Paint recommendations for PTO winch

[Overlord]

I'm rebuilding PTO winch and was wondering what paint would you guys recommend? I'm going to try a product called AM-700 etch primer that I can get locally and was recommended by a friend. But what about a top coat? Rustoleum? Krylon?

I have painted a few of the parts. I used Rustoelum primer and top coat. 2 coats primer, 3 coats semi-gloss. Some of the parts that aren't cast, like the driveshafts, the paint is starting flake off. The paint on the cast parts seams to be ok though. Maybe the reason the cast parts hold paint better is cause of the textured nature of cast parts? Maybe the metal etching primer would be better on the smooth/bare shiny metal (driveshafts)?

I would prefer to use a more durable/higher quality paint. The PTO winch is for my FJ60 and since they're pretty rare in the US, I would like for it to last a long time.

 

[CruisinGA]

I don't know about specifically the PTO winch, but in general, I have had very good luck with the Rustoleum "hard hat" industrial black enamel.

If applied properly it leaves a nice glossy finish, and is very hard. Available at HD etc.

 

[Overlord]

Any one ever use Por-15 Hardnose paint? Looks like it would be pretty durable.

 

[Doug_S]

Napa Auto sells their brand under Martin Seynour (sp) which is very durable. The cool thing about it is that it can be put in with a brush and it flows out as if it was sprayed. They have a lot of colors to choose from. I've painted a few motorcycle and sidecar frames with it and it's great!

If course if you have it apart and you really want to "do it right" I'd suggest that you get to know a good powder coater. Super durable.

 

[Degnol]

Well, to confuse things...I have used a PlastiKote product called "Cast Finish". It looks like cast iron, takes 600* heat and is resistant to most fluids it will encounter.
JMO
Ed

 

[Pinion]

I have used Magnetpaint Chassis Saver on external parts as well as my frame. That stuff will take a beating and not chip. I have smacked it with a 2# mallet by accident and nothing happened to it. It would need to be topcoated though with paint of your choice, no need to worry about how good the topcoat paint is as it is mainly there to block the UV rays.

 

[JohnL]

I used the POR15 hardnose paint. I am generally a big fan of POR, but the Hardnose was a pain (2-part) and I didn't get any better results than simply PORing and covering with gloss chassis black. That was very durable.

ALso, maybe I got sloppy or the Hardnose paint is more finicky, but it peeled off in a few places...something I never saw with the straight POR.

 

[Ground Up]

I rebuilt my PTO and used the POR and chassis coat black. I believe the key to the longevity of the product is to sandblast all parts. caot the part wait a day or two and then scothc brite the part and paint over with the chassis coat black. I thought about having the parts powder caoted but decided against it because there are some tight tolerance parts that I would have to be sanding the powder coat down to fit.

The key with POR as said before is proper surface prep. I have found that the sandblasting and whering latex gloves so as not to leave any oils from your hands works the best.

 

[IDave]

My plan is to go Sniper's route. After a few other projects....

 

[SNLC]

if a part gets warm or hot such as a gear box you will want to use some kind of high temp paint. Otherwise heat will make it flake off. Personally I am going to try out some machinery paint and tractor paint. Should be able to walk into any CAT or John Deer dealer and pick it up for reasonable price. Industrial paint just seems toughest to me....also marine type stuff.

 

[SNLC]

oh yea...sandblasting is good way to go and prep plus keeping it clean is also important. But a sandblaster is not required if you can get the parts super clean by hand. Etching primer is a good idea before painting anything. IMHO

 

[Chase77]

Rust bullet

Im in the process of basically doing my entire 40 top to bottom with Bullet. It is very easy to use and would be a good route if you're considering POR 15. Would need a top coat if you dont want the silver color though. If your cool with the gunmetal/silver though it is pretty damn strong and uv resistant . good luck.