OME Medium Lift Install

[VFRMAN]

Just got my 2.5" Medium OME lift from Slee. Complete install not including caster correction bushings, or steering damper(yet) took about 3 1/2 hours. Spent an extra hour or so through out the week spraying WD-40 on every bolt. Maybe it helped, maybe not, but all bolts including rear shock bolts came out easy and nothing broken. Had they broke, this might have been a pain in the ass. Best tip I found is to print off Slee's instructions, punch holes in them and put it all in a 3 ring binder to have laying on the ground beside you. This makes it dummy proof as my firsthand experience has proven. Really a simple deal overall.

One question I do have after driving it for a day around town, 80mph on the interstate, and on some gravel. Even without CC bushings, it drives straight, feels safe, tight and 10 times better than stock in all instances. I was expecting something negative without the bushings after reading a million posts here on MUD. Nothing to report yet. I don't know if it's just because every truck is different, or if there is some situation that I haven't seen yet that will make it apparent, but it doesn't seem to need caster correction as far as I can see. It's going in on Monday for a caster check/alignment check, etc just because I know a guy at a shop that will take a look just to give me some numbers to look at for what they're worth.

The ride is way better than stock even with the truck nearly empty as far as gear goes. No big rear bumper, no ARB, no winch, no rack, basically stock for weight. I was expecting roughness somewhere, but nothing to speak of. Might be because I noticed my old rear shocks were shot when I took them out, but it rides smooth as can be now.

Slight stinkbug but again with no weight to speak of, that will be fine with all the junk that goes everywhere with me normally.

More to follow including pics. Thanks.

Brian

 

[Beowulf]

... but it doesn't seem to need caster correction as far as I can see.

Endorphines haven't worn off and you can delude yourself to believe anything. It needs CC as the alignment check will show you.

-B-

 

[cruiserdan]

Your vehicle may have had more caster to begin with. Mine had a bit more than most do. I ran a set of Downey springs for many years and I did not have any correction. Mine did not get "loose" until I put in 850's with a one inch spacer. I'm now running 850 J's with a one inch spacer and I have only OME bushings in it at this time.

Do a caster sweep and see where you are at.

 

[Tentsontop]

What shocks did you replace your stockers with? It seems the concensus here on mud is Bilsteins are the way to go. I talked with a couple shops and they were dead set that the OME were the best.

 

[VFRMAN]

Ome install, caster correction bushings

Endorphines haven't worn off and you can delude yourself to believe anything. It needs CC as the alignment check will show you.

-B-

Hey B,
Probably true. Trying not to talk myself into anything after only 30 miles. I bought the whole kit w/CC bushings and steering damper. Just haven't put them on yet. I wanted to see just how it rode prior to installing the bushings. (The damper was backordered a couple of days and just showed up tonight.)

I read about so many different results on MUD, it was driving me nuts. "I needed CC bushings, I didn't need them, I needed them but then it didn't help", etc, etc.....When it's all done, it will be right. I'm not cutting any corners to save $100 or anything. I want all of the benefits of an aftermarket suspension. Not just the quick and easy ones. I put about 40,000 miles a year on this truck and I want it as good as it can be. I guess it just surprised me that it didn't wander, even on heavily depressed asphalt. I really thought it would be all over the road without them. No vibrations at all either.

The one thing my wife noticed was that it seemed harder to get into. "Not sure why honey. I just replaced the shocks that were worn out and a couple of springs. Nothing major, go back inside."

Anyway, we'll see what the shop says Monday just for comparison, but in the meantime I'll get the steering damper on and it will see a couple hundred miles this weekend. Maybe the novelty will wear off and I'll notice some imperfections. I hope not.

Thanks again to Ben at Slee for suggesting the medium for my needs. I don't see me ever needing the heavy springs, but if I bulk it up with some more steel parts, I now know how to swap them super quick. I'm building a roof rack next week like I had on my old 55 so that will add a bit. Also, carrying my XR on the back will drop it a bit too, but I don't get much time to ride anyway so that's a rarity.

Attached a couple of poor pics. Nothing everyone here hasn't seen 100 times by now, but I really liked seeing all the different options before I bought my lift. Hope it helps someone else decide one way or the other for them. Thanks again.

Brian

 

[VFRMAN]

Shocks

What shocks did you replace your stockers with? It seems the concensus here on mud is Bilsteins are the way to go. I talked with a couple shops and they were dead set that the OME were the best.

Hi Jenny,
OME N73's and N74's. Never had Bilsteins so i can't say good or bad. Sounds like those that have them love them. Same for OME's so who knows. Anything is better than 143,000 mile, worn out stock shocks in my book.

Brian

 

[VFRMAN]

Your vehicle may have had more caster to begin with. Mine had a bit more than most do. I ran a set of Downey springs for many years and I did not have any correction. Mine did not get "loose" until I put in 850's with a one inch spacer. I'm now running 850 J's with a one inch spacer and I have only OME bushings in it at this time.

Do a caster sweep and see where you are at.

Thanks Danno,
That's the plan. Even the Japanese have good days and bad days. Maybe this one came off the line on a Monday or a Friday? Too much Saki, or maybe not enough? A welder is a funny thing and can respond differently to the mood of the guy under the helmet(or standing next to the robot on the assembly line, whatever) .

Thanks for the advice.

Brian

 

[LCPilot]

I like the organized garage, I could only wish.

 

[VFRMAN]

I like the organized garage, I could only wish.

Organized? You call keeping useless sh** in green tubs that you've had for 10 years and never used, organized? Even worse, I had to go buy more shelving to store the crap. UGGHH!

I appreciate the comment,(unless you were being sarcastic, which I had coming anyway ) but all but about 3 of those things should be on the curb. Someday...............

 

[Beowulf]

Also, carrying my XR on the back will drop it a bit too, but I don't get much time to ride anyway so that's a rarity.

Brian,
I'm not sure what an XR is but if it is heavy and you have the cargo area loaded with camping gear and the 2nd row full of big kids then you will notice the caster.

-B-

 

[VFRMAN]

Brian,
I'm not sure what an XR is but if it is heavy and you have the cargo area loaded with camping gear and the 2nd row full of big kids then you will notice the caster.

-B-

B,
That's kind of what I was thinking why I haven't noticed anything yet. I've got the truck pretty well cleaned out from its normal cargo so it's as light as it's ever been right now. Not how it will normally be driven down the road.

The XR400R weighs about 250 lbs, probably more. I use a rear cargo rack carrier thing I made and the bike has rode on the back of a 74-FJ55, an S-10 Blazer, Suburban, Silverado pickup, and now my LC. Even with stock springs it was "fine" but you could definitely tell the handling got lighter in the front. Expecting the same negative reaction without the CC once I load my gear up.

Hope for the best, but the bushings are in the garage waiting for Monday and a trip to the shop. The only reason I haven't just installed them is I want to be able to say I actually felt the difference once they were installed, versus not installed. I think everyone has a different idea of what's "acceptable" and I don't want a jitterery, wandering truck. I just want to know exactly what helped the problem. This should do that for me. "The vibration is not that bad" doesn't cut it. I want it gone if there is one. And I want this thing to go where I point it. Thanks again.

Brian

 

[valentine]

Brian, do you have a pic of the bike carrier? I'd like to make one for my Honda Trail 90 and would like to see how yours is designed.

Thanks

 

[VFRMAN]

Brian, do you have a pic of the bike carrier? I'd like to make one for my Honda Trail 90 and would like to see how yours is designed.

Thanks

I'll try to find one of my old carrier. I haven't finished the new one yet, but it's basically a 6' length of channel(wide enough to fit the tires of whatever size bike you'll be hauling), welded perpendicular to a 2" sq tube, 3/16" wall or heavier. Then I take a piece of . Oh forget it, I'll just send pictures. I'm no designer. I used what I had. I'll try to get some up tonight. Thanks.

You do have to watch your tongue weight. Whatever your hitch/bumper whatever is rated for. I've seen 2 bike models before but they're usually on a 1-ton Super Duty Ford or something. Trail 90 is nothing, but a street bike is another story.

http://www.discountramps.com/motorcycle_carrier.htm

This site is basically what I copied, only using material I had laying around. When it's all done, I'll send pics wityh the bike on. Thanks again.

Brian

 

[cc93cruiser]

I put about 40,000 miles a year on this truck and I want it as good as it can be.

HOLLY ....Where do you go? I guess if there is any vehicle out there than can stand all the miles a year it would definilty be a good ol' 80....

 

[VFRMAN]

HOLLY ....Where do you go? I guess if there is any vehicle out there than can stand all the miles a year it would definilty be a good ol' 80....

I'm a realtor and I work in about a 100 sq mile area of my house. Never fails when I drive 50 miles one way to show something, the next phone call is 100 miles the other way. My 80 is basically my mobile office. I've only had this one for about 2 1/2 years. When the weather's above 50 or so I ride my CBR to showings to offset (at least in my own mind) the horrendous gas mileage. Winter time it's all Cruiser. Definitely beats sitting behind a desk all day like some of my friends. What better way to make a living than driving around in a Land Cruiser all day? Not sure what some of my clients will think about having to jump up into it now with the lift, but they usually drive themselves anyway so no worries.

 

[VFRMAN]

Endorphines haven't worn off and you can delude yourself to believe anything. It needs CC as the alignment check will show you.

-B-

B,
Just had the alignment/castor check done tonight.

Didn't get before measurements, but now (still without the CC bushings):

Caster
LF: +1.0
RF: +1.5

With a bunch a weight in the back it still drives and handles great, tracks straight, stops good(still need to adjust LSPV), and overall is a major improvement. Since I have the new OME CC bushings just sitting here, is there any reason I would wreck a good thing by just putting them in anyway?

Based on my caster numbers above, will this only make it better(which is always my goal), or can I somehow go backwards here? That will really suck if I go through the headache of removing the arms and pressing in new bushings only to have it ride worse or something. Like I said, I'm happy with things so far, but if when the bike goes on back, things get squirrely, then CC bushings might be the difference?

What do you think? Just put them in and be done with it??? Thanks again fot the input.

Brian

 

[e9999]

your caster numbers are stil quite good. My truck was around +1.5 deg when stock. I put the 851s on with no correction. All was fine. Just recently I put in 1.5" of spacers. I am now at 22.5" in front with an ARB, sliders, roof rack etc. So I must be in negative caster territory now. No correction. Still drives just fine. The nice thing about the medium OMEs is that you can start there and add a spacer later on to go progressively higher if you want to test for caster issues and vibes.

 

[VFRMAN]

your caster numbers are stil quite good. My truck was around +1.5 deg when stock. I put the 851s on with no correction. All was fine. Just recently I put in 1.5" of spacers. I am now at 22.5" in front with an ARB, sliders, roof rack etc. So I must be in negative caster territory now. No correction. Still drives just fine. The nice thing about the medium OMEs is that you can start there and add a spacer later on to go progressively higher if you want to test for caster issues and vibes.

Thanks E,
At this point I'm going to hang tight and see how it goes. Maybe still a few endorphines in the blood. I'll be hunting in it now for a couple of weeks through a bunch of different terrain, and we have winter coming on soon. Ice and snow. Maybe that will add to something. Who knows. Really sick of thinking about it. You can drive yourself nuts reading all the different opinions on what to do. Great stuff to keep you thinking though. Couldn't have done it without MUD.

What a pain in the ass getting the steering damper off today. I couldn't budge it with a puller or a BFH and a fork. I finally had the alignment shop just cut it off. Amazing what acetylene is good for.

Thanks again.

Brian

 

[Beowulf]

What do you think? Just put them in and be done with it??? Thanks again fot the input.

Brian,

Spec is +3* +/- 1* (stated another way... from 2* to 4*)
You are below minimum.

The OME bushings will give ~2.3* when installed correctly. This should give you:

LF 3.3*
RF 3.8*
Above numbers are within Toyota spec. You should be able to add 1" spacers up front and still stay within spec and compensate for additional armor and weight you may be planning to add up front (winch, bar, dual batts, S/C, etc.) If you load all of that with OME medium springs you will have a low-rider. BTDT.

-B-