Power Steering, Radius Arms, Coils, Panhard, and Fender Patches

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Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Threads
252
Messages
11,865
Location
In the lab
First of all, Thanks to Delancy for providing the foundations to this madness, in several different ways:cheers: as well as BobM for his continued and unprecedented contributions to this community, and this project:beer: and the many other pioneering members of this board...


For those of you who don't know, the patient is a bit of a Johnny Cash song. 73 single cab on a 77 chassis with a MAF front shackle reversal kit with stock front springs and a custom FZJ80 rear FF elocking disk brake axle on a set of 4" lift MAF rear springs. Power is provided via a 1986 2F with chevy valve job and a 1984 H42 4 speed and 34mm splitcase...


the rig sits at about 3 1/2" of lift from stock form and rides on a set of 16" stock taco rims and some 295/75/16 mud terrains. The rig is for the most part solid, and it keeps reminding of this via the front suspension:mad: Altho the kit for FSR is pretty nice at first, but as one continues down the rabbit hole, begins to show signs of the inherent compromises made with the design in order to provide the universal type of "kit" without a complete front end remodel, the kit in and of itself gives alot of flex, but little in the form of ride dampening. the shackles when used with stock springs are verticle:doh:


In an effort to make for a more road friendly rig without compromising flexibility, I began looking at the radius arm design of the FJ80 series. the principal is sound, and seems to me to be a decent upgrade. Ground clearance, flex and ride quality. Of course, a few things need to be addressed before this can happen...Power steering for one- regardless of the suspension remodel, and perhaps a wider front axle are in order...there's alot of stuff going on in a small amount of space...


First step is going to be power steering. I sourced an FJ60 box- the early one, and will be sleeving and plating my frame to mount it. This one is going to set further forward of most of the PS mods, in order to accommodate the panhard and spring mounts on the drivers side frame rail. the position of this device is going to determine how well everything else will mesh once it is all in place. I plan to use one of Georgs Bill Dorey brackets and a saginaw pump along with another of Georgs great parts- the pulley for the pump that works with the toyota belts. I am not certain how the drag link is going to go, but have a 60 series pitman side rod end, and will see how well it plays with the 55 series rod. a minitruck column will provide the shaft between the 55 column and the PS box. of course, it will need to be cut and welded together with the stub end of the 55 column to box shaft. I will be using 9/16s hardware for the box.


once the PS is done, the panhard frame side tower can be located and installed. from that point, spring buckets and shock towers will be attached. My plan is to use frame brackets from an 80. I am torn on weather to mount them in the relative FJ80 height, and use standard FJ80 lift stuff to get my height, or to use stock FJ80 springs and set the bucket height in relation to MY current ride height(maybe a bit taller to match a lo pro rear SOA down the road...). Plate will be plasma cut to make axle side brackets, and I will most likely use some 3X4X5/16" wall tubing to make the radius arm frame side mounts.


The front axle may prove to be too short to utilize stock style coils in the front- a 60 series housing would work, as would a custom stretched 55 series front, using one of Dave Gores sleeves and a stock drivers side FJ60 front inner axle. Histeer arms should not be needed, and I'm not sure they would work with the panhard mounts under full stuff to the drivers side. A new driveshaft will be needed, as the axle may move forward to compromise between the radius arms and the pitman drag link location.


Of course, I could not do this much work with out Installing a pair of BobMs fender patches:bounce:finally;).


Pictures will follow, and I intend to go step by step with dimensions and instructions as the project moves forward. any and all input is welcome. :cheers:
 
Lambcrusher,

I'm very excited about this, not that I will ever attempt it, just like the idea behind it. I'm more of a follower than a trail blazer, when it comes to designing a whole new suspension.

Good luck with it brother and wish I was closer.
 
Lambcrusher,
I am diggin it and cannot wait to see your set by step. PS is one of the mods I want to accomplish soon.
 
Lambcrusher,

I'm very excited about this, not that I will ever attempt it, just like the idea behind it. I'm more of a follower than a trail blazer, when it comes to designing a whole new suspension.

Good luck with it brother and wish I was closer.

HA! designing :lol: Look I couldn't figure out how to use the link calc;) I'm a low hangin fruit kinda guy, and the 80 series is not too far different, readily available, fairly durable and well tested. Leaf spring bushings wear out too quickly, SOA require almost as much work, and would push me up about 3 more inches, maybe only 2 1/2, and would require 37s($$$) just drinkin about how to build the axle side brax with built-in caster correction...The real-time wild card is, what effect moving the drag link end of the pitman arm forward is going to have in overall steering.
 
How are you thinking of orienting the arms? Top of bottom of the housing?

preliminary fitment leads me to believe I should run the arms under axle, with mounting going either over housing like a downward facing C, or around the housing(it will be shaved of all brax and balls removed for CnT) If I go brax around the housing, I won't have to weld them till the arms are bolted to the frame and the springs are loaded- might be worth the effort. the small differences in the frame designs are going to make some of the geometry different to a certain degree. The arms are almost flat across all three eyes and darn neas perfectly level between the two at the axle side when holding it in place with a proposed 3" between frame and center of frame side eye of arm- the angle looks good to the seat of my pants:hillbilly: Got a line on a somewhat local 80 with the OK to cut frame brax for panhard, springs and shox. All things are still incubating at this time, but under way. many things will have to wait till the thing is fully built to figure out how to build it tho, and it is chewing me up some. resolved to start stripping old drum brake front to prep for brax, a stretch and big pattern knuckles. figure I can build all components and install over a marathon weekend as long as it has all been practiced.
 
Power Steering.
1982 steering box from fj60 with pitman
198? minitruck steering column
canned ham saginaw pump
Orangefj45 saginaw pump to toyota belt pulley
Orangefj45 Bill Dorey saginaw pump bracket
198? fj60 drag link rod end(long side)
4 9/16 grade 8 fine thread bolts lock washers and nuts
1' X 1" OD X 9/16" ID steel tubing
6" X 5" X 1/4" steel plate
?cooler and hoses? TBD
placement of the box in this case is going to be further forward of where most of these boxes get mounted in order to clear the panhard rod frame side tower that will be following the PS build. First step regardless is to mark your plate with you boxes bolt pattern. once the plate is marked and drilled, verify it will "bolt right up" to the plate. then transfer the plates bolt pattern to the frame where YOUR box needs to go> in most cases, I would recommend to position the box so the drag link will be in roughly the same position as it currently is> error toward the bumper. once you have you location and have the frame marked, you can go ahead and drill the holes. I will use a hole saw and will thru drill both sides of the frame squarely with a 1/4" pilot first, before adding the hole saw to the arbor...
 
reserved
 
drag link stuff
 
DLS cont
 
column to box
 
pump and mounting
 
Power steering spare post
 
just in case




posts will be edited with pics and explanations in relevant sections to aid in referencing. feel free to post PLEASE. I would like to insert sections of tech followed by commentary to prevent info getting lost due to saturated thread structure. I think I have enough reserved space to go ahead and chat it up;)
 
For conversations sake.....

It appeared to be possible to transplant an 80 axle by out-boarding the frame mounts, which could be lowered to rotate the axle clockwise, to level the coil perches and reorient the panhard mount.

Since you're capable of a CnT, could bolt the arms to the axle, rotate the arms down until the coil perches/panhard mount are trued, then build the frame mounts wherever they wound up. Center the axle up, and fab the frame side panhard mount, upper coil bucket and shock tower.

Gives you the width to match the rear and minimizes some fab.....but may create more in other areas, hard to say.

I don't know a way to accurately measure or calculate, but a 3 1/2" Pig lift may be very close, or close enough, to the OE 80 height, that it could all transplant, without jacking the pinion angle up enough to worry with, plus the 80 panhard mount shouldn't "need" to be raised, so could match the drag link to it.

Don't know if a 60 pitman arm would work. For that matter, don't know if any would work, but sounds doable, and would give plenty of width for the coils.

Sourcing an e locked 80 axle may not be cost effective....

And to start the mental process for the thread that should follow this one.....

I have the rear uppers, lowers, panhard from an FJC and rear uppers, panhard for the 80, along with the OE coils, since the rear 5 link is impressive, for what it is.

Just sayin'
 
Where are you at on this?

BFE...slow to get all the things together...still in design mode...I have credit at the plasma cutters, so as soon as I get the drawrings worked out, some brackets can get cut and I can start pre fab:rolleyes: flame on...
 
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