ok, well if you still want it with the warning on the h/g, another option it to get oil analysis done now by blackstone labs before you buy if the owner will let you drain some oil out. that will tell you how much coolant is in the block.
otherwise, if you are a gambler on the bearings then, as i already suggested, test the compression. You ideally want to be 150 psi plus and all within 10% of each other. 140 is so so. on any sub 140 cylinders add some oil and test again. if compression comes up the rings are bad. and it is just not worth fixing the head gasket unless you do the bottom end.
if compression is good, and you want to take a chance on the bearings, you can tear it down to the block in a few hours, get a valve grind, shave .020" off the head, clean all the carbon off the cylinders, get the injectors and rail cleaned by an injector shop, replace the fuel filter and fuel pump regulator, clean the throttle body, intake and EGR system, replace the all the gaskets, plug leads, rotor, cap and plugs, rad flush, new coolant, set the timing do two quick 200 mile oil changes, to flush any coolant out of the oil and you will be right as rain so long as the bearings aren't already bad. You can get all the parts OEM from cruiserdan and the machine shop work on the head done for maybe $6-800 all in plus 2-3 days of your life for labour. Assuming your o2 sensor has not been damaged by the coolant in the exhaust your truck should then run as well as any 3FE out there, and the head shave will give you more power than stock.
this will leave you with a front axle birfield job that needs doing ($250 in parts plus 14 hours), EFI relay mod, and air flow meter adjustment, both of which are basically labour.
otherwise, if you are a gambler on the bearings then, as i already suggested, test the compression. You ideally want to be 150 psi plus and all within 10% of each other. 140 is so so. on any sub 140 cylinders add some oil and test again. if compression comes up the rings are bad. and it is just not worth fixing the head gasket unless you do the bottom end.
if compression is good, and you want to take a chance on the bearings, you can tear it down to the block in a few hours, get a valve grind, shave .020" off the head, clean all the carbon off the cylinders, get the injectors and rail cleaned by an injector shop, replace the fuel filter and fuel pump regulator, clean the throttle body, intake and EGR system, replace the all the gaskets, plug leads, rotor, cap and plugs, rad flush, new coolant, set the timing do two quick 200 mile oil changes, to flush any coolant out of the oil and you will be right as rain so long as the bearings aren't already bad. You can get all the parts OEM from cruiserdan and the machine shop work on the head done for maybe $6-800 all in plus 2-3 days of your life for labour. Assuming your o2 sensor has not been damaged by the coolant in the exhaust your truck should then run as well as any 3FE out there, and the head shave will give you more power than stock.
this will leave you with a front axle birfield job that needs doing ($250 in parts plus 14 hours), EFI relay mod, and air flow meter adjustment, both of which are basically labour.
