possible Air in fuel 2H

[oldsmokey1]

Hi all

When i start my 2h it only runs for no longer then 20 seconds, it runs really rough like its not quite getting enough diesel through it.

Ive played around with the primer, ive changed primers (both 2nd hand though, one is the bosch other is stock primer) and bled the air out of the fuel countless times, changed fuel filter, pressurised the fuel tank.

I can bleed all the air out of the fuel filter untill i get a solid stream coming out of the breather but the primer still doesnt quite go hard. is it meant to? Once the car has started and then stalled ill crack the fuel breather and air comes out again just like before i bled the line. I pump the primer for ages and it doesnt seem to get any harder.

When i filled the fuel filter up with clean diesel and screwed it in, the car idled fine for a few minutes, you could give it a few revs and would still be fine, but then the revs would just decrease untill it eventually died.

Im pretty sure its air getting into the fuel, i was just chasing if any of you guys have had or heard of a similar problem like this.

This is a second hand engine that i have put in that i had got of a friend, it had been sitting for a while. I checked my water trap under the chassis, it was pretty dirty but gave it a good clean out and that didnt seem to be my problem either. Ive cracked the injectors as well.

Nothing i seem to do works?

 

[TLC Norway]

Did you bleed air out on the injectors?
I did get air trapped somewhere once, and bled air out of the fuel pump. I think I remember it being placed on the side of the pump, a 10 mm nut just below the injection lines.
Try that, while cranking, and open and close it while running.


Also had the primer suck air, had it replaced, cheap oem.

Sent from my GT-I9000 using IH8MUD app.

 

[Lost]

when i did my diesel swap, i had a hard time priming the lines, so i cracked open the bleeder and got my brother to crank the motor until a steady stream was gushing out of the bleeder(this happened fast). then we closed the bleeder and the lines were primed and the motor fired right up. ive also done this with a 4cyl hino motor after a swap and it worked like a charm.

also [on a different occasion] ive had to pump the primer for 15minutes to prime the lines. from experience, the priming pump got pretty darn stiff when the lines were properly primed.

 

[oldsmokey1]

ill try cracking the bleeder and cranking the motor and see what happens.

also [on a different occasion] ive had to pump the primer for 15minutes to prime the lines

Surely if your priming for 15 minutes theres gotta be a problem somewhere?

 

[kim]

it shouldn't take 15 minutes to fill the filter, even if it is empty. A couple of minutes tops.

Is the manual priming pump leaking? It's a good bet that your second, second hand pump is not working. Go buy one, they're not too pricey so an excellent first step at getting rid of air.

 

[Lost]

yes the pump was leaking, thats why it took so long, its already been replaced

 

[Tapage]

if you still have the problem try feeding the IP direct from any kind of jerry can you have .. see if the problem persist .. then try same test going back ..

I had a pin hole ( impossible to see ) in the factory water separator and was pita catch it ..

 

[kim]

if you still have the problem try feeding the IP direct from any kind of jerry can you have .. see if the problem persist .. then try same test going back ..

I had a pin hole ( impossible to see ) in the factory water separator and was pita catch it ..

It sure is a PITA!

I don't know where oldsmokey is but if his truck is canadian, I would do the Jerry can draw from just behind the water separator, basically isolating the fuel tank and pick up out of the equation as the fuel pick up commonly rusts out where it meets the tank.

 

[oldsmokey1]

Hey fellas, im from Australia

Well the old engine that i had in it before didnt have this problem and that was using the same water trap and fuel tank so im thinking it must be in the engine where a seal or something has broken down?

is it possible that it could be getting air into the system throug the injector pump?

 

[kim]

Hey fellas, im from Australia

Well the old engine that i had in it before didnt have this problem and that was using the same water trap and fuel tank so im thinking it must be in the engine where a seal or something has broken down?

is it possible that it could be getting air into the system throug the injector pump?

scratch what I said about the tank. You need to build pressure from your priming pump and the fuel filter. I would get a new priming pump if you can't get pressure here. It may draw air in other spots but I'd start there.

 

[fitzmooney]

Primer pumps are less than $30 on evilbay.

 

[rove_mcanus]

It sounds like air in the line. Even the slightest leak can drain the prime and stop the motor. Pressurizing the tank with air saves you having to pump the primer. Crack the bleed nipple and blow air in the tank and fuel should eventually run out.

Have you done what Tapage said about running the motor straight from a jerry can? plumb it in right behind the primer. That will give you an idea of which end of the fuel system the problem lies.

Check for leaks in any of the steel pipes. Also the banjo fittings have copper washers. Replace all of them. they are designed to flatten out to seal properly. they may be past their use by date.

 

[flatlandhj]

Having just undertaken the replacement of the priming pump on my 2H, I can offer the following observations on my own priming experience.

1) I bought a $3 clear brake bleeding hose with a small built-in check valve. I considered it money well spent when finished.
2) I ended up pumping about 2 gallons of fuel manually through the upper bleeder nipple over about an hour. It actually took that long. When the larger bubbles ran out, I slowed and smoothed the pumping to about one stroke per second to stop the creation of small foam bubbles from the pump.
3) After I thought I had that line clean of air, I used a 17mm socket on the bleeder screw just above and to the left of the pump. I pumped up pressure, kept it up, then released the screw, and repeated for 4-5 times. Messy, but effective.
4) For me, this allowed me to glow and start the engine.
5) Now you have to use a 17mm wrench on each of the injectors to bleed air while the motor is running. The strength of the knocking of the injector line (as felt with a finger) seems to be a good indication of the lack of air in the line.

I hope this helps.

 

[oldsmokey1]

thanks for your help guys i will get and have a look at it when i next get a chance.

rove, you say check the steel pipes for leaks how could i check them for an air leak? ive sprayed bubbling water in the engine bay but couldnt see anything and theres no sign of fuel coming out anywhere? ill replace those copper washers too, that sounds like a good idea.