Power Steering Rack/Box Leak Suggestions (91 Surf LN130) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jemjem787
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
It’s really pretty simple, when you get to the spanner nut on the inside scratch a mark across the housing, keeper nut and spanner nut. When you reassemble line these marks up and the preload will be set correctly. As for the ball bearings, they are all the same size so the order doesn’t matter, it will take a couple tries to get them all in. Everything else is straight forward. I had to cut the stock pitman arm off, I wasn’t reusing it so it didn’t matter. Would be a good time to rebuild the power steering pump also, really easy, if it is a 4 cylinder
- Thread starter
- #23
I'll take a lot of pictures for sure. However as this is my first time I dont think I'll be making any form of tutorial, I'll try to do something though to help the next person along and I'll post it in this thread.
As for the Pittman arm, I'm told it's difficult for some people to take them off but I'd rather not have to replace something I don't have too. Same with the pump, if it ain't broke dont fix it.
The only thing really edging me on to do this fix is because I need an allignment pretty bad, and I might as well fix all my steering components anyway and then get it done.
As for the Pittman arm, I'm told it's difficult for some people to take them off but I'd rather not have to replace something I don't have too. Same with the pump, if it ain't broke dont fix it.
The only thing really edging me on to do this fix is because I need an allignment pretty bad, and I might as well fix all my steering components anyway and then get it done.
Installing the Teflon seals is a pain. I soaked them in atf, then used a plastic funnel to stretch them out. Once they were installed I used a hose clamp to squeeze them back down. Use the edge of the hose clamp where it is smooth. It will take some trial and error.
- Thread starter
- #25
A couple write-ups i read mentioned just putting the seal in a cup of water, and then putting it in the microwave for 30 seconds. If that doesn't work then ill try your method.
I understand what you mean and what to do, however would you mind explaining the preload part and what exactly is being preloaded? I'm unfamiliar with steering components.
The seal kit and any tools i need have been ordered. All together it's about $50 CAD for the kit from rockauto, and $12 CAD for the adjustable pin wrench off amazon. Going to see if i can rent the Pitman arm puller from my local Canadian Tire as they do free tool rentals. A bit cheaper than the 400 the shop quoted me, and i get to have a project for next weekend.
Last edited:
In the 1st picture the blue arrow points to the spanner nut. The spanner nut sets the preload on the bearings in the second picture, red arrow. The green arrow is my match mark for the spanner nut on the housing. No special tools needed. use a punch to loosen the locking nut then needle nose pliers to remove the spanner nut. Count the revolutions when removing the spanner nut. When you tighten the nut back it will stop at your match marks, then tighten the locking nut so all 3 match marks line up.
In the interest of finding the correct parts for this truck, any other JDM (and maybe even any LHD Toyotas although I have not tried this) , in the future, take a look at partsouq.com. They are a middle east supplier that stocks a ridiculous quantity of stuff, with the vast majority being OEM. The site can use the '' Frame No. LN130-XXXXXXX" on your firewall tag and put you onto exactly your vehicle build configuration. Or you can choose your own adventure but there are so many different international configuration choices this may be overwhelming. All factory parts diagrams, very useful even just to source part numbers to try locally or for comparison purposes. Some show interesting things like elocker provisions for 90's pickups, PTO winch on an 80 series...Pricing on genuine Toyota parts has been excellent compared to what we pay here in Canada, shipping quite reasonable. Quite a resource. Happy fixing. Hijack over...lol
- Thread starter
- #29
Thanks @hiluxjeremy. I'll look into it for sure.
Also for anyone else who was waiting on me to rebuild it, the recent outbreak has changed and delayed my plans. I already bought a couple new tools though (Adjustable pin wrench and a arm puller) so I'm itching to get on it and fix it. Will probably be this week or next weekend.
Also for anyone else who was waiting on me to rebuild it, the recent outbreak has changed and delayed my plans. I already bought a couple new tools though (Adjustable pin wrench and a arm puller) so I'm itching to get on it and fix it. Will probably be this week or next weekend.
- Thread starter
- #30
I managed to get the rack out of the rig, and have half taken it apart. However i seem to have run into a problem.
The guide i am using is here timestamped to the part i am on.
The lock ring shown in the video is different than the lock ring on my rack, and it has 2 very small notches on the sides. I assumed it was the same mechanics behind it however when i started tapping it out all i did was make dents in the metal. Anyone have any tips for removing the plate?
The guide i am using is here timestamped to the part i am on.
The lock ring shown in the video is different than the lock ring on my rack, and it has 2 very small notches on the sides. I assumed it was the same mechanics behind it however when i started tapping it out all i did was make dents in the metal. Anyone have any tips for removing the plate?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #31
After moving on to a different part, i soon realized that the seal kit i ordered off of rockauto was missing the large white teflon ring. So now i am completely ****ed while i wait for another one to come in. I have ordered 3 things off of rockauto in my life, and 2 of the 3 orders have had missing parts. Severely dissapointed in them right now.
- Thread starter
- #33
I've broken 2 pin wrenches and kinda destroyed the surface of that metal trying to loosen it off. This thing is hella stuck. Just incase i actually caused permenant damage I've started the search for a new box. Let this be an important lesson to me lol.
You need to loosen the locking ring 1st, the outer ring. you are looking a two different pieces. The nut is the inner with the holes, the locking it is the outer with notches
- Thread starter
- #35
While trying to tap those outer notches, my screwdriver just digs into the metal and sheers it off. Any advice on where to go next?
Thanks for the help so far buddy, i really appreciate it.
You are fine. Once you loosen the outer nut, the inner will back out easy. You haven’t screwed anything up.
Use a punch with a wide flat surface on the end. Do you have it held secure in a vice
Last edited:
Don’t forget match marks
- Thread starter
- #39
Just gave it another shot with even more force and a different punch and the metal is just bending and chipping away, any more suggestions?
Mine came off fairly easy
Last edited:
