Passenger Side Exhaust Manifold - "Fix the Tick".

[tlcruzr]

Last night I changed out the passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2000 Land Cruiser with a replacement (used) manifold to get rid of the embarrassing ticking noise that is commonly caused by a cracked flange(s) on the 100-Series. Below is a picture of the parts that I ordered for the job, just in case anyone else was looking for the correct part numbers.

 

[tlcruzr]

I installed a replacement (used) exhaust manifold from a 2005 LC that I had laying around from a previous project. Supposedly the new manifold is a better design, but looking at the two side-by-side there doesn't appear to be much of a difference. Both the old and "new" exhaust manifolds have the same flange thickness of ~ 2.3mm. It does appear that the weld is slightly more recessed from the face of the flange on the newer style manifold. The older/original style manifold also has two tack welds located at the top & bottom of the flange pipes, but other than that they appear identical in construction. My original exhaust manifold had a pretty significant fracture/crack on the No. 1 exhaust flange.

 

[vipergrhd]

Last night I changed out the passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2000 Land Cruiser with a replacement (used) manifold to get rid of the embarrassing ticking noise that is commonly caused by a cracked flange(s) on the 100-Series. Below is a picture of the parts that I ordered for the job, just in case anyone else was looking for the correct part numbers.

View attachment 3631659

Do you have pics of the crack on the manifold? just curious were to look. Thank you for posting the parts needed for the job. I will be pulling out a 2UZ soon and I need this for sure.
Just saw the pics, thanks.

 

[tlcruzr]

All in all, the passenger side exhaust manifold replacement was a pretty straight forward affair. I soaked all hardware two days in advance with PB Blaster, then removed the front wheel and the interior wheel well (plastic shroud) that is held in place with 6 clips. You also have to remove the plastic "belly pan" to access the three studs/nuts on the collector pipe. Working from the side of the vehicle allowed me to access most of the bottom studs/nuts, while some of the top studs/nuts were easier to access from the top. The three nuts on the collector were on pretty tight, so I had to use a 3/4" breaker bar with a 14mm deep well socket to get those nuts loose.

 

[tlcruzr]

In the end, none of the original studs backed out during the removal of the exhaust manifold, so I decided against replacing the studs. Once I got everything cleaned up, the replacement manifold went back on pretty easily once I figured out that I needed to get the 3-studs on the manifold into the collector flange before sliding the exhaust manifold into place on the cylinder head. In total it took me about 2 and-a-half hours to take everything apart and clean it up, and then about another hour to put everything back together. Final torque was 32-foot pounds on the exhaust manifold nuts, and just under 40-foot pounds at the exhaust collector flange. I plan to drive the LC for a week with the heat shield off just to make sure there are no leaks, then I'll retorque everything a second time before reinstalling the heat shield. I'm looking forward to not having to do the "drive of shame" as I leave the neighborhood with my truck sounding like a sewing machine in the mornings!!!