Paint question, cost of...

[Mad Chemist]

I got quoted ~400 bucks for 1 gallon of acrylic urethane (Dune Beige, for those of you that care) with hardener and reducer, and ~300 bucks for 1 gallon of acrylic enamel, including hardener and reducer. Does this sound about right for PPG paint? Is going to urethane worth the extra 100 bucks for the supposedly more durable finish?

Thanks in advance!

 

[desertdude]

Depends on the level of PPG you buy. Also depends on weather you are in the sun all day long and/or trail riding or street. I chose the urethane but I think my price was less per gallon.

 

[Mad Chemist]

I'm in Seattle, so I guess that probably answers your question about sun exposure! This will be mostly a trail rig, and stored in a garage in between rides, so it sounds like I might want to save myself the 100 bucks....

 

[Scott R]

Cheap paint will run you $10 ~ $12 a pint, good paint like PPG ULTRA will run $22/pint. Superior paint like Glasurit and Dupont will run $40/pint. As far as reducer and hardner you can pretty much by the cheapest reducer available they are all pretty much the same. Hardner on the other hand needs to be the suggested hardner by the paint manufacturer, however it's always reasonable. And of course if you want to get exotic and add thinning agents or such those are pretty cheap depending on what your doing.

$400 for everything had better be some pretty fantastic paint! And at a gallon you could coat an LC a few times over and have some to spare! Find a decent paint shop and price shop, the worese the neighborhood here in Denver the cheaper the paint. You can paint an entire car for $40 here if you go with the cheap stuff!

 

[desertdude]

Stay with the same brand/level at least this is what my PPG man suggested. I think you could save the dough. Primer and prep is where the hard work is

 

[mxfj40]

sorry

 

[Herky]

Is the 74 F engine the best of the F engines? I heard they have a better oil system. I have a 71 FJ40 and I am thinking about a rebuild soon. Should I rebuild my 71 motor or try to find a 74 to rebuild? Thanks in advance for any help given.

Hello random thread dude. I believe you are correct on the oil system but you should probably search or start a new thread. Its a lot more likely to get an answer than at the bottom of a paint thread

 

[Mad Chemist]

Thanks fellas, despite the thread hijack!

 

[80cruiserscool]

according to my paint supplier here in memphis I usually can get a gallon of paint for around 85 duckets! the hardner would be around 50 and reducer is only 25 to 30..
I would definitely shop around for a honest paint supplier. now colors due range on pricing with red being the most expensive. but tell him you know his pricing is a little high and see if he will work it down or go somewhere else!
later

 

[JohnL]

I don'te recall all the breakout (receipts out in the garage) but my all-in costs for the prep supplies, primer, solvents, papers, paints and buffing was ~700 altogether. I laid down 3 coats of PPF Acrylic Urethane and have a lot left over.

 

[CRZRJames]

I used PPG Acrylic Enamel on my FJ40 and paid upwards of $400 for a gallon including hardener, reducer, thinner, sandpaper, sanding primer, epoxy primer, etc. Basically everything needed to do a paint job. The gallon quantity was sufficient for me to take the entire body apart, remove old paint and re-prime and paint in sections. By doing this, you will waste a lot of paint. The more pieces you can get prepared to paint at one time, the more efficient you will be however, that is determined by the amount of space you have available. You can easily paint an entire automobile with a quart of paint (color, add reducer and hardener to make close to 3/4 gallon of paint).
James

 

[Yoda]

My guy hre in NB quoted me less than that. What year dune beige you looking for? I'll see what he says.

 

[Steve C]

It's hard to make a direct comparison of cost without knowing spefically what products are included in the price.

 

[TexomaFJ40]

Abit high.... Even the Chromobase series shouldn't run you that much. The ChromoOne series (1-step) is only about $375 for base and hardener but I haven't had much luck with it. The ChromoBase series will run about $400 for Base + Hardner + Reducer and a good ChromoClear + Hardener + Reducer (everything).

 

[Mad Chemist]

The 300 bucks for enamel and 400 for urethane included the hardener and reducer in both cases, for 1 gallon of paint. I'm looking at a single stage paint, with no plans to clearcoat. This was for T-416, which I think was used from 75-79? I did see a *gasp* jeep with a nice beige-looking paint job, that was just a bit darker than the Toyota color. This is by no means a restoration, and is meant to be functional. A durable paint that will look nice, yet still hide all the Northwest pinstriping it'll hopefully get, is what I'm looking for. Thanks for all the advice and comments! I've got to check with a local NAPA today and see what they want...

 

[71FJ40]

Also keep in mind with the urethanes you should absolutely have a respirator with pumped in fresh air while for the enamels, generally speaking, a canister type filter based respirator will work.

 

[Scott R]

From what your describing you should go after OMNI single stage enamel then. Cheap, easy to shoot and durable. Better than shooting urethane anyway, ditto on the resperator comment, stuff is nasty.

 

[Mad Chemist]

Good safety comment- all I have is the cannister-type respirator, and will be doing it in my garage with some fans set up.

 

[ken_79-fj40]

I spent about 400 for a gallon of epoxy tintprime with reducer and hardener, and a gallon of red urethane with reducer and hardener. All napa crossfire stuff. I did a total color change and painted it all in pieces, no hard doors, no hardtop, I used it all.

 

[71FJ40]

I also find shooting enamel is a little more forgiving.
If you can, buy/rent a HVLP gun, it will drastically reduce airborne paint, minimize overspray and help keep the paint out of your lungs (and garage! )