Plug Fouling Questions

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Joined
Apr 26, 2003
Threads
39
Messages
279
Location
Mountains of WV
Any idea why #5 plug would foul to the point that it wouldnt fire, while the rest are a nice cozy brownish color with no signs of over fueling? I took the rig over 10500 feet this weekend and it started to run like hell (missing on cylinder #5). Pulled the plugs and sure enough one was foulded like crazy. Im trying to figure out if it may be a bad wire? The cap rotor and wires are all new within 4 months.. I run a Petronix ignition module under the cap.. any suggestions would be appreciated. BTW, the carb is a weber, but I dont feel its a fuel problem.

Mike
 
Thanks guys, Ill do a compression test on it to see if I have a leakdown problem or low compression. About six months ago I put a remanned head on it from SOR and honed the cylinders w/ new rings.. compression was even across the cylinders at right around 140. I hope I dont have to tear this thing down again! BTW, it was not oil fouled, just fuel/carbonized would bum compression on one cylnder cause a fuel enrichment/firing problem?

Mike
 
Maybe I missed something.. but wouldn't it be best to check for a spark at the plug first? :)

If there's fresh fuel on the plug, I'd check the ignition before anything else.
 
Sorry for the confusion.. the plug is completely fouled and wont spark. It is covered in black soot/carbon not oil.. I am trying to figure out if it is and ignition problem on #5, or if it may be overfueling in one cylinder (Im not sure if that is even possible). I was just trying to figure out if anyone else has ever had this problem on one cylinder (normally fouling from too much fuel/incorrect jetting is seen across all plugs not just one from my experiecnce) I was at high altitude, so I am trying to work eith the idea that it was overfueling, vs ignition.

Mike
 
Spark Plug 101

Easy check is to get one of those little neon light doo-dads that electricians use to check for "live" circuits. Hold it right against the spark plug wire. All of the plug wires should show about the same intensity. This will only tell you if the "system" is delivering voltage to the plug.

Alternatively, you can pull the plug and "ground" it to the block and crank the engine and see what kinda' spark you're getting.

If you are not getting a healthy spark, you can swap in a "known good" plug and see what happens.

Plugs can be bad internally also. The spark will jump inside th plug intsead of at the gap. I once cleaned up an old straight-six F100 Ford pickup engine with a heavy cleaner/degreaser (Oakite, IIRC). Not thinking, we left the plugs in the engine. When we tried to crank it, we couldn't figure why it wouldn't fire for a while. All the plugs had shorted internally due to the cleaner penetrating and providing a low resistance path. (It was easier for the spark to jump through the Oakite residue inside the plug than across the normal gap at the end of the plug. Once the spark started jumping internally, it built up a carbon path that was almost a complete short) A craked porcelain insulator will usually wind up exhibiting the same problems.

Also carefully examine the distributor cap for carbon traces (minute, spidery tracks) in the vicinity of that #5 lead.

If the plug is good and it's still not getting an arc across the gap, swap out one of the spark plug wires and see if it corrects the #5 problem.

All of this can be done in a few minutes. From the get-go, you have five good wires, five good plugs, and five good distributor outputs to experiment with.

john
 
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