Project - Not so Nice (1 Viewer)

[S4Cruiser]

Like RK says, you'll need a 3sp bellhousing. This plate adapts transmission to transfer, and you'll need the 3spd gear, iirc, that fits the o/p shaft of the 465. In short, grab a 3sp case if you don't already have one. This plate clocks the t/c up a bit, so you can run a nearly flat skid, and the linkage still (barely) clears the tub. I have a pilot bearing for you, but you'll need a t/o bearing and 11" Chevy clutch disc. A small piece of exhaust tubing will sleeve the front bearing retainer on the 465 so it will mate with the t/o bearing. You'll also need to get the front bearing retainer turned down on the 465 b/c the diameter is a bit large for the 3sp bellhousing. You'll need a couple of other things, like a thick washer, and a spacer for the output shaft, but my machinist can hook all that up too.



R

Cool - I've been reading up on this link and it has a lot of the same info that you just detailed but incorporates the Orion (which I will not be going with at this point)

--> 2F SM465/Orion Install

 

[GarnerFJ40]

Yeah but with kids you are putting time into something that you love.
I don't love my job or my school work.

I was meaning, job, school, and kids...

 

[lt1fire]

I was meaning, job, school, and kids...

Well say what you mean boy

Hijack off

 

[S4Cruiser]

At least you don't have kids... that's when it gets really interesting...

Stephanie (edit - Missy) said she would take Lilly...just say the word !!

 

[72rockcruiser]

I hate you.

Sent you the link to that thing we talked about.

 

[southerncruiser62]

Status updates on the wiring? She running yet?

 

[S4Cruiser]

Status updates on the wiring? She running yet?

Wiring is interesting to say the least. I first cleaned the garage and then have started pulling everything out of the cruiser; seats stereo, aftermarket lights, the works.

Work has been a b!tch this week so hopefully I can allocate some time this weekend in the evenings...if I'm not working .

 

[S4Cruiser]

Baby Steps

Small update -

Had some time last night to clean up the wiring.

Decided to start simple and replace/clean the battery cables/connections. To my surprise, that was the problem...no dead short.

I was able to get it to turn over but haven't gotten it to start yet. I either have a spark or gas problem. Hopefully I'll have some time to tinker with it tomorrow. Should be fairly easy to get it running now...

 

[southerncruiser62]

Thats always a good find, something simple to make realization of the project a little less complicated

 

[S4Cruiser]

It's Alive!!

Finally got it running. Ended up being no spark. The problem was the ignition was not wired properly. A little work with the test light and tracing wires to the coil and starter...then she fired right up.

Sounded really solid. I'm very pleased!!

Now that I know it runs, time to start tearing this sucker apart and fixing the minor rust, then working on the build...

 

[jfz80]

awesome.... congrats. Thats what had me tied up w/ the pig. dang coils, and ignitor, and points sheesh
then throw in some PO non oem ingenuity.

 

[addicted56]

Awesome I'm excited to see where this goes.

 

[shinton]

The question is, can you keep it from looking too nice to wheel? My dad and I have that issue, I start off with rusty junk but when we fix a "few" things it comes out "too nice!" His Willys was supposed to just be a farm jeep but now he don't want to get it dirty.

How extreme are you wanting to go with it? Retaining stock FJ axles or ? Have a specific tire size in mind or ground clearance? In theory you can get bigger tires by cutting sheet metal and that keeps your COG lower than a lift kit.

I think stock FJ axles / locked are good up to 35-36"? I know Eskimo kept snapping the pinions on the rear of his FJ and I think he was about that tire size, maybe 36-38"

 

[R.K.]

You can build FJ40 axles to where they'll handle 39" tires with confidence now. You just need 30 spline Longs, ARP studs, etc.

 

[S4Cruiser]

I've had some time over the past couple of days to work on this.

I started taking everything off to get a more accurate picture of what shape the body is in. I've got the front and rear seats out, roll bar unbolted (won't come out until I pull the top off) and am in the process of pulling the hardtop. I've got a few stubborn screws that I'm letting soak before I try to get forceful with them.

So now I'm at decision time - I really want to paint the truck another color (I'd be doing the paint work myself). There is also some rust areas that need attention, nothing major though.

I see me having two options that I can take;

1) Leave the body on the truck, fix the rust, sand and paint. This is quicker and involves less work but...

2) Pull the tub, firewall and have the body blasted, fix the rust, etc. I'm leaning toward this option as I'll be able to clean and treat the frame and the underside of the tub. I'm also going to the pulling the transmission to replace with a 465 so I'd have easier access to clean up everything. I also think the rear main seal needs replacing...

So - how much $$ am I looking at to have the tub, firewall, hood, windshield, aprons and bib blasted? Also who would you guys recommend.

Here are a few pics of my progress -->

 

[southerncruiser62]

Jon you are going to get your self into a restore if you pull the body, if you are going to truly make this a trail rig why go through all that trouble, why not make some quick repairs to the rust areas, and then sand and paint, put your money in the items that are going to keep you moving on the trail...

 

[mtweller]

^^^^What Greg said x2

R

 

[GarnerFJ40]

x3, you put all that money and make it nice, you're going to keep it nice...

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Also have to agree with what Greg has said. On project Hooptie i might take the body a bit too far, as far as making it too nice.

 

[77cruiser]

I agree. leave the body on if you can and just keep it so you wont be upset when you lay it on its side or against a tree really hard.

Put the $ into the components like axles, drivetrain etc