OME shock length just doesn't make sense! (1 Viewer)

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LFD2037

TEXAS LEXUS!
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Wax., TEXAS
I know OME shocks have been talked about many, many times. I've read @ least 25 pages pertaining to their length BUT:
What I can't wrap my mind around is the fact that the shocks OME uses for their 2.5" lift(in my case will be 850/860's) is the same shocks they call for on stock rigs. Doesn't this mean I'm losing 2.5" of droop using their recommended shock length? Therefore, it would seem that I could use shocks 2.5" longer than they recommend(60018/60020's) & not have any problem w/compression but also get about 1.5" more extension. Is this not true? If not, what the heck am I missing?????? OME L's are a little less than 2" longer so technically I should have absolutely no problem NOT over-compressing them. But others say they will be ruined. PLEASE explain to me wth is the truth! :cheers:

++EDIT w/measurements!**

Ok, here's detailed spec's that, on paper, should confirm my thoughts:

What OME sells as stock replacement AND for their 2.5" kit- 60018 front, 60020 rear
What I think would work better- 60070L front, 60071L rear

OME shock lengths. Part #, compressed, extended & travel length

60018--14.1--24.3--10.2"

60020--14.9--24.6--9.7"

60070L--15--26.3--11.3"

60071L--15.2--26.9--11.3"

Factory front--13.9--23.7--9.8"

Factory rear--14.2--23.8--9.6"

Sooooooooo, OME 2.5" lift recommended front shocks are .4"(front) & .1"(rear) longer than stock. OME L shocks are 1.5"(front) and 1.7" longer than stock.

Since everybody says ask Slee, here's Slee's reservoir shock measurement:

FRONT--15.8--26.2--10.4"

REAR--15.2--25.2--10"

Conclusion: OME L shocks compressed length are 1.1"(front) & 1"(rear) longer than FACTORY shocks.
OME L compressed length are .8"(front) 0"(rear) SHORTER than Slee's shocks for 2.5" lift.
Other than needing spring retainers or limiting straps there should be absolutely NO problem, & better droop, using OME L's w/a 2.5" lift.

Does everybody agree or am I missing something, even though the #'s are clear now????????

I know this is extremely long winded but the OCD in me just had to figure this out!!!
 
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I inherited the OME lift 2.5" with heavy springs and the shocks. The springs seem to be fine but the shocks are garbage. TJMs i have in there now are awesome. They just seem quality from the getgo. the paint job on them is even nice. They are longs and work great and I get much better artiulation with them than the OME's.
 
I inherited the OME lift 2.5" with heavy springs and the shocks. The springs seem to be fine but the shocks are garbage. TJMs i have in there now are awesome. They just seem quality from the getgo. the paint job on them is even nice. They are longs and work great and I get much better artiulation with them than the OME's.
Are you running the Gold's or the Tiger's(adjustable)?
I've been trying like hell to buy a TJM 2" kit for almost the last month but everywhere seems to be back ordered till next month(haven't tried the overpriced places as I see no sense in paying an extra $200+). Which also makes me leary that if something TJM breaks it could be a couple months before I get my replacement part. Everybody has OME in stock.
 
I don't think it is that black and white. The 60018/60020 shocks are most likely sized for somewhere in between the stock height and the 2.5" lift height (probably closer to the 2.5" lift). So you may loose a little bit of droop in running the 2.5" springs, but may gain a little compression on the stock height.

The "L" shocks are often paired with the "J" lift, but as far as I know Slee uses these same shocks on their 4" and 6" lift kits.

Not optimal I'm sure, but I have been running the L shocks with a 2.5" lift for some time (got a good deal and said why not). I haven't had any issues with over compression or blowing out seals.
 
There is more to it than that. The OME shocks are designed to keep the springs captive. If you tried to run a shock that is longer then the springs will unseat. They stock height springs and the 2.5" lift springs are close to the same free length, but wound different so that they yield different light heights. That is the reason why you can run the same shocks with both lifts.

The shocks for the stock height and 2.5" lift is designed such that you can not over compress the shock on standard bump stops. Again, if you are going to increase droop with a longer shock, then you will have to make sure you can't possibly over compress them on the up stroke.
 
Not optimal I'm sure, but I have been running the L shocks with a 2.5" lift for some time (got a good deal and said why not). I haven't had any issues with over compression or blowing out seals.
Do you have stock bump stops? Limiting straps or spring retainers? Ever fully extended suspension enough to lift tire & spring fall/not fall out? Thanks.
 
Are you running the Gold's or the Tiger's(adjustable)?
I've been trying like hell to buy a TJM 2" kit for almost the last month but everywhere seems to be back ordered till next month(haven't tried the overpriced places as I see no sense in paying an extra $200+). Which also makes me leary that if something TJM breaks it could be a couple months before I get my replacement part. Everybody has OME in stock.

I am running Golds, but they are too long for the 863 heavies so i am going to put in spring retainers and extend my bumpstops. The shocks that came with the lift are just about stock height as mentioned above. I had to also extend the front brake lines for the longs up front
 
Do you have stock bump stops? Limiting straps or spring retainers? Ever fully extended suspension enough to lift tire & spring fall/not fall out? Thanks.

I have entended bumpstops but no straps or retainers. Don't recall ever lifting a tire, so can't comment on the spring remaining captive at full droop, although I have never had a spring fall out.
 
Anyone else running OME Sport 60070L in front and 60071L in rear for shocks w/the heavy front springs(850) and medium rears(860)? These shocks are the 'newer' version of the N73L and N74L.
 
Ok, here's detailed spec's that, on paper, should confirm my thoughts:

What OME sells as stock replacement AND for their 2.5" kit- 60018 front, 60020 rear
What I think would work better- 60070L front, 60071L rear

OME shock lengths. Part #, compressed, extended & travel length

60018--14.1--24.3--10.2"

60020--14.9--24.6--9.7"

60070L--15--26.3--11.3"

60071L--15.2--26.5--11.3"

Factory front--13.9--23.7--9.8"

Factory rear--14.2--23.8--9.6"

Sooooooooo, OME 2.5" lift recommended front shocks are .4"(front) & .1"(rear) longer than stock. OME L shocks are 1.5"(front) and 1.7" longer than stock.

Since everybody says ask Slee, here's Slee's reservoir shock measurement:

FRONT--15.8--26.2--10.4"

REAR--15.2--25.2--10"

Conclusion: OME L shocks compressed length are 1.1"(front) & 1"(rear) longer than FACTORY shocks.
OME L compressed length are .8"(front) 0"(rear) SHORTER than Slee's shocks for 2.5" lift.
Other than needing spring retainers or limiting straps there should be absolutely NO problem, & better droop, using OME L's w/a 2.5" lift.

Does everybody agree or am I missing something, even though the #'s are clear now????????

I know this is extremely long winded but the OCD in me just had to figure this out!!!
 
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Looks good, thats why i got the TJM longs because I reached the same conclusion. After having OME and TJM I recommend TJM gold longs. They are just well made.
 
Looks good, thats why i got the TJM longs because I reached the same conclusion. After having OME and TJM I recommend TJM gold longs. They are just well made.

TJM gold longs(650GBL120 & 220) are

FRONT--15.6--26.4--10.8"

REAR--15.7--26.2--10.5"

You might be ok w/them but might need 1" extended bumpstops. The OME L's have a shorter compressed length(which is VERY important in this equation) & a longer extension length(which will give more droop) so I think they'd be a better fit. The regular TJM gold shocks(650GB120 & 220) ,on paper, are worse off in length than the OME recommended shocks(60018, 60020)!!!!!
 
I'm guessing the manufactures of lifts make the shocks the length they do so the average person can install their 'kit' & not have to worry about a spring coming unseated. For most of us on here, we'd like to get the most travel from the springs so we will, & know we MUST, use spring retainers or limiting straps. It's a CYA type thing on their behalf.
 
I'm guessing the manufactures of lifts make the shocks the length they do so the average person can install their 'kit' & not have to worry about a spring coming unseated. For most of us on here, we'd like to get the most travel from the springs so we will, & know we MUST, use spring retainers or limiting straps. It's a CYA type thing on their behalf.

Some of the hidden travel available is in the front. Try disconnecting your front swaybar. I picked up 15% of 4" more inches of travel by doing so with my setup.
 
Some of the hidden travel available is in the front. Try disconnecting your front swaybar. I picked up 15% of 4" more inches of travel by doing so with my setup.

I used some radius arm bushings for castor correction that are "voided" meaning they are more compliant. I picked up a couple of inches additional articulation (with sway bar on) using these

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W81730

When I did my shock measurements I removed the coils and put the entire weight of the vehicle on the bump stops (1G on bump stop). I do a calculation on the bump stop deflection for how much farther it will compress on harder impacts.
Slee's #'s on compressed are right there with what I found also and as Christo mentioned you must also address spring retention, sway bar drop/clearance, break lines, and diff breathers.
When/if I make springs they will be dual rate such that they will stay retained with the additional droop of our shocks. I'm assuming all measurements are taken from base of stem and center of eye. Bushing thickness is a small factor but should be close enough between everyone.

This is the first prototype shock I did. It is 15.35 - 26.68 - 11.33". It will unseat a TJM 50mm spring slightly. This pic is with tires on sitting on the ground.

IMG_2297.jpg
 
Dylan, that's some good info. So if I'm reading what your saying(you didn't really give any measurements) the OME L's are perfect for 2.5" lifts (ie. will need straps/retainers, but will NOT get crushed during compression)??? Can you give me the 'sitting on bump stops' measurement you got from the front and rear? I'd REALLY appreciate it!!!!
 
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TJM gold longs(650GBL120 & 220) are

FRONT--15.6--26.4--10.8"

REAR--15.7--26.2--10.5"

You might be ok w/them but might need 1" extended bumpstops. The OME L's have a shorter compressed length(which is VERY important in this equation) & a longer extension length(which will give more droop) so I think they'd be a better fit. The regular TJM gold shocks(650GB120 & 220) ,on paper, are worse off in length than the OME recommended shocks(60018, 60020)!!!!!

Yes I am going to extend them and retain the springs, the differences are not that much between the OME and TLM longs, I just didn't want to go with OME again.
 
Yes I am going to extend them and retain the springs, the differences are not that much between the OME and TLM longs, I just didn't want to go with OME again.

For bump I think just a 3/8" rear spacer will do it.
 
L shock OK on front?

Dylan, that's some good info. So if I'm reading what your saying(you didn't really give any measurements) the OME L's are perfect for 2.5" lifts (ie. will need straps/retainers, but will NOT get crushed during compression)??? Can you give me the 'sitting on bump stops' measurement you got from the front and rear? I'd REALLY appreciate it!!!!

Not sure if this info has been supplied elsewhere, but I was adding a spacer to my 850s the other day so I thought I would check this out. I took the spring out, disconnected the top of the shock and compressed the non-L shock completely taking it out of play. Then I lifted the truck up completely until the bump stop was compressed and the entire front weight of the truck was on the bump stop. My measure from the underside of the shock tower to the top of the lower shock perch was nearly 17.5".

So, from this measure, even taking into consideration the bump stop would compress even more dynamically hitting a hole, it would be hard to over compress even the L shock at 15".

Am I miscalculating this? Does anyone have a real world example of over compressing an L shock on the front?

Now, the back shock is a different story!!!
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