Panels off and panels on

[fullthrottle]

So I've been seperating the panels so I can repair some rust in the old BJ73. Drilling the spot welds out and cursing whilst trying to seperate someone else's terrible repair jobs.

Anyway, I was thinking. Instead of re-welding the spot welds back in place, could I use some sort of fixing (rivets, rivnuts, small bolts, etc) to bolt them back on instead? That way I can remove them again if required.
Also would get away from welding and burning off the metal treatment.

Any thoughts?

 

[SNLC]

No, do it properly, weld it.

Cheers

 

[jblueridge]

I have what seems like a million plug welds to do on my old MGB. I know what you mean.

I have found that a cheap 1/2” belt sander can take away one layer of a factory weld to get panels apart. Also good for smoothing seams and welds.

I have used panel adhesive on parts that aren’t structural. Glue acts like a good seam sealer.

 

[JuanJ]

No, do it properly, weld it.

Cheers

Hello,

x2.

Rivets/rivnuts/bolts break invariably. It is not a question of if, but of when. Body makers replaced them for a reason.





Juan

 

[AirheadNut]

Reading stories of people traveling through Africa or the Australian Outback in old Land Rovers they always carried pop rivets to replace ones that failed on the tracks. Spot welding is definitely superior.

 

[fullthrottle]

Cheers all for the advice.
I think I've settled on a plan and gotten guidance also from another group of car restoration enthusiasts.

I'll use something like UPOL weld-through primer to prime up all the seams, paint up all the inside hard to reach areas with my usual 2k primer and top coats. Then spot weld them all back into place. Prime and paint and finish by filling the seams with a layer of Dinitrol ML, then a layer of Dinitrol 1000. Maybe some thicker seam sealer on top for any larger gaps.

 

[jblueridge]

When I do a bunch of spot or plug welds, I have an air gun handy to cool the metal. If you have a helper with the air, it is easier.