaned off.

I'm in the process of cleaning off the AC mount, gonna paint it yellow and throw it back on. It really looks like a stiffening bracket for the engine, and I'd rather not torque the engine off its mounts with my new found horse power.

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

Heres a shot of the painted AC mount/stiffener. Took off both AC pulleys as well. It sure looks nice and its a little easier getting in there to change the oil filter or what not . You won't be getting any AC NOT WORKING threads from me.

GOT YELLOW!

 

[1991GXL80]

Many thanks for a great write up.
I did my pushrod cover gasket over the weekend, 2 days work and plenty of creative language. Such a big job for a $10 gasket. I did find navigating the cover around the water pump a bit of a pain, maybe I should have taken the opportunity to replace that at the same time .

Just need to re-do the timing now, that timing hole is a piece of cake to see when half the engine is sitting on the ground next to the car, not so when it's all back together.

Cheers.

 

[1991GXL80]

Timing done. runs well with new leads, dizzy cap, rotor and plugs.

Setting the timing was easier than I thought it would be, once I installed the dizzy correctly the second time. I found standing on a small step ladder, chin on battery, looking under the airflow meter/hose between 2 of the lead plugs on the dizzy with arm over the air hose, timing light in hand and a torch in the other hand....... found a window of sight about the same size as the timing hole.... fun and games... once timing light flashin on timing mark drop torch from right hand and adjust dizzy... EASY!

Some swearing, but less than anticipated.

Cheers

 

[Aggiesdm]

Holy thread revival

My 3FE is so filthy down the right side of the motor and the only think I can find determine that is leaking is the dang push rod cover. I think I'm gonna have to tackle this at some point in the near future. It bugs me so much to have a gunked up engine...I don't lose any noticeable amounts of oil and it doesn't affect performance, but dang...every time I work on her I come back looking like I've been working in the oil field all day long.

Anyway, thanks for the right up and hopefully your experience will make it quicker for me. I recently had that whole side take apart to put in new cap, rotor, wires, plug and dizzy o-ring (had to reposition the dizzy about 5 times), so I'm pretty familiar with the process. Taking the PS pump and bracket will be a new part though. Wish me luck.

 

[thisyotaman]

So if I remove the head and dizzy the timing will be off? Is there a way I can mark the cap or dizzy to be back at nominal timming?
I'm in the process of doing a head job and I'm sure the dizzy has to come off. I'm also going to do this pushrod gasket while the head is off. I'm wondering can I clean the pushrod assembly while I'm there ? I had major sludge in the head so I'm sure they're all in there too
.

 

[bsang]

Another revival...

I'm in the process of replacing the pushrod cover gasket. I keep seeing to use RTV or some form of liquid gasket with the cork gasket. How are you guys applying it? RTV all the way around, and on both sides of the cork gasket?

thanks

 

[John McVicker]

bsang, the best thing for you to do is to go the FAQ of the fj40 section on MUD. Look for Poser's comments on how to install the side cover gasket. Great instructions. He uses a product called Gaskacinch (sp) which is good stuff and readily available.

 

[Jedda]

Another revival...

I'm in the process of replacing the pushrod cover gasket. I keep seeing to use RTV or some form of liquid gasket with the cork gasket. How are you guys applying it? RTV all the way around, and on both sides of the cork gasket?

thanks

I can assure you DO NOT PUT RTV ON A CORK GASKET...clean the area and put on dry ..RTV and cork a no no..