Oil filter...which one?

[Toledo FJ]

not sure why you think you need a nut for easy removal. The Trufilter is extremely easy to remove and service. I just use a little craftsman rubber strap wrench and it is all good. you can either leave the base on and just remove the top or if you want you can place the strap at the bottom if you need to pull the entire filter for some reason. I just leave the base in place, unscrew the top and pluck out the filter screen. It is really easy and fun (IMO) to service these filters. So no need for any nuts.

I called yesterday but missed them by a few minutes. I tried calling pure power to see what they say but they are out of the office until wed. due to a death in the family. I'll keep you updated as soon as I get some good info to share!

 

[NoHandleBars]

not sure why you think you need a nut for easy removal. The Trufilter is extremely easy to remove and service. I just use a little craftsman rubber strap wrench and it is all good. you can either leave the base on and just remove the top or if you want you can place the strap at the bottom if you need to pull the entire filter for some reason. I just leave the base in place, unscrew the top and pluck out the filter screen. It is really easy and fun (IMO) to service these filters. So no need for any nuts.

I called yesterday but missed them by a few minutes. I tried calling pure power to see what they say but they are out of the office until wed. due to a death in the family. I'll keep you updated as soon as I get some good info to share!

First off, strap wrenches can be a hastle, and often if have to go buy one (most people don't own strap wrenches) secondly, it's far more convient and easier to take off the filter via the nut on the TOP of the filter and you don't risk damaging it. If the strap wrench dosen't work (they won't produce as much torque as a normal wrench) then you have a problem. You use clamps on it, then that "lifetime filter" is done.

 

[Toledo FJ]

Well, I can tell you from personal experience that it isn't an issue. As I said before, it is very easy to remove and service the filter. I don't know how the design of the top nut works to hold on the filter, but I have only seen them on solid case, disposable filters. The Trufilter and its competitors have three peices. The base, the case, and the filter. I don't know if the nut design would work with a filter that comes apart, although I'm sure it could be designed to function with one.
You can get a strap wrench at any auto parts store or hardware store for less than $5. They are a good thing to have in your tool box regardless of the filter you use. You are only supposed to tighten the filter on using your hands anyhow, so it shouldn't be so tight you'd have troubble removing it. If you overtighten your filter, you'll crush the o-ring that makes the seal and you'll get leaks. I don't know about the nut design, so I can't speak on it, but I assure you that the Trufilter doesn't desperately need one because it works just fine as is. I've now changed the oil and cleaned the filter 5 times and it has been a breeze every time and I haven't had any leaks. DEWFPO pointed this post out to me about Royal Purple plugging the TruFilter. Check out post # 39 in this link :
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj-cruiser/221090-anyone-tried-royal-purple-2.html#post3324280

I know this doesn't provide any data, but the fact that Royal Purple suggests using Trufilter is one more peice of circumstancial evidence for their quality and effectiveness. I should be able to get through to Trufilter and or Pure Power today to get some real data.

I don't doubt that the top nut is a good design that makes things easier, but IMO making something that is already very easy, even easier isn't a huge improvement. Don't take that the wrong way... I agree that the top nut is a superior design for the type of filter you use. I just don't know if it would be applicable on these filters.

 

[Toledo FJ]

OOOPS! I didn't see that you were # 40 in that thread! I don't think we are arguing ! Just trying to get to the bottom of an interesting topic .

While I didn't talk to the compaines directly yet, I did do a little looking around about SS filters in general. I just found that they are fairly common in NASCAR, formula one teams, offroad racing teams, and racing bikes on and off road. But I will not rest until we get some solid data to compare against. I also found a thread on another fourm for some sports car and a woman had changed from Mobile 1 to Trufilter. She claims to have send samples of her oil after running each filter and she said the Trufilter was cleaner. She didn't provide any specific data, but made the claims nonetheless.

 

[NYCTRD]

OMG-I don't know if I've learned anything from this thread.

I have a feeling that since I use the OEM filter and change the oil & filter (not synthetic) every 3-k...I'm OK.

The K.I.S.S. philosophy!

 

[Brock]

best you can do is read a little information....study the options...and form your own conclusion. if you read too much or listen to too many people you will never figure out what is best....too much personal opinion out there. LOL

 

[Toledo FJ]

OMG-I don't know if I've learned anything from this thread.

I have a feeling that since I use the OEM filter and change the oil & filter (not synthetic) every 3-k...I'm OK.

The K.I.S.S. philosophy!

You're right, if you change the oil and filter regularly, you will be 100% fine and your engine should run as long as you want to keep it.

I haven't learned anything yet either, which is why I'm having various filters, including TruFilter, Lab tested. It will take a while to get results, but you should feel like you learned something when it is all done.

 

[NYCTRD]

My dumb opinion is:

If you change the oil more often (whether a high quality standard or synthetic oil) it';s going to get dirty. So why not spend 1/2 as much on the oil and filter and simply change it every 3-k.

I don't buy the "use synthetic and get 10-k out of it" way of doing it.

The same contaminats are going to get in there anyway, and the sooner they're flushed...the better IMHO.

Plus I remember the old daze of points, condensors & cetrifugal timing advances! In those days it was an oil & fileter ever 30k. And even my dicey Italian cars ran well over 200-k.

Toyota sez: The AT fludi should last the liftime of the x-mission.

I say: that LIFETIME may be doubled if you flush it every 50-k!!


PRECIOUS BODILY FLUIDS MUST REMAIN PURE-Don't forget Dr. Strangelove