Purple Ice? (1 Viewer)

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Mar 26, 2015
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Has anyone used Purple Ice as an additive to their coolant in order to help lower their temps? I have a 1978 FJ40 and live in not only a hot weather environment but a high humidity environment as well. On really hot and humid days my engine runs hot.

I swapped out the fan clutch for a new OEM fan clutch and that did nothing to lower the temps. Right now I am doing a very thorough radiator and cooling system cleaning. Ironically I've been running just water the last 2 days with the cleaning agent and the engine has been running cooler but I know water is bad long term. So when I go to flush the system again tomorrow for the 3rd time upon fill up I was considering adding Purple Ice as well.

All the reviews I am reading and watching seem to be pretty solid, however, they are with respects to newer vehicles with aluminum radiators and aluminum cooling components.

I do not know what metals the FJ40 radiator is made from but I am guessing steel and copper cores? I know new aftermarket radiators are made from aluminum and this is where the Purple Ice seems to excel.

Anyone have any experience using Purple Ice?
 
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Using a 70/30glyycol antifreeze gives better heat transfer/ higher boiling point and a freezing point of -80f. Was your fluid real bad?hows the thermostat, opening all the way. Don't know about purple ice at all. Prestone I know and trust also other brands at parts sources down the street. They won't react with the steel and rust it like water alone
 

Spike Strip

Just Soup for my Family
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I use water wetter. They all work as surfactants that are supposed to increase the heat transfer through the radiator. They work. Different brands also have rust inhibitors.
 
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Well, since you have a 1978, it would be 39 years old at this time. A lot of crud can build up over time in the actual block, which you are trying to cool. You can add a 4 row radiator and it may help, but when these were designed , a 4 row was not needed. If the block is truly unrestricted, heat transfer should be easy. If you are struggling with cooling, you can go to a 4 row aluminum but keep in mind is the cooling fluid really cooling the block properly. ( I used a harbor freight IR device to look all over the metal block to get a feel for hot/cold areas , and sure as daylight comes up, some spots were real hot and a flush was required. Not just a flush , BUT AN ACID FLUSH because the crud was hard as hell.)
 
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if you have done three flushes all ready have you looked at doing a chemical conversion with something like Thermocure. if done right it will clear your galleries in one run.
 
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if you have done three flushes all ready have you looked at doing a chemical conversion with something like Thermocure. if done right it will clear your galleries in one run.


Wow, I wish I knew of this a long time ago. Thanks for the product tip.
 
Joined
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if you have done three flushes all ready have you looked at doing a chemical conversion with something like Thermocure. if done right it will clear your galleries in one run.
What effect does something like that have on old radiators? I have been using distilled water and coolant since a rebuild years ago so not concerned about mine. Just wondering. However I could have used something like that for MY arteries a while back.
 

RockDoc

I'll take Bruce Vilanch for the block.
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I'm assuming this stuff is a "water wetter" that cuts surface tension much the same as what RedLine (?) markets? When I first read on mud about people using this stuff, I did a quick search and as I recall I it is a non-foaming surfactant. Like Jet Dry...

I ran a bit of Jet Dry in my coolant for a time. I recall that the coolant temp seemed to rise from the normal position on the gauge faster when really working the engine, and return faster after the crest of a hill. Which would seem consistent with the claims of a water wetter, increasing heat transfer into and out of the coolant. Haven't bothered running it for years though.
 
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40s were built to live in inhospitable places and thrive there. I'd also consider checking your timing and fuel mixture to determine if there's any reason it's creating extra heat. I'd generally consider the stock system as overkill for its cooling needs.

I've chosen to recore my stock Rad with a 3 core high density Rad (Again) rather than an aluminum Rad of unknown quality. The last recore has been cooling a high compression SBC for 21 years and has lasted 26. When I brought it in for repairs I learned it was near its end.
A good stock Rad should be more than enough if all is working right.
 
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it didn't seem to harm anything, the evapo-rust company has long track record with chemical rust conversion. the first time i drained the coolant out of my HJ75 you could see some chunks of rust, after the chem treatment there were no large bits in any of the fluid.
 

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