Optimal cable routing for Temporary roof rack with LED lights, LC100 (1 Viewer)

Patineto

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So I'm ready to install a 36" light bar and two Ridgit square spots (for now maybe more later for camping/working etc)

In any case the drag/noise from the Thule basket is noticeable (I'm going to drop down the basket height about 3 inches and make a wind shield, but they don't really improve that much)

The plan is to take the basket on and off depending on the trips/needs so the wires will need to be able to be disconnected easily..

I think the smarter way is to drill 1/2" on the upper tube of rack since the lower tube tend to collect water (is a old rack, I don't care about hacking, they are already full of "Rust preventer" anyway) and run the wires inside a shielded string wrap or whatever you suggest.

I also plan to run the main wire to the back of the truck even if is more of a pain to run all the wires forward, why well less noise, less visual/wind disturbance, just cleaner
IMG_7325-XL.jpg


Thanks to the vultures at the pick and pull (in Salt lake city) I did not have many choices in terms of lighting control, but I did find this awesome set up from a 86-87 Mercedes (oh I love the quality of this era mercedes) and also a setup from a Saab 9000.
IMG_7389-XL.jpg


Obviously I can just operate the lights with stock switches but I want the run OEM and the aftermarket at the same time but sometimes that is not such a great idea, so a control like the one from the Mercedes will be really helpful and very easy to see/Operate..

So what do you guys think, I'm kind of clueless about electric stuff..
 
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I ran a wire for my rear spoiler mounted LED like this. You could probably do the same on your 100 series and attach the connector to your factory roof rack.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 

Patineto

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I ran a wire for my rear spoiler mounted LED like this. You could probably do the same on your 100 series and attach the connector to your factory roof rack.

View attachment 1301865
View attachment 1301866
Nice job, So just you drill a single hole right under the hinge or is the hole already made off, thanks

The little sticky squares are very useful too..
 
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Thanks. Drilled a hole, touch up paint and then grommet. Just have to be a bit careful pulling down the headliner a bit to get access.
 

Patineto

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Thanks. Drilled a hole, touch up paint and then grommet. Just have to be a bit careful pulling down the headliner a bit to get access.
I'm good with Careful, why you did not go the lower way where all the speaker and tail lights get routed (Actually I don't know where they go on this truck is very new to me.)
 

Patineto

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Any Experience with a selector switch like the one from the mercedes...??

I will love to implement something like it even if the wiring will be a nightmare, Even better if it is a less bulky, tall, analog unit.

I'm a instrument/display lay out freak (Ergonomics, active high efficiency/low energy consumption biomechanics geek, Paris dakar bikes, Race Across AMerica bicycles, ironbutt motorcycle record holders) and Ias possible (base Muscle memory, millisecond reaction times, no visual clue, primary/secondary reach envelops) want to keep the controls as simple, clear, easy to understand even if they are running complex task, instead of a million switches (No space for them anyway) like on the space shuttle..
 
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I'm good with Careful, why you did not go the lower way where all the speaker and tail lights get routed (Actually I don't know where they go on this truck is very new to me.)

I did the same lower down on the PS for my CB antenna cable. I did not want to ru. A wire from that location up to the roof area exposed as there was no way to properly secure it from moving around under the upper hatch and body.
Any Experience with a selector switch like the one from the mercedes...??

I will love to implement something like it even if the wiring will be a nightmare, Even better if it is a less bulky, tall, analog unit.

I'm a instrument/display lay out freak (Ergonomics, active high efficiency/low energy consumption biomechanics geek, Paris dakar bikes, Race Across AMerica bicycles, ironbutt motorcycle record holders) and Ias possible (base Muscle memory, millisecond reaction times, no visual clue, primary/secondary reach envelops) want to keep the controls as simple, clear, easy to understand even if they are running complex task, instead of a million switches (No space for them anyway) like on the space shuttle..

I would suggest using a OEM Toyota style switch designed to fit into a factory blank spot if you have one. I've done that for a few things like on-board air, driving lights, and a manual override for the spoiler light bar, but that switch was mounted in my cargo area. Will likely add a second for my telescopic work light.
 

Patineto

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I did the same lower down on the PS for my CB antenna cable. I did not want to ru. A wire from that location up to the roof area exposed as there was no way to properly secure it from moving around under the upper hatch and body.
Hundred percent..
I would suggest using a OEM Toyota style switch designed to fit into a factory blank spot if you have one. I've done that for a few things like on-board air, driving lights, and a manual override for the spoiler light bar, but that switch was mounted in my cargo area. Will likely add a second for my telescopic work light.

Yes I have those too, but they will need to be a SIx position switch, from no lights, to all lights working at unison.. in short a whole dash full of toggles..
 

Patineto

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Ok, I see. We had a commercial version of military light switch on the Canadian Army G Wagon, but I cant't find any pics.

Here is a link to some MB light switches.

military g wagon light switch - Google Search

I was never a Driver or co-driver on Welandawagem tactical exercises or in action, but I do remember something like this..
008-a_Exterior_Light_Switch.jpg


This was in the 80'..

But the ones I remember where much more like the one I got (The selector knob about 45 mm tall and 45-50mm in diameter) just mount it on a "Recessed cup", so your knee, PM-5, gear, etc will not change the settings on it if got bump..

The one I got from pick and pull the other day.
IMG_7390-XL.jpg



This one is a thing of beauty, I live kinda close (in SLC Utah) to the massive Hummer auction house, Maybe they have some of them for sale.
s-l400.jpg
 
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Patineto

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I think I have something that you guys are going to like..

I think it will be ready by tomorrow..
 

Patineto

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I can not install the light bar in the basket at the moment but is already very solid.

Two 110mm 31.8mm handlebar diameter bicycle stems (cheap, $20 at most, but I have a bunch of them doing nothing, guess what exactly the same diameter as the MOAB rack, no spacers, no coca cola shims, nothing just solid 1 1/4- 1 1/2' clamping area.
image-XL.jpg


The MOAB rack has a pronounced Bow, so is not so easy to install a light that is suppose to have parallel mounting points..

Well the secret are this bushing and a slot cut on the stem in the 1 1/8" steering tube part, that way with the bushings the stems has a few degrees of motion sufficient to make it very firm,square and rigid, this things is not moving after adjusted that is for sure..
image-XL.jpg


The wimpy clamps they sell on amazon are useless, so weak, so flimsy, the force of the wind is no joke.

I'm going to used the hole for the steering column to mount a very rigid spoilers (so far a very wide, trash snowboard, but with a lot of "pop" so it conform to shapes with little trouble.(no harmonics, no high speed vibrations and this holes are going to serve the purpose of holding another set of stems so the spoiler is totally rigid but also adjustable and tunable (Very hard since this whole thing of air vortex, noise, suction, etc)

I'm not sure what is the ultimate spot for the lights (Plus I need to make a fairings, but before that I want to install one more section of the roof basket (and four rack tubes) and that is going to change the air profile in a big way, so I will start the fairing after the baskets is fully extended.
image-XL.jpg


This way the light will be almost at the bottom of the rack, Yes I know the Rigid lights are wonky but is just a proof of concept.
image-XL.jpg


I mount it on the truck but I don't like the way the Rigid lights look, they are not even wired up..

Maybe I need to make a bracket and make a square Pod for all fours next to the bike rack..
image-XL.jpg


I also need longer stems, sadly they don't really make anything longer than 130mm and finding used ones is next to impossible..
image-XL.jpg


The bends on the curves match pretty well, I got lucky that way if the light was straight I be Fubar..
image-XL.jpg


First I need to drop the rack down (about 3 inches) then wait to get another set of Thule connectors from Etrailer and see where the basket up so I can calculate the size of the require fairing, actually I'm thinking of a airfoil (Vortex generator) but I will need to consult the experts.
image-XL.jpg
 

Patineto

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Second try for the lights, yes they look exactly the same, I re-machine all the delrin and stems because they were side loading the bolts. The structure it self is working great, but I'm going to try something else, the wind noise is just to much for me to handle.

Next step, to mount the light behind the front of the Moab basket, yes is going to have some tube intrusions on the way, but at least the stems will have plenty of length to locate the lights very low and next to the floor of the basket, issues reflexion/diffusion if I use a lexan shield.

The light bars Is just to freaking high..
image-XL.jpg


Let me try to explain, at the moment with the 30 deggre angle of the downward tubes of the basket, the stems will need to be about 170mm (200-210mm will be great but it will start to flex like a palm tree) to locate the LED bar lower in reference to the basket, sadly I just don't have the machinery and/or skill to make them seamless and nobody makes a 170mm stem, so is plan B is testing the backwards position.

Going backwards with the lights will actually don't take much space on the basket but the light will not be as noticeable until they are On.
image-XL.jpg



Notice the downward tubes, the source of the issue.
image-XL.jpg



Next, next step, to drop the basket as much as possible (40mm lower I hope, I'm just waiting for the part), then extend the basket 18 inches (because currently some stuff will not fit up there) and then start to work on a way to diminish the noise/wind effects..

I never consider this as failures, they are all part of a process of acclimatization, getting to know and having fun with the parts of the truck, if this was a paying contract the process will be very different, but when is for fun, let's make it happy time and geek out as much as possible.
 

Patineto

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Like your style @Patineto - Titec, got one on my old Homegrown.

Talking about style, I love that bike, so little money for such a great riding fame..

John parker is the man..

Today I try the light bar on the inside of the rack but by the time the stems spread to the angle they need they are at the radius of the of the basket and then don't fit..

Now to look for something else
 

Patineto

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Right when I got all the parts for my new Basket iteration, I decide to go the whole way and start from the room mounts and hopefully without any rusty Yakima tubes.

This shorty bicycle stem, will "Hang" the basket from the yakima tube, almost 2 1/2" gain in clearance.
image-XL.jpg


But I want more, I want to start the structure without the OEM roof rack beams, they are not that weak, they are just to tall.
image-XL.jpg


So for now reworking all the structure..
 

Patineto

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One thing let to another one, but with that LED bar been so high, I took everything apart and i'm starting from Zero..

It took me a few months but finally I found a sufficient amount of 80-20 extrusion to make my own flat platform rack.. (later I sell whatever I end up not using)
189850-1471140697-529067-S.jpg
 

Patineto

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Looking forward to what you come up with. Have thought about doing the same for several years.

The 80-20 extrusion system is the Lego of old people rich people ,sadly people with lots of money, well mostly companies, "labs", prototype shops"

Most of the DIY CnC routers, milling machines are base on this profiles since they are absolutely straight and very rigid so the sliding cranes can run efordlessly and with a high degree of precision

Plus no rust (I'm going to get all my bolts Zink coated) and much lighter than steel plus if you figure out a better way to conform it a few minutes with a Allen wrench and bumm is different.
 

Patineto

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Actually I drop the MOAB basket, to wimpy..

I'm making a flat plaftorm from 80-20 extrusions (Marvelous system)
IMG_8572-XL.jpg


This are the "Sides" but all the "Extenders" So my kiddos can have sleep overs..
IMG_8639-XL.jpg


I don't want to drill holes on the beams, I will prefer to find some kind of clips, or cover and run the wires on the slots of the extrusion

I hope to optimaze how wide the rack is going to be so i can actually get to start making it.....
 

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