OK! so finally, really, for sure, what mods are truly necessary with 2.5-3." lifts?

[e9999]

Did you stuff the opposite side? If not, you may well not have achieved max droop. Unless you are certain you maxed the shock.

It is pretty tough to simulate max articulation in the garage with a floor jack.

no, I jacked up the side closest to the driveshaft, so the other side was indeed likely not fully stuffed. The shock was out to the point that the upper end of the thick lower part of the body was just even with the lowe part of the upper "cap". Likely all out since the wheel was off the ground. I don't think it would make more than 1/2" difference or so

 

[e9999]

well I guess that from the above it appears that running Js without caster correction is not at all likely to work out OK and that drops would be necessary with all but stock OEM shocks?

also that OME meds could be OK without caster correction but not that likely, and heavies even less so?

I'll proceed on the assumption that you really need to put in serious extra mods to make the Js useful, and that earlier indications to the contrary may have been miscommunication...

 

[Tools R Us]

Caster correction is necessary for all lifts to have a safe, good handling truck.

 

[TOY350]

Just put on J's and L Shocks and everything looks fine. The 80 wandered like an old 40 with no p/s afterwards. Put on the castor correction bushings and it is back to normal, what a huge difference. No vibrations and everything clears, I will be testing it further of course.