Positive camber after lift?

[Black200]

So I just had a local shop install an Ironman Stage 2 foamcell 2" lift kit on my 2011 LC. This kit comes with their UCAs which were also installed. I've noticed that one of my cv boots already exploded. However I've noticed a visibly positive camber on my front wheels, I assume this is normal until I have the alignment done. For that I'm just waiting for my KO2s to come in.

Would it be better to wait for the new tires before doing the alignment or just to do it now?

I'm not driving the car very far or often and the current tires need replacements anyway, so not worried about them being chewed up.

 

[bloc]

So I just had a local shop install an Ironman Stage 2 foamcell 2" lift kit on my 2011 LC. This kit comes with their UCAs which were also installed. I've noticed that one of my cv boots already exploded. However I've noticed a visibly positive camber on my front wheels, I assume this is normal until I have the alignment done. For that I'm just waiting for my KO2s to come in.

Would it be better to wait for the new tires before doing the alignment or just to do it now?

I'm not driving the car very far or often and the current tires need replacements anyway, so not worried about them being chewed up.

You'll have to do an alignment after removing the CV to reboot it. I'd get that taken care of, then do alignment, whether or not you have tires.

And it's not just tires that get chewed up. If your toe is out it can put a lot of load on the bearings and suspension.

Also when doing the alignment search for linuxgod's posts about numbers. Most machines have incorrect values programmed in for our vehicles. The FSM specs call for more caster than they will do by default.

 

[Black200]

You'll have to do an alignment after removing the CV to reboot it. I'd get that taken care of, then do alignment, whether or not you have tires.

And it's not just tires that get chewed up. If your toe is out it can put a lot of load on the bearings and suspension.

Also when doing the alignment search for linuxgod's posts about numbers. Most machines have incorrect values programmed in for our vehicles. The FSM specs call for more caster than they will do by default.

Good to know about CVs. I actually ordered new CVs and I'll replace the boots on my current ones and leave them as spares.

 

[bloc]

Good to know about CVs. I actually ordered new CVs and I'll replace the boots on my current ones and leave them as spares.

OEM or aftermarket? People have had bad luck with aftermarket..

But yeah you'll need to loosen the lower ball joint bracket to knuckle, at a minimum, to get the CV out. So I'd do that first, then the alignment should stick.

Also make sure they use the factory torque value for the lower control arm cam bolts. 207ft/lb. Shops often use "tight enough" here, but it turns out it isn't quite tight enough to keep the alignment from drifting.

 

[Black200]

OEM or aftermarket? People have had bad luck with aftermarket..

But yeah you'll need to loosen the lower ball joint bracket to knuckle, at a minimum, to get the CV out. So I'd do that first, then the alignment should stick.

Also make sure they use the factory torque value for the lower control arm cam bolts. 207ft/lb. Shops often use "tight enough" here, but it turns out it isn't quite tight enough to keep the alignment from drifting.

I ordered OEM since I've researched on issues with aftermarket. I don't know what currently is installed but I went the safe route with OEM.

 

[TeCKis300]

The stock LC does spec a hint of positive camber. Though I'm sure the lift exacerbated that as you're seeing.

Depending on how the shop does your CVs, it won't necessarily impact alignment, but if it's right around the corner, it would be good to do them after to be sure. Just saying you'll want to do the alignment sooner than later as a lift really impacts the alignment. Sure tire wear, but the handling and safety of the setup will be pretty bad until setup right.

 

[Black200]

The stock LC does spec a hint of positive camber. Though I'm sure the lift exacerbated that as you're seeing.

Depending on how the shop does your CVs, it won't necessarily impact alignment, but if it's right around the corner, it would be good to do them after to be sure. Just saying you'll want to do the alignment sooner than later as a lift really impacts the alignment. Sure tire wear, but the handling and safety of the setup will be pretty bad until setup right.

Yeah, the camber is crazy visible from the front. I'll definitely do it post cv swap.

 

[linuxgod]

Caster around 3-3.5 deg, I prefer going a bit higher but you may rub more in the KDSS arm depending on tire size and offset

Camber between 0 and 0.5 deg. I prefer staying closer to 0 based on about 55k miles with my lift and tires

1/16” toe in

Caster should be a few 10ths if a degree higher on the passengers side to account for road crown. Camber should be maybe 1/10th more on the passengers side so that you slowly drift away from oncoming traffic if you let go of the wheel. Both of these are optional.

I don’t think you need an alignment if you just reboot or replace your CV. So long as you don’t touch the tie rod setting or LCA cams it should end up exactly where you started. That said you probably do need one right now.

 

[bloc]

I don’t think you need an alignment if you just reboot or replace your CV. So long as you don’t touch the tie rod setting or LCA cams it should end up exactly where you started. That said you probably do need one right now.

The lower ball joint “bridge” bolts into the bottom of the knuckle do have a bit of clearance in their holes in the bridge.. how much movement does it take at the lower ball joint location to elicit a change in camber and/or toe?

 

[linuxgod]

The lower ball joint “bridge” bolts into the bottom of the knuckle do have a bit of clearance in their holes in the bridge.. how much movement does it take at the lower ball joint location to elicit a change in camber and/or toe?

Fair enough, I hadn’t noticed that but it’s been a while since I pulled things apart. I’d mark anything I dismantle, but I know the Toyota dealer didn’t recommend an alignment after rebooting my CV so it must be possible to do it without one