POR15 or Eastwood rust encapsulator

[HoustonFJ62]

Which is best for fighting rust...POR-15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator? Eastwood claims less prep work for their product, but equal if not superior rust elimination/conversion. Ant Ideas? I have a fine dust of rust on the inside of my rear fenders. Otherwise, it looks like the original Ziebarting is still holding strong.

 

[norsk]

I did Eastwood several years ago on my frame - FAIL, flaked off

This past year I have used Rust Bullet. Look in my build thread below in my sig. Will it work? Time will tell. I used a 12,000 RPM grinder and brush this time instead of my hand drill to get down to metal. Then used RB's Metal Blaster to convert the rust (worked), then applied RB silver (2 coats) and covered it with RB Shell Black. Frame looks great

I have taken my doors off and am in the process of "renewing" them. I clean out the bottom sealants, clean the metal, brush the rust, then applied RB. Much better protection than the OEM stuff in the doors. So all my doors will have 6 inches or so up the wall of RB on the bottom seal. Water runs right out the holes - which you much ensure are still open

Now my front fenders were black, so I have painted them with Shell Black, so that is different from a regular restore. But on the inside quarters, I will use RB after the rust is cut out and new metal put in

dougbert

 

[HoustonFJ62]

I am lucky to not have much rust since the truck was bought in NC, but now that it lives in Houston, I should be OK with fighting the rust. I will look at the RB line. Thanks.

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

I used RB on my 40 about 8 years ago w/ a top coat of black tractor paint from Tractor Supply (w/ the hardener). It's held up very well over the years.

I just picked ups some for my 60. I'm currently replacing the inner rear channels.

 

[WHG423]

I've been using POR-15 on several projects lately and I'm happy with the results although I can't speak personally for its long term results other than my friends that restore VWs swear by it.

 

[ntsqd]

POR absolutely has to have a top-coat. Even if it is not where it get direct sunlight it should have it. I apply it and then when it's still slightly tacky I spray it with Rustoleum. Spraying POR will slow down its cure rate, so expect it to be soft for a couple of days afterwards, but it will get hard. Most of these kinds of coatings are "moisture curing polyurethane paints", so they're best applied in high humidity. Some of the best POR that I know of got misted/sprinkled on.

 

[FJ60BigLou]

POR absolutely has to have a top-coat. Even if it is not where it get direct sunlight it should have it. I apply it and then when it's still slightly tacky I spray it with Rustoleum. Spraying POR will slow down its cure rate, so expect it to be soft for a couple of days afterwards, but it will get hard. Most of these kinds of coatings are "moisture curing polyurethane paints", so they're best applied in high humidity. Some of the best POR that I know of got misted/sprinkled on.

What do you think would happen if the rust oleum was painted over POR after it had hardened?

 

[Heckraiser]

If you're painting over POR15, I would recommend a good primer before a paint topcoat. I know POR15 says that the surface is paintable after curing, but they even sell a POR15 specific primer, which to me says that you'd be better off priming. I know it's kinda $$$, but I would do POR15, POR15 primer and then your rustoleum or what have you on top of that. In my experience, rustoleum does not do well in sunlight. I'm not sure if that is a factor where you're spraying it.

 

[ntsqd]

What do you think would happen if the rust oleum was painted over POR after it had hardened?

I think that it would be a LOT more work to get good adhesion to the POR-15.