Oil Leak??
- Thread starter Brentbba
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #24
Ok - as best I can tell - It appears like it's coming from what looks like a drain plug? on the bottom of the front differential. There's nothing up front by the belts, there's nothing from the oil filter and the leak is forward of where I think? the rear main seal is.
Beyond what I know now, so will probably need to take it in. Is there a seal around the front diff. that could leak? Is that a drain plug on the diff. hub? It that's where the leak is, what type of fluid am I leaking?
Beyond what I know now, so will probably need to take it in. Is there a seal around the front diff. that could leak? Is that a drain plug on the diff. hub? It that's where the leak is, what type of fluid am I leaking?
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2003
- Threads
- 11
- Messages
- 631
Brent,
Is the diff plug lose?? Have you had the axles serviced recently?
The bottom plug is for draining and the one on the side is for filling the differential
Is the diff plug lose?? Have you had the axles serviced recently?
The bottom plug is for draining and the one on the side is for filling the differential
if its just one of the front diff drain plugs, you might just need a crush washer or tighten it up a bit....sure beats going to the dealer for $85 for a 2 min job....might be helpful to tell us what the oil smells like?? motor oil, or strong funk smell (gear oil)...
Brent, a diff leak would yield thick heavy gear oil. All comments below involve half banana activities that do not require you to change your golf shirt.
Keep in mind that things that drip slowly onto or out of the diff bell housing would then gradually run down the housing to the bottom diff drain plug, collect around it and then drip. Any overflow when filling from the upper diff filler plug on the front of the bell housing does this, as one example.
If you can't tell for now, my suggestion is you clean the whole bell housing with some kind of degreaser (maybe brakeleen if you spray it with arms extended). Wait a few days and look again for signs of stuff dripping down the diff.
Also, check the rear diff plate (back of pumpkin). There are about 8 bolts holding the plate on the diff. Look for a concentrated dark area on or around one of the retaining bolts indicating a leak.
Also, do you know where your diff breather hose is? It is a short black rubber hose attached to a brass nipple that taps into the top of the axle between the diff bell housing and the driver's side knuckle. This might be blocked causing the diff to become pressurized which is a problem and might yield the leak you have. There is a write up somewhere (tech section) on putting in an extension of the hose with some good photos (George Scolaro's site). You might just pull the hose off the nipple to see if it is blocked up. The nipple itself can also be removed from the axle housing and cleaned. Make sure you don't confuse it with the driver's front brake line which is just there, similar rubber hose, but brake hose is ribbed not smooth and does not tap into axle.
good luck
Keep in mind that things that drip slowly onto or out of the diff bell housing would then gradually run down the housing to the bottom diff drain plug, collect around it and then drip. Any overflow when filling from the upper diff filler plug on the front of the bell housing does this, as one example.
If you can't tell for now, my suggestion is you clean the whole bell housing with some kind of degreaser (maybe brakeleen if you spray it with arms extended). Wait a few days and look again for signs of stuff dripping down the diff.
Also, check the rear diff plate (back of pumpkin). There are about 8 bolts holding the plate on the diff. Look for a concentrated dark area on or around one of the retaining bolts indicating a leak.
Also, do you know where your diff breather hose is? It is a short black rubber hose attached to a brass nipple that taps into the top of the axle between the diff bell housing and the driver's side knuckle. This might be blocked causing the diff to become pressurized which is a problem and might yield the leak you have. There is a write up somewhere (tech section) on putting in an extension of the hose with some good photos (George Scolaro's site). You might just pull the hose off the nipple to see if it is blocked up. The nipple itself can also be removed from the axle housing and cleaned. Make sure you don't confuse it with the driver's front brake line which is just there, similar rubber hose, but brake hose is ribbed not smooth and does not tap into axle.
good luck
- Thread starter
- #28
Had a major service done about 6 months ago, so all fluids would have been changed out. Don't know if I've got a socket large enough to check the tightness of that drain plug, but I'll see.
Cdan asked the same question about the smell - none. Does that rule out gear oil?
Cdan asked the same question about the smell - none. Does that rule out gear oil?
- Thread starter
- #32
Update - down another quart so she's at the dealer today.
Looks like it's leaking where the oil pan and engine meet. Assume there's a gasket there that just needs replacing??? It that's it, it shouldn't be to $$$.
Any quick answer B4 dealer calls would be helpful.
Looks like it's leaking where the oil pan and engine meet. Assume there's a gasket there that just needs replacing??? It that's it, it shouldn't be to $$$.
Any quick answer B4 dealer calls would be helpful.
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2003
- Threads
- 11
- Messages
- 631
Brent,
Any calls yet?
Oil pan gaskets ? (I don't recall if this is a sealant like the tranny, or a gasket) this would probably be less money than the rear or front main seals. Kinda curious on the estemate for repairs.
Any calls yet?
Oil pan gaskets ? (I don't recall if this is a sealant like the tranny, or a gasket) this would probably be less money than the rear or front main seals. Kinda curious on the estemate for repairs.
- Thread starter
- #34
Eduardo,
No call yet. I'll post when I find out. Just hope I don't have to bend over w/o any lube when the call comes.
Staying cool down in SD? Hit 98 according to my $10 thermometer yesterday in coastal Laguna Niguel.
No call yet. I'll post when I find out. Just hope I don't have to bend over w/o any lube when the call comes.
Staying cool down in SD? Hit 98 according to my $10 thermometer yesterday in coastal Laguna Niguel.
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2003
- Threads
- 11
- Messages
- 631
I sure hope it is just the pan seals, should be less painful 
according to the cheapo sundial type thermometer hanging in the backyard patio, Escondido hit 106 @ about 1:00 pm
according to the cheapo sundial type thermometer hanging in the backyard patio, Escondido hit 106 @ about 1:00 pm
At least on the 97, there is no oil pan gasket per say. They use FIPG to seal both the upper and lower pans. If it is a leak in the lower oil pan, should be no big deal. The upper oil pan is quite a bit more involved.
My guestimate for the stealer to repair the upper, would be in the $600 to $800 range (took me two pretty full days), the lower maybe $175 to $250. If it's the lower, I would DYI.
Let us know what they say.
Rookie2
My guestimate for the stealer to repair the upper, would be in the $600 to $800 range (took me two pretty full days), the lower maybe $175 to $250. If it's the lower, I would DYI.
Let us know what they say.
Rookie2
- Thread starter
- #38
Still no info, so I finally called. Was told tech was out with the beast. They've put dye into the oil and will hit the rear main seal and oil pan when he returns with a black light to see if they can pinpoint the leak. Let's just hope it's not the RMS.
- Thread starter
- #39
Tech thinks it's the valve cover gasket up top. $365????
Says there may be some seepage from oil pan gasket - more expensive - 7 hours because trans has to come out??? I'll be the first to admit I can only change oil and O2 sensors (now), but it looked to me like at the bottom of the engine the oil pan was just held in by about a dozen screws. Education need here quickly.
Help! Need some explanations.
Says there may be some seepage from oil pan gasket - more expensive - 7 hours because trans has to come out??? I'll be the first to admit I can only change oil and O2 sensors (now), but it looked to me like at the bottom of the engine the oil pan was just held in by about a dozen screws. Education need here quickly.
Help! Need some explanations.
Brent, for some insight into the oil pans and replacing the gaskets check the thread Dan had on his truck just before New Year's if I remember correctly. His involved loosing a plug on the front of the engine but did require changing the seals on both oil pans (and then some 
). You can check the thread I had on this too as I had to replace most of these too and it was around the same time, a couple weeks later. Hope this helps
Mike R
). You can check the thread I had on this too as I had to replace most of these too and it was around the same time, a couple weeks later. Hope this helpsMike R