Programming instructions for Remote Key Buttons

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Was able to solve the issue but not sure if my extra step did it or not.

The last step - "insert ignition key and remove". I 'inserted ignition key, turned on/off, then removed'. It seemed to do the trick but again it could have been coincidental at best.


2000 UZJ100. Going to give it another shot today. New remote key will start the car so I know that programming works. Just getting the remote functions programmed is my difficulty right now.
 
Ok, several years back I did as Big Bert discribed and worked.

Well I finally got around to programming the remote part of the new key, after programming the ignition part, Well it just would work as discribed originally and as I had done originally..

So I went to step 6, only did once, and then in the end instead of just inserting key and removing... I turned the key to on, then back to lock... and Bam I do have a working keyless entry now..

FYI, Yes if you do Step 6, and Go from Lock to On, twice, it clears all remotes except the one you are programming. The reason I know is the original Remote no longer worked but yet the new one did.

Just advise only do Step 6 once, if only doing one remote
 
Revising an old thread here but I have attempted this a couple times with no luck. I may be doing it too fast. Am I supposed to wait a second between the lock and unlock button press?
 
Revising an old thread here but I have attempted this a couple times with no luck. I may be doing it too fast. Am I supposed to wait a second between the lock and unlock button press?

You have probably already figure yours out, but I had difficulty as well and thought I would share this video that was extremely helpful for those that find this thread and have a similar question.




Also I bought my key here and it worked great. Key Fob Keyless Entry Remote for Toyota Land Cruiser 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002

Saved over $300 by using the steps on this forum and in that video. Huge thanks to all that made it available.
 
You have probably already figure yours out, but I had difficulty as well and thought I would share this video that was extremely helpful for those that find this thread and have a similar question.




Also I bought my key here and it worked great. Key Fob Keyless Entry Remote for Toyota Land Cruiser 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002

Saved over $300 by using the steps on this forum and in that video. Huge thanks to all that made it available.



Picture is worth a thousand words. Finally got it to work. As a dummy I was using the electric lock and unlock switch instead of the manual one.
 
I had a post on her somewhere about that but didn't find it. This post, however, has what looks like identical information. From what I remember this looks correct.

 
Reigniting this great thread on new key fob programming because I'm having a problem with my 1999.
Lost my original Factory master key at the beach. Bought a replacement on eBay per the Mud forum reco's. Hired locksmith to come reprogram the ECU and turn eBay key theoretically into the new Master key.
He was fumbling around and unable to program the alarm remote after making my new key, telling me there was something wrong with the Land Cruiser and left in a huff.
Now, here's my question for the forum
When going through the sequence back at home, when the truck enters the "programming" mode, it locks and unlocks itself TWICE... not once.

It locks and unlocks automatically twice, both when I remove the key from the ON position, and/or when I hit the lock and unlock buttons on the fob itself at the final steps of the procedure. The car locks and unlocks itself twice, which from what I can gather through this thread, means there is an error of some sort?

I tried both turning the car to the ON position once and removing the key (aka "program mode") and twice (aka "reset mode") and removing the key.

Does this mean my master was reprogrammed incorrectly by the mobster-type smithy I hired? :bang:
Why is my remote/alarm not programming? I'm sure someone has an insight about this.... I hope.

Side note, not sure if this is related, my lock actuators in general throughout the car seem to be getting sticky. Sometimes when I hit the lock button not all of them lock and unlock. It's hit or miss. Not sure if this would affect programming the remote though, since it is done manually by hand at the driver's door throughout the procedure. Just thought I'd mention it in case it is relevant.

I can't pay another $500 to $1,000 to deal with this. The RFID eBay key unlocks the car manually, runs the car fine, but I'm not able to program the remote or activate the alarm.

Thanks Mudders.
 
Reigniting this great thread on new key fob programming because I'm having a problem with my 1999.
Lost my original Factory master key at the beach. Bought a replacement on eBay per the Mud forum reco's. Hired locksmith to come reprogram the ECU and turn eBay key theoretically into the new Master key.
He was fumbling around and unable to program the alarm remote after making my new key, telling me there was something wrong with the Land Cruiser and left in a huff.
Now, here's my question for the forum
When going through the sequence back at home, when the truck enters the "programming" mode, it locks and unlocks itself TWICE... not once.

It locks and unlocks automatically twice, both when I remove the key from the ON position, and/or when I hit the lock and unlock buttons on the fob itself at the final steps of the procedure. The car locks and unlocks itself twice, which from what I can gather through this thread, means there is an error of some sort?

I tried both turning the car to the ON position once and removing the key (aka "program mode") and twice (aka "reset mode") and removing the key.

Does this mean my master was reprogrammed incorrectly by the mobster-type smithy I hired? :bang:
Why is my remote/alarm not programming? I'm sure someone has an insight about this.... I hope.

Side note, not sure if this is related, my lock actuators in general throughout the car seem to be getting sticky. Sometimes when I hit the lock button not all of them lock and unlock. It's hit or miss. Not sure if this would affect programming the remote though, since it is done manually by hand at the driver's door throughout the procedure. Just thought I'd mention it in case it is relevant.

I can't pay another $500 to $1,000 to deal with this. The RFID eBay key unlocks the car manually, runs the car fine, but I'm not able to program the remote or activate the alarm.

Thanks Mudders.


T- I just went through the re-programming Ignition/fob sequence today with a new key I just purchased....02 LC-and had the same problem- two tries... no dice. I read through the threads again and I needed to complete my sequence with the Master key- at step 8. Then my new key worked after sequence 8 again. Thanks Mudd!
I definitely did a need Master key to complete the process.
 
I have a master. My ECU was flashed and I have 2 master keys now, actually.
What I have gathered is the remote entry/alarm has a SEPARATE ECU from the ignition's ECU.
Apparently my remote's ECU has hit its maximum of 4 remotes (all owned by previous owners or lost).
Thus I cannot program my new master keys to remote unlock the car nor power the alarm to "on".

I prefer not to spend more $ on hiring someone with a Techstream to clear and program my remotes after flashing the remote ECU.
Not sure, however, if there is any other workaround for my 1999?
 
I have a master. My ECU was flashed and I have 2 master keys now, actually.
What I have gathered is the remote entry/alarm has a SEPARATE ECU from the ignition's ECU.
Apparently my remote's ECU has hit its maximum of 4 remotes (all owned by previous owners or lost).
Thus I cannot program my new master keys to remote unlock the car nor power the alarm to "on".

I prefer not to spend more $ on hiring someone with a Techstream to clear and program my remotes after flashing the remote ECU.
Not sure, however, if there is any other workaround for my 1999?
I believe there is a thread where you can delete old Master/valet keys and start from scratch- It only holds 4 or 5 codes... not sure about the other ecu you are referring to...I’m no expert just chiming in. Good luck.
 
Side note, not sure if this is related, my lock actuators in general throughout the car seem to be getting sticky. Sometimes when I hit the lock button not all of them lock and unlock. It's hit or miss. Not sure if this would affect programming the remote though, since it is done manually by hand at the driver's door throughout the procedure. Just thought I'd mention it in case it is relevant.
I just did my lock actuators. There's a couple good threads on it, took me about 4 hours to do both front doors and the hatch. Not hard, just tedious.
 
I just did my lock actuators. There's a couple good threads on it, took me about 4 hours to do both front doors and the hatch. Not hard, just tedious.
Amazing. Love to hear your before and after performance feedback @post-maintenance of the actuators?
 
Amazing. Love to hear your before and after performance feedback @post-maintenance of the actuators?
I did this to mine as the drivers door one was getting weak. Has been great since. When viewing the thread, realize there are TWO different motors, one for early years and one for older (think 03+ if I remember correctly) that you will have to determine based on your trucks year.

Outside of that, fairly easy job, just time consumptive to get in, get the motor assembly out, split the case to replace motor and then reseal and wait for epoxy to cure properly.
 
Having a key fob programming issue- new OEM key fobs will not work after conclusion of FOB program sequence, but preexisting fob still works.

Vehicle is 1999 UZJ100. Key fobs being added are OEM: 89070-60090, both keys programmed as masters. I have cross compared all numbers on the new fobs and old fob, and all info matches.

Situation - ECU was just flashed, and keys successfully programmed as masters.. One pre existing fob still works, 2 new fobs dont. Car acknowledges and goes into learning mode, and acknowledges new fobs when in learning mode. All 3 fobs are "added", but after programming sequence is concluded, new oem fobs will not work.

I have followed the instructions listed in this thread, along with adding the previously mentioned "double cycle of the OFF/ON". Still no luck. Any suggestions or tips greatly appreciated.
 
Posted in classifieds but sharing here also. Free uncut remote key HYQ1512V frequency if anyone wants it. PM me or check my classifieds post.

Edit: Gone.
 
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Having a key fob programming issue- new OEM key fobs will not work after conclusion of FOB program sequence, but preexisting fob still works.

Vehicle is 1999 UZJ100. Key fobs being added are OEM: 89070-60090, both keys programmed as masters. I have cross compared all numbers on the new fobs and old fob, and all info matches.

Situation - ECU was just flashed, and keys successfully programmed as masters.. One pre existing fob still works, 2 new fobs dont. Car acknowledges and goes into learning mode, and acknowledges new fobs when in learning mode. All 3 fobs are "added", but after programming sequence is concluded, new oem fobs will not work.

I have followed the instructions listed in this thread, along with adding the previously mentioned "double cycle of the OFF/ON". Still no luck. Any suggestions or tips greatly appreciated.

Problem solved. I had to first "delete" the original fob that was programmed (it was attached to the valet key), which was throwing things off. Once original fob was deleted, I was able to add the other Fobs, then re-add the original fob.
 
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