Paint / Body Shop Recommendations in ATX (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 30, 2013
Threads
5
Messages
17
Location
Austin, TX
Hey There,

Have a Tan '82 FJ60 that's finally running great, but desperately needs some new paint and attention to small rust hot spots in various places. Would also be open to paint restoration, but think it may be too far gone at this point.

Anyone have recommendations as far as getting new paint and the rust taken care of?
 
Not super helpful but I did paint restoration on my 100 series this weekend b/c I didn't want to pay $1,000 for someone else to do it.

It was a lot of work (~12 hours over two days) but holy s*** does it look good. Doesn't fix rust but got all of the swirls, water spots and light scratches. So depending on how bad the rust is this could be an option.

Spent ~$250 on equipment and supplies. That said, you're welcome to use the tools I bought and would just need to get the consumables (clay bar lube, paint correction "stuff" and wax) <$100
 
I'll share a reco, Twomey Auto Works on South Congress. Don is the owner and does a lot of classic work and both Rising Sun and LCS in Austin send him Land Cruiser work. I thought it was a great shop and they let me do some work on saturday mornings while they had the truck apart. Good luck.
 
I'll share a reco, Twomey Auto Works on South Congress. Don is the owner and does a lot of classic work and both Rising Sun and LCS in Austin send him Land Cruiser work. I thought it was a great shop and they let me do some work on saturday mornings while they had the truck apart. Good luck.
Thanks for the rec! Gonna stop by tomorrow morning and see what they say. All the reviews and pictures look great.
 
Not super helpful but I did paint restoration on my 100 series this weekend b/c I didn't want to pay $1,000 for someone else to do it.

It was a lot of work (~12 hours over two days) but holy s*** does it look good. Doesn't fix rust but got all of the swirls, water spots and light scratches. So depending on how bad the rust is this could be an option.

Spent ~$250 on equipment and supplies. That said, you're welcome to use the tools I bought and would just need to get the consumables (clay bar lube, paint correction "stuff" and wax) <$100

That's awesome man! Congrats. I did a lot of research on paint restoration, but don't think I have the gumption to take on a project on like that. You have before and after pics?

The paint on mine looks every bit of 40 years old - no clear coat, dirt impossible to get out of the paint etc...but I bet I could get it looking pretty good if I really put the work in.
 
Thanks for the rec! Gonna stop by tomorrow morning and see what they say. All the reviews and pictures look great.
Will you post back your findings? When I reach your stage of the game I'll be searching for some body work/paint help. I'm curious to see how you find these folks.
 
Honestly it's not mentally hard. It's just a lot of time and making sure you do the prep.

Should have done a better job of same picture and placement but I was dead tired after finishing and lighting sucked. I had a wind deflector on the hood which made the line in the front so bad. After a good wash, clay bar and the paint correction looks brand new.

Front Fender Before.jpg
Hood Before.jpg
Hood After.jpg
Side After.jpg
 
I'll share a reco, Twomey Auto Works on South Congress. Don is the owner and does a lot of classic work and both Rising Sun and LCS in Austin send him Land Cruiser work. I thought it was a great shop and they let me do some work on saturday mornings while they had the truck apart. Good luck.
They did a great job on an 80 hood for me a few years ago.

By the way, they were in south Congress across from the school for the deaf since the seventies I think, but there’s a condo there now. They’ve moved further south.
 
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Honestly it's not mentally hard. It's just a lot of time and making sure you do the prep.

Should have done a better job of same picture and placement but I was dead tired after finishing and lighting sucked. I had a wind deflector on the hood which made the line in the front so bad. After a good wash, clay bar and the paint correction looks brand new.

View attachment 2764232View attachment 2764233View attachment 2764235View attachment 2764236
Looks awesome! What an improvement!
 
Honestly it's not mentally hard. It's just a lot of time and making sure you do the prep.

Should have done a better job of same picture and placement but I was dead tired after finishing and lighting sucked. I had a wind deflector on the hood which made the line in the front so bad. After a good wash, clay bar and the paint correction looks brand new.

View attachment 2764232View attachment 2764233View attachment 2764235View attachment 2764236
Looks great man!
 
Will you post back your findings? When I reach your stage of the game I'll be searching for some body work/paint help. I'm curious to see how you find these folks.
Yeah definitely, I'm going to try to run by this morning as long as work doesn't throw me a curve ball.
 
So talked to the fellas at Twomey's. Super nice guys, but they say these types of projects don't make them a whole lot of money and they are slammed with the more high-margin jobs at the moment. Said they can squeeze it in in the fall once things slow down a bit.

Quoted around 15K for rust removal and repainting the entire truck. Worth noting that they are highly discouraging repainting a different color since they'd have to repaint all the jambs and such.

Will update the thread when things start moving, but in the meantime I may be taking a clay bar to it.
 
So talked to the fellas at Twomey's. Super nice guys, but they say these types of projects don't make them a whole lot of money and they are slammed with the more high-margin jobs at the moment. Said they can squeeze it in in the fall once things slow down a bit.

Quoted around 15K for rust removal and repainting the entire truck. Worth noting that they are highly discouraging repainting a different color since they'd have to repaint all the jambs and such.

Will update the thread when things start moving, but in the meantime I may be taking a clay bar to it.
Thanks for doing the leg work. 15k is a little more than what I was expecting but I’m not totally shocked. Gives me perspective and a goal I suppose. If you’re gonna try paint correction show us some before and afters!
 
I have two options, one is local and one in San Antonio.

the local shop does a very good job for not a lot of money.

it all depends what you looking for, concourse or very good daily driver.

Austin - Anthonio Limon - (512) 956-3450 (amazing work for daily driver, very cheap)
San Antonio - Oscar - (832) 277-1747
 
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I visited Twomeys and was told pretty much the same thing as @PJATX - except the number was more like 20k. That's for doing it right - disassemble everything, remove glass and rubber, media blast back to bare metal, rust repair, new two-tone paint finish, reassembly. Plus a healthy dose of fingers-crossed that rubber and trim doesn't go missing or break. A multi-month project.

Also visited @studio19atx 's rec Antonio. He gave me an option that was $4-5k; tape off glass and rubber, get after the rust areas in whatever way they can (which does not always mean weld new metal in place), sand, prime, paint, lots of clear coat. 2-3 week project. Will probably look pretty good, but will have compromises for sure. Their shop location and condition doesn't really scream professional or secure, but I saw some of the work they have going on and the recommendation helps.
 
I visited Twomeys and was told pretty much the same thing as @PJATX - except the number was more like 20k. That's for doing it right - disassemble everything, remove glass and rubber, media blast back to bare metal, rust repair, new two-tone paint finish, reassembly. Plus a healthy dose of fingers-crossed that rubber and trim doesn't go missing or break. A multi-month project.

Also visited @studio19atx 's rec Antonio. He gave me an option that was $4-5k; tape off glass and rubber, get after the rust areas in whatever way they can (which does not always mean weld new metal in place), sand, prime, paint, lots of clear coat. 2-3 week project. Will probably look pretty good, but will have compromises for sure. Their shop location and condition doesn't really scream professional or secure, but I saw some of the work they have going on and the recommendation helps.
This is awesome intel, thanks for doing the leg work and reporting back!
 
I visited Twomeys and was told pretty much the same thing as @PJATX - except the number was more like 20k. That's for doing it right - disassemble everything, remove glass and rubber, media blast back to bare metal, rust repair, new two-tone paint finish, reassembly. Plus a healthy dose of fingers-crossed that rubber and trim doesn't go missing or break. A multi-month project.

Also visited @studio19atx 's rec Antonio. He gave me an option that was $4-5k; tape off glass and rubber, get after the rust areas in whatever way they can (which does not always mean weld new metal in place), sand, prime, paint, lots of clear coat. 2-3 week project. Will probably look pretty good, but will have compromises for sure. Their shop location and condition doesn't really scream professional or secure, but I saw some of the work they have going on and the recommendation helps.

This is really good and most accurate write up. I am planning to use Antonio for 1 of my FJ62s, it’s rust free, original paint and has almost no dent.

Before I hand in the truck, I plan to take off the glasses and door handles etc. Little bit of effort from my side might make a difference in truck looking really good without much additional cost.

I have seen Antonio’s work on multiple cars and his work is very good for the price. It won’t be concourse but definitely won’t be Maaco.
 

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