Painting Steel Frame Road Bike

[Jetboy]

So I've got a pair of old road bikes. A windsor and a centurion. I'm going to turn them into commuter style bikes. Probably going to go flat bar with both for a bit more upright riding position. Anyway I've stripped both down and sandblasted them. I've got them almost ready for paint. Hoping to do it this week sometime, but we'll see if I get around to it.

I'm still trying to decide what to do with colors. The wife wants purple, so I'm thinking something like two tone, with dark purple accents under a light purple body color. I'm not sure if both being metallic or just the accent color. I'm thinking something like wavy pin stripes or something. Suggestions are welcome.

As for mine I have no idea even what color to go with. Part of me thinks matte grey, but the other part wants to go with something like red/black combo. Or maybe red/silver? I'm just not sure.

If you have any tips on painting bikes I'm all ears. I'm planing to do a std paint job of primer, accent color, mask, body color, clear. And I think I'll buy a cheap trim gun to shoot with. I think I'd waste a lot of paint with my full size HVLP. I'll probably go with some type of off brand auto paint.

Also if you have any paint schemes that you like I'd love to see em.

I'll put some pics up once I get started.

 

[wxm]

Well, the color is pretty much a personal choice. Just keep in mind, you want the color stands out in low light or dark situation as you will use it for commuting... My personal choice is orange or chrome (or even white).

As of painting, I don't know whether you open for powder coating. There are local places do it for less than $100 (you might get even cheaper as your had sandblasted and cleaned the frame). It is better in a long run plus with cost of paint, tool and setup. You don't really save too much by doing it yourself.

 

[mwood5]

Yeah, I'd powder coat. It looks great, is pretty cheap and a lot less trouble.

m

 

[Jetboy]

I'm pretty confident I'd save money by powder coating. And probably end up with a better final product. But, I just kinda want to do it myself for fun. I think I could get em powder coated for probably ~$30 each. My dad owns a metal fab shop and of course is friends with the powder coaters. Heck they'd probably do it for a case of beer. I guess I just want to do it myself.

 

[Unarce]

Maybe have the base color powder-coated, so you have some corrosion protection (especially with a steel frame).

 

[Jetboy]

I'm painting these bitches today! So far so good. I've got the first one primed and first color coated. I'll post pics when I'm done.

 

[Jetboy]

Here's a few pics.

 

[Jetboy]

Couple more

 

[Jetboy]

Got one assembled today. I decided to go flatbar. This is the wifes. I'm very pleased with the way they turned out. I was concerned about the mtb style shifters working with the roadbike derailleurs, but they shift normally, at least in my garage test ride.. The brakes are an adjustable pull length and I put them on the setting for cantilever brakes and they seem fine. It's been snowing today so no real good shakedown run yet. I put a cheap walmart saddle on, not sure what it'll end up with. I'll let her pick one out I guess. I don't expect it to last long, although it's really not too bad comfort wise.

Also you can see one brake cable hanging. I couldn't find the little clamps for it, but they are on there now. I think they are the only dura-ace parts on the bike...

Edit: Anyone know what the name for the little clamp on bracket on the down tube is? It's the one just down from the head tube that the shift cable housings stop at. One bike had stem shifters and had the bracket there, the other had down tube shifters, so no bracket. I need to buy one, but I don't know what they are called.

 

[2mbb]

Really nice paint job. I've been thinking about painting a steel bianchi I have, but my options are pretty much limited to spray cans (no compressor big enough). I'm thinking about using hammertone finishes to hide imperfections in the paint job.

newer road bikes generally have "shifter bosses" brazed onto the down tube. Then you can purchase cable stops that fit over the bosses for the STI shifters, etc. These cable stops have integrated adjusting barrels.

If you just need cable stops, that's what they are called "cable stops". Some places you might be able to find this type of part are below. These stops generally do not have the adjusting barrels. However, you can also get in-line adjusters for cables.

Loose Screws Bicycle Small Parts - FORMERLY THE THIRD HAND/LOOSE SCREWS

Lugged steel bicycles, wool clothing, and leather saddles from Rivendell Bicycle Works (or other retro bike dealers)

Bicycle Parts and Accessories from Harris Cyclery, Newton, Masschusetts (harris also has a link to the QBP catalog. Harris and the sheldon brown bicycle pages have extensive information)

Next time, you might want to think about trying to braze on the cable stops or shifter bosses yourself before you paint the bike. You can purchase the small parts from a place like this:

Cycle Frame Tubing :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc. :: The Framebuilder's Source" is the dominant supplier of cycle frame building materials in North America

 

[wxm]

Edit: Anyone know what the name for the little clamp on bracket on the down tube is? It's the one just down from the head tube that the shift cable housings stop at. One bike had stem shifters and had the bracket there, the other had down tube shifters, so no bracket. I need to buy one, but I don't know what they are called.

I think they are called "clamp-on downtube cable stops". You will need to make sure it is a "clamp-on" type as the cable stops nowadays are very different (IE the frames mostly have brazed-ons.)

Good job of restoring it!

 

[2mbb]

sorry for going on and on it the post above. I think this is exactly what you want:

Bicycle Shift (Gear) Cable Hardware from Harris Cyclery (scroll down to "housing stops")

 

[Jetboy]

Thanks! that's exactly what I need. I wish I would have known so I could have brazed a couple on. I didn't really know how the shift cables worked.

I'm going to see if the local bike coop has a used one.

The rear derailleurs seem to work, but the springs aren't great. Especially when the smallest gears are used the chain has some slack. Is it OK to use something like this? Either with or without a new cassette?

?

And, what about a new rear cassette like this?

For the days I commute I ride up a pretty good hill. It takes the lowest gear on my mountain bike and it's steep enough that the sidewalk has stairs. How do I know if the cassette will fit on my old wheel? Is it even possible?

 

[wxm]

Thanks! that's exactly what I need. I wish I would have known so I could have brazed a couple on. I didn't really know how the shift cables worked.

I wouldn't braze them on, in case you decide to go with fixie down the road, you'd grind them off again, or use the weather form to cover them like I did to my commuter.

The old derailleurs have a lot room to play around (as they only had to work for 6/7 speed). Before spending on new gears, you may try to pull the cable a little tighter. ( You can always use the stopper to control on both ends), unless of course you have your mind set of the new gears.

 

[2mbb]

if your chain is slack on the smallest gears it could be that it is too long, or the derailleur does not have the capacity for your range of gears (now-a-days due to wide gear ranges, they make long, mid, and short length rear derailleurs). To set the chain length, I know of two methods. One is to put the chain on the big chain ring and small cassette gear. The correct chain length will position the derailleur to point straight down. The other way is to have a chain just long enough to fit around the large chain ring and the large cassette gear.

By the way, technically you should not use the "big/big" or "small/small" gear combination, especially with a triple chain ring. Not only does it put the rear derailleur at it's extreme it also results in the largest chain angle which put's lateral stress on your chain.

 

[Jetboy]

It just seems like the derailleur springs are pretty weak. I stripped it down and it's clean. It just seemed like it might be easier to throw a whole new one in there than replace springs. I can pull a few links out of the chain and see how it is. I figured a lower end replacement rear derailleur would be reasonably cheap and more reliable than the one that's on there. The one advantage to the current ones is that they are limited in movement so they won't push the chain off. The shifters are 3 and 7 speeds, so another derailleur with more range might be an issue.

They are both 10 speed bikes, so I really don't need anything special. It only has to move over 5 gears. I guess that'd be another advantage of adding the extra rear gear.

Only reason I'd replace the cassette because it'd be nice so have an extra low gear.

 

[wxm]

It just seems like the derailleur springs are pretty weak. I stripped it down and it's clean. It just seemed like it might be easier to throw a whole new one in there than replace springs. I can pull a few links out of the chain and see how it is. I figured a lower end replacement rear derailleur would be reasonably cheap and more reliable than the one that's on there. The one advantage to the current ones is that they are limited in movement so they won't push the chain off. The shifters are 3 and 7 speeds, so another derailleur with more range might be an issue.

They are both 10 speed bikes, so I really don't need anything special. It only has to move over 5 gears. I guess that'd be another advantage of adding the extra rear gear.

Only reason I'd replace the cassette because it'd be nice so have an extra low gear.

Unlike the high end Campy, the Shimano and Suntour parts are not very easy to service. Are you sure that you did not lose an extra "turn" when you put spring together?

As of the extra low gear, keep in mind the bigger the gear, the hard to shift. Unless you live in a very hilly place, you might not need it.

By the way, the derailleur that you pictured will not work for you as you don't have a rear derailleur hanger. You will need the claw type of hanger for your old bike (the old style might not be easy find these days. I think I might have one in my part bin, at bottom of all my auto part bins now. I will take a picture for you if I can find it.)

 

[Jetboy]

Unlike the high end Campy, the Shimano and Suntour parts are not very easy to service. Are you sure that you did not lose an extra "turn" when you put spring together?

As of the extra low gear, keep in mind the bigger the gear, the hard to shift. Unless you live in a very hilly place, you might not need it.

By the way, the derailleur that you pictured will not work for you as you don't have a rear derailleur hanger. You will need the claw type of hanger for your old bike (the old style might not be easy find these days. I think I might have one in my part bin, at bottom of all my auto part bins now. I will take a picture for you if I can find it.)

Would that derailleur work if it was the the other style? I just picked a stock photo for example. I can buy them either way. Something like this would be better right? I mean they are only $10.

None of the better units come in the old style and for me I'm not all that sure it'd matter. I'm not racing, just commuting.

 

[wxm]

Would that derailleur work if it was the the other style? I just picked a stock photo for example. I can buy them either way. Something like this would be better right? I mean they are only $10.

Yes, that's it.

I agree with you about not to spend too much on it. I bought those spare for "upgrade". But having experienced of losing brake in rain, adjusting gears while in a rush, I went to the opposite direction - rid of all the gears, and went with fixie. I don't mean to suggest you do the same, especially if you are living hilly area, and it could be also awkward if you not use to it, and sometimes dangerous. (Ask me how I know.:whoops

 

[2mbb]

The one advantage to the current ones is that they are limited in movement so they won't push the chain off. The shifters are 3 and 7 speeds, so another derailleur with more range might be an issue.



Only reason I'd replace the cassette because it'd be nice so have an extra low gear.

Derailleurs have adjusting screws to limit movement in and out. You should be able to set up your new one for the rear gear set that you have. I assume your shifters are friction and not index shifting?

You may not have a cassette, but a freewheel on the rear wheel. Newer hubs have the freewheel mechanism built into the wheel hub, and the gears alone come off (like the cassette you picture above). Older hubs use a freewheel with gears. You can still get freewheels from some of the vendors I linked above. Another way to change gears, which might be cheaper, is to use a smaller chainring in the front.